Mike B

Hi All, This has run my VVTi for the past 5 years and thanks to Ryan who has managed to tame my FBW throttle, this is now up for sale... pics here; http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=160745714031&ssPageName=STRK:MESE:IT#ht_500wt_1219 The full install was priced at £5600 including install costs, with the HKS gear costing; HKS V pro ECU HKS Knock Monitor HKS VVTi Loom HKS rotary Dial £3200 It's plug and play for a VVTi.. not sure about the standard non VVTi supra, bur you could either re-wire, or buy the different loom.. It's a very sophisticated bit of kit - self learning amongst other things and I have changed between GT35R, GT4088R and T67 without remap.. it performed flawlessly. Originally set up by RCTS - Reg Riemer - from canada it is now unlocked and the map can be tweaked or re-written.. currently up on ebay.. I'm told these are still expensive and sought after.. :-) email - [email protected]

I must admit.. I did like the finish on my existing dash, but I had no idea what it was.. Flocking.. ah ha! that's what it is called.. I had wondered! There are electric ways and diy ways.. I found this; http://www.frost.co.uk/flock-colour-trim-kit.html which look like it may do the job... I would like an alcantera/or mock alct finish ideally, but I am cautious of it going around corners and I think that it may be a pain in the backside.. Anyone out there done alcantera and care to share your results / issues? Now that I can catalog everything from the syvecs, and all the engine critical systems have safety feedback, there is no real point to all the dials bar EGT and AFR I'd say. And if I really want to be flash I would put a car pc in with the syvecs softwear, but then if I suspect a problem I can just plug the laptop in in a second anyway...

Thanks to the syvecs install the christmass tree of a dashboard that used to inhabit the car is now redundant and when the controllers and monitors have been removed there will be quite a few gaps! So I'm tempted to go back to stock and finish it as tastefully as I can.. My current dash is finished in some kind of spray on suede.. I have done some searching on here but not really found anything that takes my fancy, so what's you favourite style of dash?

the biggest difference is the upper end torque, car feels like it has legs over 4k, and I've never felt this before... Even though the bottom end does not seem to be too different the throttle response of the new FBW makes it feel alive and much quicker on the uptake...

here it is.. old vpro - and it took 2 shots to get it to this... also at 1.5 bar

I used to have the GT35 and did found it tailed off at high revs, even with a tubular manifold.. The more I look at other peoples dyno sheets the happier I get with my own... at 3500 rpm Im getting around 200hp and 270ft/lb, which is well infront of most of the 61's and smaller tubbies, even better than stock, and 617 at the top end, I have an active exhaust to set up which I hope to kill enough of the drone without killing the bottom end I hope.... happy days... it all seems to have come together nicely! I must dig out the old vpro dyno sheet as a comparison...

Update for you... T67DBB syvecs s6gp 1.5 bar max Engine Specifications: built July 2005 Assembly fully balanced. BoostLogic Lightened/Dampened Crank Pulley Eagle H Beam Steel Rods ARP 625 Custom Age Rod Bolts ARP Mains Studs Reground/Balance Crank Clevite Bearings New Modified Oil Pump New Modified Front Main Seal Custom Breather System Sard Oil Filter BoostLogic Billet Tensioner Bracket Power Enterprise Timing Belt HKS Valcon Inlet Cam HKS 264 ex Cam Supra NL Uprated Valve Springs ARP Head Studs Blitz LM Front Mounted Intercooler Blitz 1.3 KG/CM2 Radiator Cap Custom Aluminium Header Tank Carbon FMIC Cover Fluidyne Radiator GReddy Aluminium Top Hose Aux power steering cooler Aux oil cooler Turbocharger & Induction: BL T67DBB .81 ar dual ball bearing and water cooled Anaught Cast manifold. Coolingmist variable water/meth injection HKS 50mm Wastegate HKS Racing BOV Exhaust: BL 4" Downpipe/Midpipe BL 4" stainless steel Exhaust TNX :-)

The Fcon was a very good unit, and when we mapped it the results were impressive in term of what it can do / power and precision of the unit, but the problem was that it still had to rely on the VVTI stock throttle which works fine on the stock setup, but it is my honest opinion that with a single the throttle was the weak link; the stock ecu would take data from all over the engine and would cause throttle cut. You cant by-pass it and you cant tune it, you cant datalog it, short of replacing it there was nothing you could do.. If you were not FBW throttle then I would say go for it, but remember syvecs does a better job of T/C so you then do not have to buy RLTC or similar... I have a full HKS install if you are interested ;-)

everything... but for me the most important is that is controld the FBW, bonus is that it has an incredible trac system as well. It can be set up to do virtually anything...

thanks for the kind words... time to clean her up now and fix a few last niggles. Is there a group mission on...? i did enjoy it last time and I have a set of slicks on spare wheels, not that they would have been used last time tho! This has always been my goal for this car.. top end is a bonus, but something that is responsive was always the key for me. I had a GT35R turbo on it to start with, but on a tubular manifold. Noticeable difference when I changed to the cast, but honestly the biggest difference of all was the syvecs, It's made everything I have tried so far look like a joke in terms of response; it honestly feels like a completely different engine. I owned a BM 540i manual for a while and the supra is so much more responsive than that now, and way more powerful at lower rpm... also made me chuckle - the speedo is DEAD accurate.. I checked it with gps everywhere and it's absolutely bang on.. the old one was accurate some places then out others..

