Mike B

That's hilarious! I was wondering what the bigger original dump valve was. When Terry built the car it was littered in HKS, so no surprise I guess. Anyway, have a look at the pic below. This is the original valve that I started with!. Worked on the GT35 DBB and the GT4088, but the T67 DBB, it chatters. Anyway, I stripped it, silicon lubed it (feels smoother now) and I'll refit it venting to atmos, with the connection pipe removed so as to maximise the exit aperture, and see how I get on.

Today I managed to ascertain that the brand new HKS valve, fitted in place is working properly - I can feel it open under idle. Road test with the recirc pipes off (just the nozzle of the valve to atmosphere) does indeed stop chatter on small gear changes, but give it anything with a close to meaty flow and it makes absolutely no difference to the chatter back through the turbo. I can therefore only conclude that the valve is unable to flow enough gas to work properly. would you concur? The old valve (which seems like it has a bigger piston head than the HKS ssqv I am currently using) worked on a GT35R DBB turbo. I have stripped it down - diaphragm is fine, I have silicon lubed the piston, and it's tested as working on the car in position, so I will fit this and see if it makes any difference. If not, then what are my options? Bigger race valve, or maybe fit an auxiliary valve somewhere else?

Update on this, I tested the 2 of the three valve's on the manifold, revving the engine at idle (it's possible still on the throttle body of the vvti) both the old valve and the copy hks work perfectly on all manifold locations. I could not test the new hks genuine fitted in place as I was on my own and my snap ring pliers have broken attempting to remove it. I'll have new pliers tomorrow and will test the valve in situ with a glamorous assistant. My instinct is that it is activating - but why it's still causing chatter, I have no idea.

I was looking at your dyno plots and was aghast at how early you spool and what you make top end. Before I disappeared for a while it was my goal to get the earliest spool I could at 600hp, and I tried a lot of systems, including ryan's mapping of the vvti system, and always a cast manifold as it made so much difference to throttle response and spool, but nothing comes close to touching your system, it's quite something. I had a tubular manifold from boost logic, and it just turned to putty eventually, mind you, so did their 4" stainless exhaust. 4 years of use and it was like tissue paper.

Yup, I concur.. I did some googling... The readings are good, way more than enough vacuum. Now I know (thanks Scott) they will activate at idle with throttle blips I'm going to play musical valves and musical takeoff points around the manifold until I get the best result, then try fitting that combo into a driving configuration.

That's very true, I'll have a go at that, mind you, I have 3 Valves and none of them work so far What do you think about the vacuum levels on lift off, looking at the gauge ? I'm wondering if the syvecs mapping of the throttle has it shut 100% on lift off, for if it kept the throttle open a fraction its possible that the vacuum would not be strong enough. I can't be sure but it's possible that I've had this problem since syvecs replaced the hks+ stock throttle system

and again, another old video with ZERO noise between gear changes...

Hi All, Next update - Today, I; - removed the recirc piping to the intake and blanked it off - I tried this incase the recirc piping was causing a pinch/restriction stopping the valve from working to it's optimum. In my mind I should also be able to hear the dump valve dump more... - re routed the activation vacuum pipe from the SSQV to the intake manifold using the stiffest pipe I have at the best diameter directly to the manifold take off behind the throttle body (this is where I have had the most success with it working before. Then I went to test it. After a few miles and a few cycles it started to dampen a bit of the flutter back through the turbo, but it's still not working as i would consider it should. The flutter is still there, and really - I cant hear the valve releasing pressure - no "pshhh" that I can hear - maybe your ears can... I made two vids of it... Would someone with a similar system like to take a listen and tell me what they think? T67... and my god the roads are greasy! http://www.vimeo.com/120283327 http://www.vimeo.com/120284036 http://www.vimeo.com/120283327 http://www.vimeo.com/120284036 and.. Here is an old video of the car - admittedly with a different turbo - from marham, Maybe a GT4088, with no hint of flutter... Thus is where i want to be with the system, not chattering every time I lift off.... (Oh and I wouldn't say no to a nice run round a summery Marham either! )

I even went so far as to take the valve off completely and blank the manifold off. It sounds the same fitted and not. It squeaks under the lightest lift off, I'm certain it's not working, as the old original one did when I had stripped and lubed it. The old one does have the lightest activation (resistance to push back with your hand), so assume it will activate the easiest of the three. Deliberately went for the SSQV as it said it could light release (sequential) hence helping activate under light release...

