Mike B

call map cargo in Bradford Ask them to give you a TNT based airfreight on dims and weight I ship from china and the far east all the time, airfreight is expensive, so is sea freight on small loads, TNT is way cheaper and 5 days..

I've done quite a few setups over the years.. Difference between the tubular boost logic manifold I had and the cast manifold I ended up using was dramatic. Throttle response and spool time was far superior, and car still makes 617 on cast.. Had GT35R - was lacking on both manifolds over 5k but had pretty fast spool Had GT3088R - almost as fast spooling as the 35R and fast top end, but like everyone's the hot blades melted even with mild egts Ran .68, .82 and .96 exhaust housings and every turbo has run best on the .82... Spooling on .82 was close to the .61 and had almost the same legs top end as the .96 .68 was asthmatic top end .96 was so laggy it was unusable. Now run T67DBB .82 on cast, it's probably too powerful top end, but is quite quick of the mark with Ryan's map on the syvecs. If I were you I'd go 61 or 35 on .81, cast.. My 2p Good luck!

I ordered a new switch and loom, hopefully plug it back in will be the simplest fix..

Hi All, Following the removal of RLTC I have found the source of my ABS gremlin after the light popped up. My car was set up with a trac control button delete - rewiring it into the launch button on the RLTC rotary dial.. The launch button switch was wired into the loom on the trac button, but to be honest I'm not exactly sure what the method of switching was. Right now I am trying to get a track switch and loom to plug in, but in the meantime does anyone know how these systems are set up? I think it's just two wires; an bridge that cycles on and off that the ecu interprets... I found the following wiring diagram, but cannot see the trac switch on it at all... http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/attachment.php?attachmentid=38425&d=1151077984

Not that I am an expert, done some track days on slicks, road tyres, dry and wet, different courses and 3 different sups, few different setups.. and a fair amount of driving on rougher country roads.. - Poly bushes, for me, sketchy and mine constantly moved the geo as they were not a good fit in the arms.. - Wheel offsets and size.. my final wheels are 18 inch and as close to stock offsets as possible - they bring much more reliable predictive handling.. 19's were a disaster.. I also have a set of of your wheels (lexus) that I keep the slicks on.. they were good wheels on the road too. - cw susp is the best I have had, and used 4 different setups. I've had stock, some kind of apexi, KW.. the Cw suspension is excellent... esp on rougher roads. Current car uses; Trd diff Updated roll bars front and rear Stock bushes Cw susp 18" super light wheels with stock offsets When cw set up the geo the handling was immense.. I had use of an R34 at the time and I have to say I preferred my car in many ways... A bit aggressive on road when pushed, but then it had a lot of grip, so it didn't suit the rougher roads too well as it's not soft enough to smooth out everything under load... The slicks (and I still have 3 sets bought of a bttc team) are immense! They do start to overload my suspension on a warm day though and they will overpower my 355 rotors under heavy use. Their grip is astonishing, and the wear rates of the slicks.. on track they last 10x longer than road tyres which just melt! Cold they are liability, I can see why they are illegal on the road.. lol I'd also say.. alignment for me; crucial. Good geo set is night and day!

Fuel issue - sorted - I had chopped out the aftermarket FPG, the syvecs was wired to it.. plumed it back in, hey presto, happy ecu.

Perfect - thanks Ryan. Yup, I'll get the volt meter out and check the RR abs - I think the problem may be the sensor on the hub, as I had to rip all the lower link arms off, and the hub was moving around a lot - wire may have been disturbed. Also - fuel pressure - I took out all the sp gauges (fuel, water and oil), tracked their wiring back to the aftermarket sensor feeds that came in from the engine bay and removed them. It's possible you used the aftermarket f/p sensor I have into the syvecs? I had assumed you used the one in the stock loom... Now I have the pin I will track back... The car will crab to the alignment shop first, for geo - I replaced and lubricated all cam adjusters. Manual for syvecs is very good - I am just starting to learn - time is the issue. If I ever bought another car, I would be tempted to put this ecu in just for the sake that you have control and diagnostics over all that happens with it. I struggled with this MKIV on HKS locked map and no access to mapping softwear for years. Blindly fumbling around with niggles I could neither diagnose, pinpoint, or cure... so frustrating.

BTW, once understood, this syvecs system looks like it is a mine of information about what the car is up to... the more I understand the more impressed I am...

Hey Wez, I found the pin assignments, and it looks like mine is the same as yours, front wired in on only one wheel; So I can forget the front left wheel issue as it is not connected... but it may be the rear wheel.. see this shot; rrspeedv is in line with the other readings, but rrspeed is not there, which suggests a break in the signal wire in the rear right abs sensor (or failure of the unit).. you think? Also, can you take a look at this for me? I'm getting an engine warning on the fuel pressure; Car runs and idles fine, but I have not taken it out and loaded it (besides probably in safe mode anyway) but how do these numbers stack up against yours?

