Mike B

That looks lovely… all sounds concept though :-/

fronts are pilot sport 235/40 r18, rears eagle asymmetric 265/35 r18. I bought these partworn; was a lot cheaper and also gave me the confidence to knock the sizes down. I normally run 245/275. but tried 245/295 recently and it was so bad it gave me a bit of faith to knock it all down to the current setup. stock is 235/255 as I understand..

That said, if I had not fond such a difference with the small tyres I would be selling for sure. My moral is, when it comes to sorting wheels and tyres for your car, I'm a slow learner, for 10 years has only just taught me; bigger is most definitely NOT better.. :-/ ..unless perhaps you are on track in the summer...

Hi All, Just thought I would share - I've had supra's since 2003 or so, and this summer started to fall out of love with them. I guess as I've grown older I've appreciated and picked fault with the subtle details more than the raw performance, chasing handling and civility more in the passing years. My winter's project was to get the car 100% for sale next year, and so I've been in and around it for 3 months now getting a long list full of niggles sorted, all the little things that you never get round to sorting. Last week I dropped her off the stands and took her out, and I have to say that aside curing all the niggles that used to annoy me, the car handles and tracks better than anything I can ever remember driving, I was absolutely gobsmacked, and after being convinced I was selling I'm now in a completely different place. For sure, niggles in the map, the odd leak, frayed hose, untidy loom, badly positioned electronics, broken exhaust seal, cleaned and tidied engine bay etc all help you appreciate the car more, it was a singular thing that I did that completely transformed the car for me… Wheels and Tyres. Off came the Lexus 18", 245/295's and on went a set of 235/265 on my Ce28's with the 48 offset. The difference is colossal. The handling is beyond precise, it's pin sharp - car feels brand new. It's exact, immune to cambers, potholes and rough roads. Handling is so much more readable, as every movement is now not a squirm through inappropriate alignment, it's feedback you can read. Driven softly the car is an effortless cruiser - SO much less stressful to drive. Suspension feels softer, yet turn in and poise are brilliant. I'd wager that in a drag race the bigger rears would have more bite, but the syvecs sorts them out, and the handling so much more progressive that pushing on is so much more enjoyable, so much less worrying. It's the most engaging car I have driven in a long time, and I know it sounds like a cliche - but I can think of nothing else that could do what it does, certainly nothing i have had the privilege of driving. I have never run anything as small as 265 or 235 on the car before. When it came to me it had 295/255. The wheels and tyres may look small but the handling now so incredible I could never go back. Now if Ryan can sort way of getting 60mpg out of it, I'll be even happier ;-) …though I wonder if the smaller tyres will help! ha ha

I have his car, bought it from him a long time ago. Have not heard from him for a while. I believe he had an upset with the forum over something stupid, but he was out of the supra scene at that point. He bought a Monaro for while - no idea what he is doing now.

Is there a silent valve I can use capable of dealing with a t67? Looking to completely silence it... Re-route it to the intake? Thanks for the info..

Hi all, I've been quietening the car down over the last 2 years and I'm done with the bov noise, so I've removed the hks bov and blanked it off. Surprisingly I'm getting chatter on lift off. I thought I was hearing things! Is it really chatter from the blades? T67dbb Is there any way around it? A silent bov that will get round the chatter?

Well done.. good to see the old timers going strong, the board is all the better for it! - - - Updated - - - just looked at my avatar, I'm 8 years in! lol

I should also say that I had a good look through the forum for the tps diagram or the vvt diagram and could not find it.. Nor anything that resembled this problem exactly...

Hi all, Just got the vvti throttle sorted courtesy of Ryan an the syvecs ecu and the little bugger is back to defy me again! Car ran faultlessly since, bar a few self induced niggles, but last week it started and sat at 4k on idle. Since then I could not get her to idle under 4k.... I plugged the syvecs software in and the voltage coming in to the tps feed was 4.5v as idle, which (I could be wrong) seem high, but when I blip the throttle the voltage only climbs when I get the pedal past a certain point, and when I release it does not come back to 4.5v, infact it settles back higher, at 4.9,& then 5.2... As I understand on the vvti bodies there is a physical side and an electronic side. The electronic side mirrors the physical side. I'm not sure on this, (depending on what you say I may ask Ryan) but the syvecs takes a feed from the vvti throttle from the sensor that measures the physical, then sends a signal back to the body's electronic side to open the throttle to the desired amount. Could it be my sensor that is faulty? That's where my logic is taking me... If so, does anyone have any idea where it is on the vvti body and if it is swappable? Thx all

