SilverMachine

I'm selling my 1994 Toyota Supra MKIV as I don't use it as often as I once did. It's now time to hand it over to someone else to look after it and enjoy it as much as I have over the years. Year of manufacture: 1994 Colour: Original Silver 199 (all glass out full re-spray to VW Transporter T6 grey Li7F in 2020) Date of first registration: May 2004 Mileage: 160,559km (99, 750k miles) Engine: 2JZ-GE naturally aspirated (non turbo) Cylinder capacity: 3000cc Factory standard W58 manual gearbox No. of previous owners in UK: 0 HPI: Clear Drives: perfectly MOT: August 2024 Car located in North Wales I am the only owner since importing in 2002 Lots of money spent. 2 genuine Toyota keys Toad alarm and immobiliser Cambelt changed it 2019. Brake line replaced Clutch line replaced Full body kit (Top Secret front, Veilside side skirts and rear fin) Rims: Ultralite Evolve 19" (sprayed black) Tyres: Rear 265/30/19 - Front 235/35/19 (all with loads of tread) New rear bumper with built in diffuser New stage 2 headlights 2020 Rear light conversion to LED (courtesy of Harry Moore) 2020 New genuine 3rd brake light Full ‘all glass out’ respray in 2020 - colour now VW Transporter Grey (Li7f) with black accents (wheels, mirrors, rear fin, wiper arms) New front and rear window seals 2020 New rear genuine heated screen 2020 New front genuine heated windscreen 2020 New alternator in August 2023 New Mishimoto radiator August 2023 All bushes replaced with polycarb Both subframes removed, stripped, sandblasted & painted Rear camera (viewed through head unit) New speakers front and rear (with blue LED lights) 1000W Edge amp Sub Woofer x 2 (with blue LED lights) Handmade MDF shelf in boot to hold the extra weight (also have original plastic boot cover with polystyrene sides including tools and jack & original spare wheel - selling with car) New digital head unit Stainless steel exhaust (also selling with the car - back box of HKS Super Dragger but needs all pipework replacing) Asking price £20k ONO All genuine enquiries, please contact me on 07967 811902 or email [email protected] Thanks for looking

Thanks Swampy442. I'll give that a whirl once I get it back home. Thanks Gaz

Yes he is. Top bloke. Already spoken to him earlier. He says just keep flushing the system 3-4 times to see if this sorts it. Thought I'd see if anyone else on here had a similar issue.

Thanks. It's got me baffled too, that's why I've come on here to the 'font of knowledge'

Thanks evinX, I removed the brand new thermostat from the housing and 'doctored' the old one (took the guts out of it, just leaving the seal) and put this in. Still did the same thing. When I turned the key before, it would idle normally with bubbles and whisps of steam from the top of the rad. Now it's a torrent of water straight up!

I recently bought a replacement rad after turning up for work like a steam train the other morning. Once fitted and filled, I ran the car up to temp and took it around the block to release any trapped air in the system. Within a minute I had steam gushing out of the top of the rad. After several hours, I went back to the car, took the cap off the rad and turned the key. The water gushed up and out of the rad like a 6ft fountain. Not sure why this happens now. I hope I haven't blown the head. No water in the oil. I have changed the thermostat thinking it was cooked. Any help would be grateful. Thanks, Gaz

Ok.

Just come off the phone with the approved glass company looking to replace the Front Windscreen and Back Window. They can source a front but their suppliers don't have a rear window in stock. Just wondering if anyone on here (or their suppliers) would be able to locate one. Many thanks in advance. Stay safe everyone. Gareth

Try and disconnect the alarm, then you know whether it's ignition side or fuel side that's giving you the problem. I had a similar thing with mine just recently. It would cut out after running for only 10 sec. Turns out it was a burnt out connection in the Fuel ECU in the boot behind the light switch. This might be worth a check too even though your fuel pump can be heard pumping fuel. I know how frustrating it can be not knowing exactly where to start. Good luck. Gaz

Thanks Squiffy, sorry for the delay in getting back to you. I've been away with work and then away on holiday with no internet access. I managed to spend some time on the 'old girl' over the least few days. I disconnected the alarm thinking it might be something cutting off the fuel, then my friend came over and tested the Fuel ECU. The dry connectors seemed burnt on the PCB when he took it apart, so he put the probe of the volt meter into the connector for the dodgy wire...and viola! The car idles. So, we looked on here for the get around on the 9v / 12v feed. Job done. Thanks everyone for your suggestions and help. The car is back alive! Gaz

***Update*** Having had a friend lean into the boot when starting the old girl, the fuel pump seemed to work. To make sure that there was enough pressure coming through and pushing fuel through, I managed to borrow a pressure testing equipment. It turned out that the old fuel pump only pushed through 1.5bar of pressure. I then bought a new 'Kemso 340LPH' Fuel Pump and fitted this. Now getting nearly 3bar of pressure...but still not holding on idle after turning over. Still running for approx 10 sec before cutting out. New fuel filter fitted too. Also checked dizzy and rota arm. Cleaned the coke build up on each contact on the cap and the arm in good condition. Creating a spark so all good there. Still scratching my head with this. It is probably something really simple as the car has been running for 8 months without any problems, starting on every turn of the key and running like it should. Any suggestions welcome or if anyone is in the North Wales area, please give me a shout. I would welcome the help. Thanks in advance. Gaz

No I didn't but fuel is getting pumped through into the boot, so I guess it's working.

Ok Scooter. I'll get some help and an extra pair of ears over the weekend. Let you know what I find. Thanks, Gaz

I've taken the spare out, undone the nuts and listened for the fuel pump on ignition. All hums as usual and pumps fuel into the back, so the fuel pump seems to work in sending fuel from the tank. I might get a bucket of fuel and bypass my fuel filter to see if it will start after checking the distributor cap. It seems to turn over and run normally.

I'll check it. Thanks