Hi All, Having owned this car for 5 years It's had a few different turbos on it, cast and tubular manifolds, been mapped twice (original Vpro was adaptive). There have been a few cars on the board to take this ECU now... some positive results so I understand.. I picked it up yesterday after a S6gp install. The main reason for doing this was the PITA stock FBW control, which was not tuneable, for that matter not even by-passable... I have to say that the difference is not small. It's STAGGERING. - throttle response is instantaneous (the old system must have been hugely delayed to smooth things - or maybe just lazy) - the car now makes an extra 70hp, without any fuss at all in every gear, - the power curve is much more gradual - take a look! quite incredible... like an n/a car! - spool is incredible - in 6th I get positive boost at 1.8k in 6th, with bucket loads at 3k, perfect for loafing around on the motorway. - the knock feedback means the engine is totally safe - the traction control is so much more effective than the Racelogic, it seems far more adaptive, progressive and controlled. - egts are much lower - I have full data-logging ability - vvti control is fully integrated into the ecu ..the list goes on... IT IS A DIFFERENT CAR... quite remarkable. I gave her to Ryan as an aged, asthmatic grumpy old girl, and she came back reborn. Very impressed... well done chap. If anyone owns a VVTI then I'd say it is the first thing you should look at, but then if you own a vvti you will probably know this anyway..

Hi All, It's been a while since I have been on the forum... yet recently my old girl was taken from her resting place and dusted down. Right now she is in the hands of Ryan. Part one is a full VVTi Syvecs install. I had so many controllers, yet such poor control over the throttle and engine I await to see the results with baited breath. Really hoping that this ecu will do the car justice. VVTi was always a struggle for many, and my old system was no exception. From what I hear the system and Ryan's knowledge in how to take advantage of it will be worth every penny. The chance to control every aspect is something that was a pipe dream when my car was originally built up. Part two will be a geometry session with Chris after I manage to free up or replace all the ceased suspension cams. After that it's all smaller jobs, but looking forward to getting her back to peak spec. Roll on 2012 and a new lease of life for supy! happy new year one and all...

Hi all, Looking for an intake air temp sensor (car is a vvti tt) Also looking for a set of rear front lower suspension arms (the ones that control toe in and toe out..) near and offside.. Pm please?

Yeah, I didn't see the damage before the weld, but i will fit a new one when I get the opportunity. I cleaned the seam, over and over, used an inter spacial tooth brush, and I could feel a void in that section of the seam as the bristles of the brush got stuck in it. Filled it with sealant, wiped it clean. Tested it yesterday and voila, no leak anymore. Happy days :-)

Thanks chris, I'll be interested in the syvecs too. If I bring it to for geo you can try it yourself. Dude, mechanic took the sump off to cure the leak, dropped a wrench on it when it was on the floor, cracked it welded the crack closed them welded a plate over it. Well done for spotting, you were the first!

I was going down this line myself ;-) there is no seepage at all when cold... I'm good with sticking stuff, having worked with resins and the like for many years... I agree with your cleaning regimen 100% Thanks C, will be coming to you for a quick geo setup when ryan finished with the syvecs install... your bilsteins & springs still feel fantastic.

nightmare :-( but I will get it sorted...

So I take it that the only way to stop this leak is to take the sump off and re-seal?

dead right... that's the front of the block where you see the pulley wheel, and the oil is dripping off the oversized anti roll bar, but it's being fed from above. I know.. It must not be as windy under there as it looks, or the airflow is pushing it directly onto the bar. There is no oil forward of the block (where the arrow indicates) anywhere. and zero oil on the main pulley wheel either; dry as a bone. When I clean and dry everything and run the car there is no leak, when I run the car at 4k for 20 seconds and have another look there is weeping on the lower (sump) casting side of that joint between block and sump casting.

actually the wheels is dry as a bone.. the oil leaks onto the lug then runs down the base of the engine... Actually - my mechanic had the sub frame out and the sump off - I visited it mid surgery. As there is no oil above the seal at all I'm pretty sure its this sump seal. It's not pas fluid - these are fine and not leaking. it's that joint.. I will do.. is this a sure sign of front crank seal?

yup, joint between block and sump. I know. My heart sank when I thought it was coming from the crank, but cleaning and testing pinned it as coming from the joint between block and sump casing, where the arrows point. The pulley wheel and everything on the block is clear of oil and dry as a bone.. only the sump casting has any oil on it.

Hi All, I have found the oil leak I have been chasing for some time. It's not somewhere that is easy to strip, seal and refit. removal of subframe, sump tray etc. Any ideas? There is no leak at idle, only when the car is at speed or load. Too small to ignore, not big enough to be a major issue aside smell and gradual oil loss. any advice?

Just gone with Livingstones, single T67 declared, 5000 miles limit, 38yrs no claims, no points £390

I replaced a worn stock set with some polyurethane ones.. Vice and sockets.. Like Chris said, awful Job, and to make it worse the poly bushes were a poor fit and the geometry would never settle.. Ended up taking it to Mr W where he fitted stock arms and geo-d it properly.. The faff of doing stock bush replacements on your own sounds daunting...

For the sake of the thread and future readers I did test all fault codes held in the vvti ecu, using the thread "how to check the diagnostics codes" There were 2 codes stored; 52 - you've taken the front knock sensor off and I can't hear the crank revolutions 55 - you've taken the rear knock sensor off and I can't hear the crank revolutions they listen all the time, so you cant unscrew them, sneaky devils! :-S edit... when I catch the piggy bank it will be a syvecs transplant.