toyo rob

oh that look cool what they going for??

did try that but no change but that was before the swaping of two pipes from the rear actuator. got an hks ssqv - have had a little play with it it seems to lower boost when screwed all the way in but on all the way out shes only at the 0.9 also i forgot to say that shes full boosting from around 2k rpm. seems no noticible come in from either. she just boosts from whatever revs i am at = 0.9 at 2000. i think will try to figure it out a bit more but its so hard keeping an eye on boost/road and revs too much for small man brain. think i should pick up a girlie to do it!!!! Cheers Rob S

for some reason my side light capsules have actually melted!!! would it be better to just get a set of new front lights or take them apart and try and swap em

i'd go with chipmunk, last time i bought some it was 19" drivers and 20" passenger i remember cause i thought they'd be the same

My little boosting prob is still not corrected even tho i did find a couple of pipes the wrong way round and swap them. for those new to this heres whats happening (now) On acceleration she maxes at 0.8 then immediately starts falling down to 0.5 - in the early gears definately. When cruising, generally in 6th, put the foot down and immediate response to 0.9 and stays constant. now the funny things i have discovered; if i turn my bc off then, while under boost, turn it on she boosts to 1.18, which is what i was aiming for, but it starts falling and stops at 0.9. what i've done so far; i printed off ian c's seq section pics and have gone thru as many as i can and cant find fault. am waiting for delivery of new vac hoses from envy to check no splits. but on vis insp no obvious splits or breaks. i am just soo lost, just got no time to take it somewhere. info appreciated, Rob S

2. Toyo Rob - at least fronts hopefully both plus depending on price maybe even go for the TRD sets!!

cheers, am running 18" Blitz Rims at the mo. What do i need to measure to get the clearance, is it just the space inside the rim?? as for dough i know i need this so its a question of sorting out best way of doing it and getting it done!! Rob S

Got a full J spec system at the mo. Would prob be best to upgrade but would just upgrading the discs and pads be enough or should i go for new calipers? if i did go for new calipers where would i get them from - no one seems to sell alipers on their own. seems to be full brake kits only. got s/s brake lines already on order. Cheers Rob S

no just going thru a list of bits and bobs and saw them. just wondering when you would use such an item. ur answers were fine cheers lads. Rob S

When does an a/m wastegate become necessary?? Only got a few mods on mine but dont want to chan it too late!! cheers Rob S

i'm so stupid should have loked 1st!!! Its rse motorsport's soop. http://www.rsemotorsportuk.com/56834.html sorry

If any of you in the know fancy a challenge then this is probably going to be two fold. Found this at the back of the Max Power 2005 calendar and was wondering about the set up. Shes looks very meaty, maybe not everyone taste but i'm a bit enamoured. Can c certain bits but questions on the RHS intake, hks ssqv in know but what about those other pipes and little bits. the second side to this will probably be the fact that the picture is pretty shit and the scanner here is pants, will try at home but no promises so if anyone has a decent scanner and could attach a picture then it helps those answeing my questions. cheers Rob S

Just had my turbos reconditioned and been running them in nice and slow. Went back to rollin road on friday and discovered that even tho i got a Blitz SBC Spec R she wont boost more than 0.8. we did a check and we're sure that both turbos are running and working even tho there is no second rush at 4k. my only thought is somehow i've gone true twin without even knowing it!!! help would be gratefully received and much needed, cheers Rob S ps. wondered whether the sbc was broken so put a bleed valve on to see if any change, but none plus totally back to standard but its hard since its at 0.8 already. plus did break the connection between front port of the actuator and the vsv to see if she went into the red but no joy.

thanks for all the help lads, might keep the old one and have a closer look and see if some investigation yealds any answers as to why??. might even put a picture up, when not on the car, for you knowlegdable types to guess and play with. cheers Rob S

Right then, sorry it took so long. right there is pictures of the one on the car and pics of a new one bought the other day, which looks a heel of a lot smaller, but ordered with the part number supplied by Paul @ Miami. Tensioner 13540-46030 i need help here i think. cheers Rob S

i'm defo too poor to own a soop. saved for f***ing ages too buy mine and sold everything i had, including someclothes i was wearing at the time, to buy the car. then had to borrow to pay me insurance.... still drive a trucks during the week!! Rob S

just been under the car again this morning and theres a bolt and nut sticking out the bottom, is that right?? help needed, Rob S

ok got some pics. new pipe is yellow, i only need to change it cause it was straight and now has a slight kink.

i meant changed the belt

all i know is that the mech said it was an oil return pipe from the turbo the the sump. from what i can see, as i have a pipe in front of me (should have explaind it in the beginning i guess) it's a 4 1/2 to 5 inch in length about 1 inch diameter and a 30-45 degree bend in it. if thats any help it will be a miracle, cheers Rob S

guess i shoulda waited for a couple of days before getting mine done, just paid the 1k + to get my seals done.... DAMN DAMN DAMN. oh well its only money, or is that just what ~SHE says whenshe's spending mine????!!!!

does anone know where i might procure a piece of rubber, or reinforced silicon, pipe for the oil return from the turbo. just had the turbo's done as well as the stem seals and when the mechanic put the pipes back on a couple were so hard the split. he changed and subbed what he could but recommends i get the correct pipes. so any help would be much appreciated. cheers Rob S

Just been told that i will need to change my cambelt tensioner and idler pulley, i think he said, apparently its got some bolt configuration that means that it has to be adjusted manually. is that the same on all soop's or is mine 'special'?? isn't it all hydraulic nowadays, or is it mainly hydraulic with slight adjustment by me needed as the blt gets older, only just changed it!! cheers Rob S

seems to be working, but would still appreciate a yay or nay on whether its correct or not. Rob S

Liam, wasn't sure what the best time to call was so i've had another read and looked at the wastegate install on mkiv.com and think i might have got it this time. Still attempting the actuator set up, whether thats good or not not really sure. Is there any difference??? Anyway from a quick investigation today i now realise that it is a dual port actuator, yes???, and that a small non descript pipe goes from the top of the actuator to the 'front' of the turbo, nose end. guessing from the instructions i thought this is the pipe that i need so have connected the turbo outlet to IN and the OUT to the actuator. and have capped off the two ends that were connected in my photo. dont know whether that is right or not, if its still wrong give me a call anytime today, apart from 1.30 - 3pm, got an exam, and shout at me to stop playing with things i ahve no idea about. cheers Rob S