Mike B

It gets tracked very rarely, if ever these days, and the pas cooler sat right in front of the mocal oil cooler, so I may try and find a workaround as suggested.. The existing unit is leaking somewhere inside the cooler, hard to see where from.. Thanks for you input as always..

Hi All, My car has a (now leaking) aftermarket oil cooler for the PAS system. It's a louvred system - 30x30cm and it has breached.. Would I be correct in thinking that it has breached because the PAS system uses a lot more pressure than a standard oil cooler? (which I think this is) Do you have any recommendations as to a a cooler that would do the job, any that you have used so far? or will a standard oils cooler do the job? :-)

Thankfully all my fronts are 100%, I had to replace both front arms for the car was bought from terry with poorly fitting poly bushes that were so loose it was a joke. It's a challenge I am actually looking forward to, but may well end up in brute force and slicing.. Not relishing the cost of a new set of arms though :-(

listening with interest...

I have all the nuts off, though one did shear the bolt.. (first pictures) All of the bolts are ceased in.. really? but grease the shaft for sure... just not the nut you suggest.. yeah, I hear you.. would still like to try and save them, or at least try. Thanks for all the prices too.. good to know when i go shopping! M

Hi All, Thanks for the tips.. Yup, I will have a go when I get back to the car at the end of the month - a friend is lubing them every day :-) fingers crossed... I had hoped to be bake to prise enough of a gap in the subframe to get a cutting blade into said gap to cut only the adjuster bolt, thus saving the bush. This way, when I get the arm off I can use a press to try and get the severed adjuster bolt out of the centre of the bush. It may well be the case that I have to get new arms though. Anyone got any top tips as to where you have bought these from? I've been off the scene for a while... yeah I split a one on the front some time ago.. nightmare. I sincerely hope I don't damage the hub :-S.. what do you mean by ball joint covers, may I ask...? Also the best grease to put on these cams? is copper grease a bit lack lustre.. I want these things to not stick in the future.. what is the best grease to use? Lithium? tnx again...

Hello All, Currently in the process of removing, regressing and refitting all the cam adjusters on the car before I take it to get the geo set properly. All the fronts came apart easily - have coated in copper grease (should this suffice?). The rears however are a different matter... all of them are stuck! Last year I had movement on 3 of 4, but this year, none! I have also sheared one of the cam adjuster bolts trying to get the locking nut off the end... Rign now if no success on attempt 2 I'm looking at having to cut these out and source replacements. I will spray them with penetrating oil for the next 10 days and try again, but failing that, it's cutting time. Have any of you had experience of this? and any top tips to offer? It also looks like I will have to separate the arms from the hubs where the white arrows are.. any top tips for these too? warm regards, mike

Up on Ebay tonight.. http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=160745714031&ssPageName=STRK:MESE:IT#ht_500wt_1219 I have used this for the past 4 years - really solid system...

It's up tonight... http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=160747059630&ssPageName=STRK:MESE:IT#ht_500wt_1219

Yes, just the same as a normal controller....

Up on eBay tonight everyone...

whoa!! that is pipework! it's a rather inelegant solution, looks like I'd have it off on the first speed bump too... wonder how much quieter it is..? I just did the math (assuming I am right) area of 4" = 39.43 sq inch area of 3" = 22.18 sq inch area of 2" = 9.85 sq inch so to get the same circular surface area as a 4" system you would have to use nearly 2x 3" systems.. My mid pipe has cracks, corrosion and damage (BL 4" pipe) :-( may be forced into doing something...

hmmm.... not sure... like jamie says... the idea of a box is to have lots of room and damping, so you need quite a space - also DP will be insanely hot, not sure how a mo in there would cope.. certainly be a bigger heat source near the engine (which is not ideal) Wrapping is to keep the heat in and get it further back to radiate out? I had a MASSIVE custom back box put on mine and it is a lot better but the drone remains.. Ideally I would like a 2" silenced pipe alongside the main and the just have the valve switch the two.. What is your side pipe there??

I have an active 4" valve in mine and it does help with the drone but I would still like a mouse mode.. Keep looking at those divert back boxes. I don't see where you could find room for a midbox on a 4" system. The ex is already to lowest point on the car. I'm actually thinking about a 3" - used to have one on my old car and I liked it a lot.

sorry all, sold and paid for...

for sure - will get some pics of the side panels.. a good chance the holes will be in a completely different place though...

Hi All, Again, Syvecs install has freed my KS-3 from the car.. although the Syvecs did use the knock sensor and cable in the install. So what I have here is the KS-3 controller and power cable - to fit it you would have to buy the Bosch knock sensor and cable it to the unit which uses a standard mini rca jack plug. Charlie or Ryan know exactly what sensor it is, and probably the cheapest place to find one. The KS-3 will map your knock as you drive and you can set it to visual and audio alarm if reaches your set limit. They are £235 new, so as it is, £100 delivered? more info here; http://www.phormula.co.uk/KnockDetection-KS-3.aspx

Hi All, I have also taken this out of my car as the new ecu seems to have solved any cooling issues I thought I had! It's a complete kit (also includes nozzle) and is programmable. I did not have or feel I needed to use the serial cable, just programmed using the dials.. comes with; - Tank - pump - pressure pipe, front to rear (tank was in boot) - controller - relay - injection nozzle (the larger of the two) you can set minimum pressure cut in (I had it wired to boost pressure via silicon hose) maximum pressure flow point flow rate.. you'll need some wiring to route the cabling how you like it... £150? plus £10 carriage

To be honest getting in and out is more restrictive, but it's nothing you don't get used to. Sitting inside (I'm 6') with a full helmet on then it's snug against the top crossbar, but the footwell - you do not notice the down tube AT ALL. its well out of the way...

Pretty sophisticated boost controller which has served me well over that 5 years.. now redundant thanks to a syvecs install. The new model (eBoost 2) goes for £500+ It's a very good controller, - 3 boost settings - gate control - over boost safety cutout - poost pressure display - warning systems - peak hold - boost level display It's ready to install - need a connector or two on the solenoid, and some piping to run from manifold to controller, but all cables are there... all manuals and physical dimensions on; http://www.turbosmart.com.au/product/e-boost-2 Looking for £200 delivered.

Hi All, I've decided to become a little more mainstream and have uninstalled the bolt in cage that I have had in the supra for the last 4 years. Bought off Ebay for £650 used it was a family insistence after I made a mess of an old supra many years ago. The cage will fit with 4 carpet cuts, a few bolts and a cut section of rear interior trim (if I find replacements you can have the trims I used) Have a look at the pics of it in my Garage - pretty unobtrusive, but quite substantial. If you want to do it properly then you should really weld, but bolt was my preferred option... If anyone is seriously interested I will assemble it outside the car and get some full pics for you. All in all pretty easy to fit (a few tips go a long way). Looking for £500

ps.. if you want a pic of it installed - look at my garage on one of the dash shots you can see it hiding behind the driver's roll cage bar...

Hi Matt, you have first dibbs! wed it is...

as above... sorry needs abs sensors to know what the wheels are doing.

Hi All, A new Syvecs install has put a old friend out of commission... RLTC with Launch control.. £500+ new.. fully working - and I can confirm it has been a very important part of the car for the last 4 years!! It has a analogue controller, as well as comm lead, and the only odd thing is that the back of the controller was removed to get a flush fit with the dashboard - it looked very neat and tidy when installed.. Up on ebay this sun night.. £300 for a quick sale? http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=160747004436#ht_4533wt_1219