Mike B

Thanks matey this is what I thought - I tried the double sided foam tape that has worked before i de-greased and hair dryiered but as soon as the heat goes it popped straight off. I'll search for some 3m automotive acrylic plus tape on the net. any supplier out there you know of?

Does anyone have any paint friendly options?

Does this mean it will damage the paintwork of I need to take it off in the future? and where would I get some from?

Hi Guys - I've put some veilside original spats on the old girl, but as you will know they need siticking / fixing to the rear bodywork. I've tried the stickiest double sided foam tape I can find - made sure all surfaces are super clean - but the spat has too much stength and it pulls the countour out, and hence the spat off the panel. What does everyone use?

So are mine - wouldn't they be the same as every one elses?

Thanks Chris, The answer is.... yes I am dumb! I'll have a look for them.

Call me stupid, but having a good look around the stock suspension on mine and there are only very limited alignment adjustments - From what I can make out it's possible to adjust the camber front and back and toe on the fronts. The lance article recommends caster on the front, as well as toe on the rear - I just replaced the control arm bushings on mine and see no way to alter the rear toe... Am I being dim?

I live in the countryside - and ended up with a beautiful '96 TT6 sup on on my head this time last year - a mile from the house. I even slipped over running back home in a pair of trainers! (adding insult to injury!) There is NO grip whatsoever right now - Salt - Water - Mud from the fields - and no heat to dry anything out. I'd be better off swapping the GY F-1's for a set of ice skates. Be careful out there!!

Honestly It's not there - there's a diagram on the back of the cover and it's not listed. there is another box in the engine bay next to the batt. The headlight fuse is shown on this case cover but not the dipped beam! Hmmmm.....

bump! come on guys, one of you must know if there is another hidden fuse box somehwhere - otherwise I'm off to tail through the deapths with a volt meter!

Hi Guys, Where is the dipped beam headlight fuse? It's not in the fusebox by the acellerator pedal, and it's not in the main box in the engine bay next to the radiator, the headlight fuse is there, just not the dipped beam. Anyone have any idea? I'm really scratching my head...!

I just bought a pair of these from the envy Guys, cost me 200 squiddlies, it always happens...

Hey Michel - You told me that I wouldn't go single and I've started shopping already!! This winter could see you hiding from your neighbour from hell that asks far too many questions (ie me)!! Hope you are well, Mike

They are from a private guy - I have no idea where he got them from.

They were off a guy who said he's split a kit that he'd bought a while ago. pictures arn't pretty! I'll send the guy this thread when you've finished!! fire away!! all opinions welcome.

Thought I was getiing a bargain, I think It's turned out to be a bit of a white elephant - Are rough aftermark spats salvageable by the workshops, ie can they bog and smooth them fairly easily - do they all look quite rough out of the mould or should they be smooth to start with, They are far from smooth and the upper edge waves quite a bit - they are far from perfect, but the guy says that his body shop wasn't fazd at all.. I'm just trying to weight up the options before these horrors go back to where they came from! any opinions?

Thanks for that - I used to have Apexi N1 suspension and to be honest if you had welded everything together it would have better ride quality. It must have been track suspension, and it had no drop, wheels used to come off the ground on uneven driveways etc,, and it used to leave the road (fly) over short sharp drops at speed. The springs that are on now are soft but they are better - just looking for a good recommendation as the ride height has to go up! The nurspec has a few dents in it! Thinking about the H spec from Tein, they are .4 drop and only slightly stiffer than stock, as everything else it 1" drop minimum but as you say stiff enough to rattle your fillings out!!! Still if it's not right they are far from expensive so They can be changed/sold on...

I need some new springs for the standard shocks and need to know what is low and what's too low. Standard suspension is fairly low anyway so I understand, and there is a wealth of springs out there offing drops of between 0.4" to 1.5". Has anyone any experience of dropping their cars on uprated springs at differing ride height drops... I need to make the right choice!! This is the car now on what I believe are chopped stock spings. Very soft and very low!

Here's a write off for you! This was mine last November, I can safely say that I go into Doddry old lady mode when it rains now... I'm sure your car will be far from a write off!

I'd be in for an afternnon of kart action! as long as mine had a single!

Thanks for that - When you say the position can be altered, does that mean that, by using this nut, the pedal can be lowered closer to the floor, or does it mean that in effect you can pull the activation point of the clutch further towards the top of the clutch pedal travel (ideal scenario)? shouldn't the position of the clutch pedal be in line with the brake? or will it all be obvious when I have a look?

Spoke to Nic and he said it made a massive difference but he didn't say anything about how difficult it was to do, - someone else did it for him - and I don't know if he changed them all...

If it is going to be an arse - and I'm still hoping someone had a positive experience changing them - are there some bushes that are a must to change, and some that can be left in place..?

The car I have right now has a clutch biting point close to the end of the clutch pedal travel. It's a pain in the arse because you have to push the clutch right to the floor ever time you change gear. I had an uprated clutch fitted to my old sup and the clutch went from normal to early bite point when I got it back. The new car has the same problem, the first few inches of travel are nowhere near the putting pressure on the clutch plate, then the travel stiffens, activating the clutch. My local mechanic tells me that "the bite point on Hydraulic clutches can't be adjusted" he may be right but is there an adjustment somewhere else that can or is he talking bollocks, or is he right!? any advice greatfully received!

Regarding suspension bushes - My local mechanic has the hydraulic press, but is reluctant to start the job because, and I quote; "it looks like a bloody nightmare - how many are there? - They'll probably all need to be burned out!" do these OEM things come out, or do they need to be burned out? anyone out there with practical experience of doing this? and anyone know if there is any difference between Jspec bushes and euro/US spec bushes? I doubt it - but it's worth asking!