Mike B

how did you manage that? not really in a drive though...? if it was it must have been a drive through and out the other side! bonnet ok?

Was thinking exactly the same. My 4088 did exactly the same, but the t67 blade is much thicker - I use that turbo now.. you sure it's a t67? overheating... yet the 4088 melted on mine, yet the t67 is fine. just a shoddy turbo. I searched but was told no refirb possible on the DBB units.

need a flywheel for a turbo engine, please pm with details.

me niether unless you have a friendly dyno

been round the block with the housings, t67 works very well on the .86 housing, and it is a strong turbo. Tried a to4z and it was nothing like the t67 on the .86. I get full boost by 4.2 on a cast manifold, and hard pull from 3 upwards. Michel has an sp74 that seems to go well.

Been though a few but Ferodo 3000 have worked very well for me and are my favourite.. what a lot of race cars use (so i'm told) and I have no cold running issues at all.

If you have the BC setup for 1.2 bar then you will get steady pull to 4 then a lot of pull... out of the factory power is smooth. do you ave a boost guage so you can see what is happening. this would be a good investment long term anyway.

I ran a stock system with one cat, and an fmic, while it was fine in summer I got regular overboost creep in cold weather; 10 degrees and lower.

I just did a curency conversion fro oz, 2k for a clutch seems steep, and i still have to get the flywheel sorted.

From the pics is the flywheel a gonner do you think... can they be skimmed (there are some pins set in there)? does it have to be a perfect face...? is a worn face on the flywheel an absolute no no?

did I say that?.. my mistake, the pedal is very light, but it's quite aggressive at the end of it's bite. I get used to it and people in the passender seat hardly notice, but my friend took 3 goes to get it out of the petrol station. Chris know the clutch, he's driven the car.

I hear some good reports, but then I read this; so I was looking at other options....

Hi Everyone, I've lost my gearbox (I'm quite surprised to be honest - but it may have been a combination of harsh clutch and loss of gearbox oil) so it's off getting re-built. While the box is off we had a chance to look over the clutch and I've been recommended to change the flywheel and clutch. The clutch I'm using has been on the car for 40k so far and it's never missed a beat, although it's quite aggressive. Its a ferra metallic clutch and seems quite hard on the pressure plate and flywheel. So much so that it has worn the two quite unevenly, the surface is most cetainly very uneven and slightly indented. So I need some opinions; please have a look at the following pics. Clutch pads do look worn in real life.. - is so much marking and uneven wear typical on flywheel and clutch plate? - do I need to replace them? - what is the best clutch to get for a T67 at 1.5 - 1.6 bar (600hp?) I had a good search on the forum and while the rps clutch has the most press it seems that it's not all good. please - all opinions welcomed, A good clutch makes the car much easier to live with.

cast, cast, cast... lol i have had both and rate them on performance as well as durability... they are also smaller and less of a heat radiator... put your foot down at 2000 on a tubular and nothing happens, on a cast power starts to bite and it makes for a much better car..

Very impressive... looks fanatastic, like a full resparay. I hope the 10k bodyshop bill was not accident repairs! all the sweeter a thread as I dropped all the bits at the bodyshop off for mine yesterday... can't wait

My BL cracked twice, swapped it for a cast manifold, much neater and the spool is much, much better, and throttle response is also far superior. I would never use a tubular again! I saw no upper end power loss either, as that has been mentioned about cast, but sub 700hp, I don't see it as an issue at all.

I'm having trouble living with a 4" system. Peak noise is not too bad but the motorway drone is too much. Was thinking of ways to silence it, but there is no room in the front half of the exhaust......

how are the afr's? - couldn't see them on the chart and do you use a 3" box?

really? ok, back to the drawing board... that's good.. it's probably the release bearing as I suspected.

OEM Flywheel.. on the way out possibly. Running a ferra-metallic paddle clutch.. I have an intermittant rattle when the car is hot. Thought it was a release bearing but when we had a preliminary look inside we found that there is 3" of play on the flywheel. Is the OEM toyota a Dual mass flywheel? Is it possible to put an aftermarket solid one on - and how does that effect the performance - rattle and bite?

Thanks Guys, will try both... I had no idea that the cutting service was so cheap, that's excellent value for the cutting.. I'm stunned... theat will be plus materials as well I take it...?

I am... I could make something in fibreglass, but I had thought that there must be some on the shelf somewhere..... maybe not! cad cam may be over budget!

I've been looking for a pair of alloy support legs for a rear spoiler / wing, but I'm having no luck finding any.. spent hours trawling through google.. Anyone out there have any experience in this, any contacts.... as I'm struggling to find anything!

that small turbo better be made out of alumantium, or it's going to have a hell of a headache!! hoping to be proved wrong though. Jamie... I can think of no finer use for for your personal fortune... as it's been a while since you exploded a diff, hope you haven't lost your touch!!

I was thinking that I may be best to take it to a gearbox specialist, and ask to view all the bits that are not well. Expensive month, as I need a new front control arm (ball joint failure) and then need to do another geo set, as well as a new set of 3555 disks (£400 a pair!).