Mike B

I get .6, but then put it up to .8 with the 1st turbo mod from the US forum.

I have a used HKS FMIC going on ebay - it was on my car when it came in from JP, I have since fitted a bigger cooler with larger pipes from my old car. http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=8059472832&rd=1&sspagename=STRK%3AMESE%3AIT&rd=1

Thanks for that - I had been thinking about one - It's quite a lot of cash though - when on bpu it might not be needed depending on what everyone's concensus is £300+ does that sound about right?

Hi Guys, I'm running a very big intercooler on my 6sp TT, with pretty low intake temperatures compared to the setups I've had before, and I'm hitting fuel cut at 1.15bar in 4th and above. My question is, with intake temps hovering around 7-30 degrees will I be safe raising the fuel cut to 1.21 bar on 440 injectors? I'll be raising with an emanage that Thor installed when I was running TTC mode. The emanage will be set back to zero now I am back on sequential. I have no wide band afr guage, so I need someone to tell me where 440 injectors will max out, - will I be safe raising the limit to run at 1.15/1.2 bar with such a cool airflow? (cooler feed will need more fuel at 1.2 bar as I understand..?) I've tried a search but cant find any specific info.

Bushes were bought from MVP, abut 110 for front and back. I planned to do front and back, but only replaced the stabilizer bar on the rear (they wore early on my old sup) and left the top and botton arm rubber to make the back end a little more complient to gard against the dredded non-recoverable oversteer. On the front I canged them all, with new track rod ends as well and the car is pin sharp - I feel the road through the wheel, and the shoks and springs inspire confidence in the rough roads around here. They are stiff but not unpleasant, good enough for spirited driving, and best of all they never let the car feel like it is falloung out of the sky which coilovers tend to do on very bumpy/up and down roads... I would still like to try ebach though - everyone rates these too...

I have had super hard apexi - waste of time off track, then kyb shocks kyb spring - again too soft and too low, then just got full set koni and tein s-tech. I put poly bushes on the front and did the lance w alignment. Very impressed, ride is lower, but very balanced and has the best handling I have driven so far, although I don't have massive experience. IMO normal shocks and normal looking springs are better for rough roads than the coilovers which seem to have very little extension on rough badly sufaced roads...

Terry, Can you define heat soak for me? - uncontrolled rising of intake temps? What is a max safe intake temp?

Yeah, my last car was a bit clunky, but was better - more miles but a 96 facelift, no real play as such... It was a different box - on this '94 6th is down and slightly across. I drove Terry S's and his box was sweet as a nut - his whole drivetrain was taught... and like my old facelift his 6th was straight down... Just wondered if the play is a model characteristic or there is a point of wear we can look at... it's annoying driving in traffic...

Always a point of annoyance with this sup - the drivetrain is not as tight as I would wish, Take your foot off and there is play in the drive train, put power back on and you can hear a little clunk as it power takes back what can be best described as play.... Gearbox shifts fine (now it has V160 in it), no obvious problems. Are there any common points of wear on the drivetrain- or is it likely to be all over wear. Car has done 72,000km. Could it be something to do with the clutch - as the noise seems to come from that area... I know there are sprung systems in the regular organic clutches - could one of these have failed...?

They look like heavy duty copper pipes sprayed black.... (xcentral heating pipes?)

That is something I would be seriously interested in, but I bet it would take quite a bit of additional setting up... Looking forward to seeing the aftermarket versions and some dyno plots! - if it works well it must be one of the biggest developments for the big single community...

OK, I thought it was this... so why don't we see this tech on big singles- if you can get more low end power from a big single that would be the holy grail, right?

I have emanange and still get boost cut in 6th, pulling hard in paralell setup. Kind of miffed that Thor didn't get it right first time but since then Ian C has helped melook around the program and there is the abaility tofix it - you just need to know how to do it without blowing up the engine! BTW Ian C (sorry for the hyjack) - I'm finding it hard to get the old serial port plugged into any laptops - the connector I have (small serial) is stone age. Is there a softwear patch that lets emanage connect via usb/firewire? I tried to install the firmware update, and the 1.13 update but with no luck it was missing some kind of internal softwear record...