Ahh.. now that is making sense.. I'll track those down and start looking. I notice that on yours front wheels are both clagged on together, meaning that he's used only one input for both, so your abs system has 3 feeds? What is interesting on mine is that I have a feed voltage for both rears, but for one of the rears but when I drive the ecu does not calculate a speed for it.. It does on one and not on the other which is curious! I need to check on mine to see if he has done the same... There is still an abs ecu on the car right? and this will take feeds from these sensors too and also bring lights onto the dash when not working? I could still do with identifying the wires out of the stock loom so that I can test all 4 sensors for output, as if the stock ecu is using all 4 there is potential that I can make it happy but the stock ecu will still throw up. Thanks wez for spending the time to enlighten me, it is much appreciated! Syvecs is a very impressive bit of kit, a real learning curve, and as frustrating as it can be I am enjoying learning more about the way the car works... I'm also getting a fuel pump voltage warning, which is odd as the car runs fine.. I'll be looking at that next session too. It's fantastic to get the car cleaned out and all the old wiring removed.. well worth the price of a few niggles - it was a right mess before.

I wondered what that white box was for! (no I did not cut it out!) wez -- where on the syvec sorftwear would it tell me what pin was assigned to abs?? I have looked but could not find... hence I thought I could track it from the other side - the stock loom... also - on syvecs, in wheel speed on Smon what's the difference between rlspeed and rlspeedv presume it's; rear-left-speed (increases and decreses with actual speed) and rear-left-speed-voltage (stays at 5v at idle) but how does the ecu use this?

Hey everyone.. need help identifying the abs feeds Ryan has done a sterling job fitting out the car with the Syvecs, but when I got home I decided all the other controllers that had been bypassed were coming out, and believe me there was a lot. Taking the controllers out was one thing, but the birds nest of wiring took me a day to strip. Between RLTC, Nitrous (never used by me) water injection, more hks redundant wiring that you can imagine, I pulled shed loads of it out (as carefully as I could!). It's now good and tidy, but did fear that I could have snipped something critical... thankfully car started on the nose, but did throw up an ABS warning.. Syvecs softwear tells me that it is getting no feed from the front left wheel, so I need to check the wiring back from the ecu to find the break or determine if the sensor is duff (I had pulled all cam adjusters off the suspension and may have disturbed a sensor). Trouble is, I cant find which wires are the abs feeds. Ryan is working in Greece for a few days, so not cannot be sure which pins he used on the SG6 ecu install, but If I can track it down using stock loom then I'm in. The trouble is that this loom (see pic) looks nothing like the vvti pinout diagrams I have pulled off the site and used before...? so can anyone tell me if there is a pinout diagram for the VVTI looms in the pic, or any good suggestions as to how I find the abs feeds?

I'll look for it in mine when I start her up after rebuild, but she's always been pretty smooth as far as I recall.. good to know though..

so what actual difference does it make? is it noise only? harsh vibration? and can you check visually? If I did not have a 4" exhaust then perhaps I might notice a difference.. but I can not say that I feel my current supra is any nosier than any others I have owned pre facelift and post.. current is 60k 1999 vvti..

I could not make my mind up either, so I had both sprayed when the car was resprayed...

Only if they make padded ones!

What will I sit on then? :-(

mail me on [email protected] incase I do not get to the forum in the next few days!

Hi All, taken from my car.. bolt in (or you can weld if keen,) easy to live with, does not get in your way at all... padded in foam, finished in an alcantera type material, seams are not seen when fitted, easy to bolt in.. cost me £650 £500 - delivery possible - £25

Hi All, trying to source a set of rear control arms, lower set, front and rear... :-) M

Wow, just stumbled on this... A piece of art! Well done, so impressed..

Update... I have tried grinding the heads off the adjusters - my plan was to make a tool to extract the bots from the threaded side with a custom tool, but the nuts are so hard and so inaccessible I decided that I was wasting my life and made for the grinder and a cutting disk. From two are off.. but I need a slightly bigger disk for the rear as they are more inaccessible. I tried a reciprocating metal blade and saw, didn't touch the stainless bolt.. just blunted. So now I need to find 4 arms, or 4 replacement bushes.. and 4 adjusters.. I hear someone may have used soarer bushes from toyota to replace. The thought of forking out £450 plus to remedy some ceased bolts does not fill me with joy... I'm on the hunt now...

Had mine fitted a month ago.. The ecu and data logging is very impressive, as are the safeties.. but for me, the FBW throttle control TRANSFORMED the car. Night and Day. It also released a fair chunk of cash in redundant controllers.. he also found an extra 70hp at the same boost. The car is completely different, I agree - a fantastic bit of kit.

Thanx Wez, something small and neat should do the job!

Thanks Chris.. I did not know that auto rads had an inbuilt cooler.. :-O I have an aftermarket fluidine radiator in her at the mo - so keen to keep it. Sounds like I should get another small cooler to save me replacing the rack further down the line.. I will mount it away from potential stress.. good point. and I'll check to make sure it is in the return line (pretty sure it is) M