Thanks Chaps... sourced :-) on the road in a couple of days. Wonder if the blow by slowed the spool? I hope so! Mike

Hi All, I had some blow-by on the manifold turbo gasket on the T67, so stripped it all down today. This was the total remains of the gasket... (pic below) where would I get a T4 non divided gasket quick sharp? Whifbitz are on holiday! regards to all... :-)

I'm running 617 on 650. 47psi fuel pressure at 1.5bar boost. It's close to the limit.. (which is happily protected by syvecs)

Guilty!! in my defense it was Ryan that told me it was a 5v feed... Problem started when when I retired the gauge, I also retired the sensor's power supply that the ecu was using... It's true... before stripping it would have been an easy test to save a lot of faff. I'm glad I sat and read more before picking up the spanner. Saved me a good few hours of scratting around on my back.

Fixed! I WAS looking at the relative fuel pressure which was showing an inverse reading of the fuel pressure because... The FPR was both wired incorrectly and sending no signal to the ECU, so the ecu was only showing the outcome of an equation where one half of it was zero.. Interestingly I had the sensor wired in such a way that it fed .85v to the ecu on 5v, but did not function properly. This was enough to extinguish the warning light, but also did not register in the softwear... After quite a bit of faff I found the correct wiring instructions for the FP sensor from SP. Then, after I rewired, I could still barely get a reading from the thing. I was mulling over whether to order a new one, when I looked closer at the specs I found it was a 12v feed not a 5v feed like everything else... so I rigged the feed to 12v and.... Ta da! 47psi logged in the ecu. Road test below. (blue is fuel pressure) She's back to her normal savage self :-) All this thanks to the new ECU, logging ability and knowledge in the form of Ryan and Wez (thanks guys) to stop me wasting time chasing dead ends. If you have a choice, get one, this and the CW susp and geo set are the two best things I have done to the car so far.

update... Ryan looked at the logs. The FP feed I am looking at / logging is relfp (relative fuel pressure) ie the difference between fuel pressure and manifold pressure, FP1 which is further up the data feeds is zero, meaning that the sensor is not wired into the correct syvecs port. The odd thing is that when I re-wired it I had thought I had wired it into the correct port.. enough to make the warning light extinguish, but I must have done something else.. so the focus has shifter back to the ecu and sensor interface. It's the only thing I had changed since ryan's install came home, so logically it's bound to be right... I will chase later this morning :-)

So was mine... I thought this too, but the cable that connects this pump to the battery (via 2 relays) is a super thick amplifier cable. It's very heavy duty. I also tested voltage running and ign, and was not seeing anything anything unusual.. 13v running, 12.2 idle.. me too..

Car has been laid up since Ryan mapped it in Jan, I've had a lot of jobs to get her tip top again and not a lot of spare time to do it in, so progress has been slow. That said, now I am on a mission... The Svyecs is putting in a rev limiter at 4500rpm, so I logged it to see why, and after I trawled through the logs I found the culprit.. I have to say that once I got my head round the softwear and manuals the Syvecs is an exceptional bit of kit. Only a few session poking around but I'm appreciating it more and more.. Anyway, enclosed is the log pulled.. I have hardly any fuel pressure :-( 8.5 psi dropping to virtually nothing on boost. Thankfully the ecu is going into protection, I do think this is an essential thing to have on any tuned car.. So I started to play.. - Vacuum line is attached and I have logged sucking blowing on it and fuel pressure remains completely unchanged. - Pressure regulator adjustment makes no difference. I logged winding it in and out and there is no change in fuel pressure. - I felt and squeezed the inlet hose to the regulator, it's under hardly any pressure. I could nip it and stop the engine. So, Fuel pump... - be surprised if it was this, as ryan fitted a new one when mapping, and mapped it at 620hp - Fuel pump wiring is solid - direct from the battery with two relays, all checks out. - Fuel hoses in tank, possibility of a split. Fuel Filter... - Replaced with a new unit in January, so I would also be surprised if it was this. To be honest I am at a bit of a loss, and I think it may well be down to a bad fuel pump. Aside buying and trying a new one, Im not sure if there is any way i can test the pump. Makes noise and pumps fuel, but I suspect not enough... any bets? any suggestions? and incase I want to do some reading, anyone suggest a high pressure, high volume fuel pump? I'm pushing my luck with 650's at 620 hp.. need good pressure and flow. Used to run 2x walbros and now running one pump (the pumps that ryan used in his race car).

