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The mkiv Supra Owners Club

lust2luv

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  1. Thanks Chris. Not sure I trust my local Toyota garage to do it (captured some interesting audio/video on my dashcam when they were test driving it!). If I order the cylinders does anyone know if they come complete, or would I need to order seals separately? Same parts for NA and TT?
  2. Morning Chris, was hoping you'd respond. So you don't think it's the really noisy clutch release bearing? Would the master cylinder explain not being able to shift out of gear when it happens? As I don't have any local garages I really trust, would it be safer/not much more expensive to just replace the master cylinder? Sorry for all the questions, but I really value your advice (as I'm sure everyone on here does!)
  3. Hi, long time no post. I still own my (usually) trusty NA, which I've had for 15 years now. Wow, didn't realise it was that long until I worked it out. Anyway, here's my problem, my clutch pedal intermittently sticks down. It initially occurred after 3 hours queuing in traffic for an airshow, and seems to only occur in 1st and 2nd gear, usually when I change down to 1st. When it happens, I can carry on driving in that gear, but the gear lever won't disengage, so there's no option when stopping other than to stall, as the clutch has no travel or bite at all. Happens when the engine is both hot or cold. I initially thought it was either the master or slave clutch cylinder. Took it into Mr T to look over and they couldn't replicate the problem, couldn't see any leaks (other than a long-running slight leak at the front of the gearbox), so they recommended changing the brake/clutch fluid, which they said came out dirty. Wallet £144 lighter, the clutch pedal has no real resistance (felt normal before) and problem returns the second time I drive it (cold engine, so it's not heat related). I do have a very noisy fluttering clutch bearing. So is it that which finally needs replacing? Or should I be looking at swapping out one of the clutch cylinders? Don't want to do one and find it's the other! Any guidance very gratefully received!
  4. Might not have got the dimensions exactly right, but is this any good? [ATTACH=CONFIG]150899[/ATTACH]
  5. Can't you insist it's repaired, rather than written off, if the claim isn't your fault? May be wrong...
  6. Thanks Scott/Chris, that's more what I was thinking. I take it there's nothing obviously amiss in the above photo? (It's an NA BTW) Will have another look at it after work.
  7. Cheers for the advice. The noise is every time I press the pedal, sounds kinda like air being sucked in, not loud but noticeable.
  8. Checked the engine bay last night and one of the reservoirs is about an inch below minimum (the one marked by the fox's tail in the below pic) - that can't be helping I'm guessing?
  9. I would have done but they were just closing and I'd been sick all week and just wanted to get it home. Any other theories? If it just needs bleeding, why the raised revs and the wheezy pedal?
  10. I had my car serviced at a Toyota dealership last week (incl brake fluid change). When I picked it up I immediately noticed the brake pedal was very soft, seemed to make a slight hissing noise when pressed and didn't bite until pressed right in. Was fine before, doesn't feel safe now. Possibly related, the engine now idles really high (2K revs) whenever the engine is started, before dropping down to normal after a few minutes. I initially thought they'd left some air in my lines, but after a bit of googling am wondering if it's the brake booster? Any of you technical dudes have any idea what they might have done? Would like a bit of an insight before I take it back to them. Many thanks in advance.
  11. The claimed downforce of the stock spoiler is apparently 66lb @ 90mph. Road & Track article
  12. From what I've read your existing NCB should be valid for at least 2 years (FJ say 3) - FJ say they'll provide this proof of NCB to your next insurer. Don't know if it's worth the risk though.
  13. It is wireless 'n'. Can see Elite's and wireless adapters dropping in price. The Arcade should come down to £99 too, as it's had a $50 price drop in America. Personally I'd rather the new Xbox was available in white.
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