I've had 2 sups, both large FMIC's both single decat, and the latest one I struggling with overboost. The old sup used to struggle in very cold weather, but the new one has a serious retention problem! With the old small fmic on it used to spike on the first push, but then used to be fairly stable, making me think it was a lazy actuator. Since the new FMIC(very big one) it really struggles at venting the xs. I'm running in parralell, and planning to go back to sequential - I think this will help, but do many of you struggle with overboost on single decat? Perhaps my actuator is tired... perhaps it's just a combo of large fmic, cold weather, and parrallel...?

Out at the Toyota Dealership today getting track rod ends for the old girl and happened to pick up a brochure for the new Rav 4 for the family. The most powerful engine is the new diesel - 4 cyl, 2.2, 177 brake, 400nm trq. It's on boost according to the dyno at 1.5k, using a variable nozzle turbo charger.... -I know it's a diesel, and it only revs to 3 and a bit, but what's a variable nozzle turbo? I have an idea.... to do with creating boost earlier??

I have a set of 19's with chrome dish, the dish is stong- but the alloy (laser cut on mine) is showing some damage/corrosion - and it can't be re-touched as they are chrome/alloy mix and the refurb place says there is nothing they can do with them.... I haven't taken the best care of them, as I can't spend my entire life cleaning them... They look good though!

Ah Hah! yours is on stilts too!! maybe this is normal... My old springs (kyb) must have been very soft - they were longer than the tein, yet sat much lower. I bet you can get a couple of fingers between wheel and arch there...?

New Koni's on the car and new tien springs, I was worried that the ride height on the tiens may be a little low, and so set the koni's on their regular (upper) height. The car looks like it's on stilts now compared to what it was! I can get two fingers between the tyres and the base of the arch on the front and rear. Can anyone one (susp meastro Chris perhaps) what a good, sensible, low ride height is - as I read in one of Chris' earlier threads that too low will throw the mechanics of the job right off. What's the right height? am I ok to lower forther than two fingers gap... as it was at least 3cm lower allround before...

I Had a similar problem yesterday with a cobra alarm on my old mans R34. Tried to replace the battery - alarm wouldn't work, just kept going off and couldn't bypass the immobiliser. I ended up ringing a cobra installer who said that if you hold the two buttons of the fob after you have fitted a new battery the light flases and after 10 seconds or so the light changes, try it again and it worked - the fob and unit on car had re-syncronised.. might be worth a try...

Thanks Ian - you are a star!

Thanks Ian, I kind of figured - a wideband is a good idea if you are doing anything... and a good idea anyway! I'll get a copy of the Bell book - should keep me quiet for a while! short term I may go back to 0 and use 98ron on sequential. does that site have a softwear download section - and is it something I would have to buy? I see they have an update for ultimate v1.14, but I will only need the standard blue softwear, no? cheers Mike

Cheers Matey

Jeez, I put my name down for the 1/4, it looks like it's turning into a contest! I get the feeling my clutch will be comming back in pieces. Be good to see some of the big cars on the strip though...

Thanks Alex, Is there any resorce that I can learn from - any web pages that give tutorials and explanations, and any sites that have to operating softwear as a download? cheers Mike

The Fcon was not a pro - it was the early version - it was totally untunable by anyone in the uk. It was fit for the bin! When I bought the car I had hoped it as running at least hybrids with the F-con,but it was standard ceramics - or at least I think they are! I wanted to run the car safely on 95 ron fuel, and on parralell which is why I wanted the car dyno'd and set up with emanage, I thought it might be risky running both together. As it happened we did have to change the plugs on the dyno runs. I'm running a big FMIC, and twin intakes- one for each turbo, single decat, and nur spec, and an HKS evc7. I just want to learn more about afr's, and if it's possible for me learn more about the functions and features for the future...