I have an issue too, similar but think the limp mode is in place, ever after I clear it.. Like you, I sat and figured out how to log, pull them and now I just need to figure them out! Having the tools is one thing, knowing how to interpret them is quite something else ;-)

interesting reading...

exactly! that pesky loom end / switch interface or the wires themselves, and how they work... constant current that is broken, or on/off/on/off if only life had a time machine like my mac ;-)

Thanks for that Ian - yeah, I'd seen that thread already.. It shows the feeds back to the ecu for the wheel sensor speeds, but what I would ideally like is to find either a full wiring diagram for it (had a good trawl through supraforums - nothing that looked like mine) similar to the ones we have for the main ecu's.. There seem to be a lot of different abs ecu varients.. What I need to solve in my case is the wires used to cycle through the abs mode choice, or the wires that plug into the trac control switch.. I thought I'd plug that freshly bought trac switch in to one of the empty loom connectors and it would be an instant solve... not so... it doesn't fit any of the connectors back there at all... :-( ...if only I had paid more attention when i removed the RLTC unit... doh!

Hi All, I have been trawling round the net for a while trying to find a wiring diagram for the VVTI ABS system but I have not found anything to help. Aside getting a better understanding of the system I have an immediate fault that I want to fix... My problem is that I have an abs warning on, but with the stock ecu replaced by syvecs there is no way to get an error code from the ecu to narrow the fault. Ryan did the install, and before I started stripping the old RLTC out there was no error light... So I am 99.9% that it was my removal that caused the issue. There was only one wire that was connected to the system. The launch control button on the rotary dial switch was wired in to the stock system to cycle through the stock TC settings; Snow mode - Standard - TC off - Standard (you know the one) The stock TC button had been deleted and presumably the connector used for this function hijacked to be wired into the RLTC dial. Foolishly I removed this extension wire to the RLTC controller before remembering which part of the loom it connected to and I am pretty sure that this is where my problem started, and where the solution lies. So I decided that a quick fix would be to get a new button and just plug it into the stock loom where the stock trac button would be... But I have 4 stock loom connectors, none of which come close to fitting the Stock TC button switch, and I cannot find a wiring manual anywhere on the net... I have some pics here of the systems, can you cast your eyes over them and give me any clues as to where to start? A wiring diagram would be ideal, but I have not been able to find one anywhere... In the pics below you will see a shot of two ecu's, - 1st pic shows the controller on top of the stereo cage, heater controls? - 2nd pic, screwed to the transmission tunnel is the main abs ecu, right, with the accellerometer sensor in the forground... This has some butchery from the loom, extensions of wires that have now been blanked - the last pic shows three unused connectors; big white one (top), two smaller black (middle), and at the bottom you will see the female end of the tc control switch I have - it fits nothing! doh! I need to understand how this all works, - does the vvti have a different tc switch to everything else? - is there a wiring diagram for abs that anyone has come across? - does anyone know what these male loom end connectors are for? ...I've come to the end of what I can achieve on my own :-/

me too.. I'd like to learn! :-) The VATN I looked at (VW) was pretty basic engineering, but then, I'm no expert.. we need to find a wrecked porsche 911 ;-) Sure Ryan will have a spare few sockets on the back of a syvecs :-)

The thread is making me chuckle! Just out of interest, what will a stock 2 stage turbo build boost at on the first turbo at 2k? I didn't see much before 2.2k.. Anyway, the amount of pressure built is not the be all and end all, it's also the gas it can flow.. so a tiny turbo may spool to pressure fast, but that's not to say that a larger turbo will be producing significantly less hp at a lower pressure.. Certainly in big gears.. so aside 1st, 2nd gear pickup, once you are in 3rd and above I have always found a lot more pull than stock and small turbos on the 35's (61's) + When I left the forum a few years ago I expected to come back and read threads about variable vane turbos.. I heard porsche were running one in their production 911's some time ago, and thought it was only a matter of time before the holy grail technology filtered down. I've had a diesel one off my van and enjoyed poking around it, simple and effective, just wondered if anyone had played with them, or why aftermarket people have not copied..