Hi All, I'm having issues with my recirc system. It's set up as a recirc valve and I can't make it work for the life of me, still keeps pushing air past the compressor in little squeaky noises under lift off) and I'm totally out of suggestions... Story so far; - Existing Recirc valve stops working - - So I took it off and lubed it up (where the piston goes through the housing, and generally cleaned it up) Worked for a day or two then stopped working again. - Bought a brand new HKS SSQV from fleabay, which arrives, looked fine, but wouldn't work, and then I found out that it was a fake. - So, bought another HKS SSQV from the HKS importers (TDI) and fitted that. Still doesn't work. Now I've tried plumbing it in to two different places on the manifold - just behind the throttle body (A on the pic) and at the rear of the manifold (B) on the pic. I've tried different diameters and types of hose, but no joy, Any Suggestions? My own thoughts are that; - I'm plugging it in somewhere that is not causing activation (but all taps seem to lead to the intake chamber as far as I can see) - the electronic throttle (VVTI) is not shutting fast enough to really get a good vacuum (these can vary between models, and mine is not the sharpest of them) - there is a manifold leak that is not letting the manifold build a sufficient vacuum to activate (but if I so much as pull one hose off, it raises the engine revs so far that the throttle cannot compensate - (held on etcs-i with syvecs)) - the diaphragm is too aggressive (original has an adjuster spring and used to work, but no more. HKS units have no adjustment at all). I can log manifold pressure with Syvecs to see what it is actually doing, but for god's sake, it's a dump valve, not a rocketship. Is it too much to ask for silence between gear changes?? (Turbo is a T67 DBB) please help! it MUST be something stupidly simple. Should I plumb it into every port on the manifold? ha ha :-(

and the irony is my wife's golf 2.0tdi will not start unless you put your foot on the clutch. Big message on the dashboard *depress clutch to start* though I'd like to think they have engineered their own solution.

Always something new to learn. I knew that any residual pressure was bad, but I didn't know it could have such terminal effects. Going to check mine again! I note that Ryans map on my car has it crank at least 7 times before the ignition fires.

also Look at the difference between the 60-100 times the first 3 cars are all singles.. Christian 4.3s Terry S 4.8s Ian C 4.6s Jake 7.3s *** MBL 6.6s Cashpoint 6.4s ??? XLM 7.7s Mr. Angry 8.0s *** GGC 7.5s *** WWO 9.6s ??? TRD 11.8s

Funny reading about my car when it belonged to someone else! (Terry S) I went to Brintingthorpe and thought the surface was terrible...

Love to see a dyno plot of that.

That is a good point - I had not considered that it was pressure sealing and the pressure itself was contribution to the way it was activating from the pressured side.. I can tell it's not working as I get compressor stall on throttle close - you can hear it clear as day. When it was working the system was silent. I can only test it driving, spool is excellent so I'm sure it's sealing, just not releasing. I will change the hose & change the connection on the inlet manifold, see what comes.

valve is ok, I have an old one and a new one to test - neither work. cant see why there would not be enough vacuum in the manifold, -1 bar prob at peak. They dont open on boost though, only on lift off, which is quite the opposite, and why big boost should produce so much more vacuum, hmm.. I doubt it would be much more. old bov was adjustable, new one is locked - I did try and adjust the old one. I have new tube coming better qual, and I'll try some different locations.

Hi All, Do any of you have any advice for correct fitting of these things - specifically which is the best vacuum point on the manifold to get the crispest (or any atm) activation of the BOV. Also any tips on the type of vacuum hose to use? I had a bit re-plumb and tidy up of all the vacuum systems (changed some routing and renewed hose) and even after fitting a brand new BOV, linked directly to the main vacuum pipe just behind the throttle body, I just cant get the thing to activate. I had an old HKS BOV on the car which is wired up in re-circ mode to make it nice and quiet. I started to get a bit of noise through the turbo on throttle closing a while ago, so I stripped it down (it is old) and lubricated what I could - internal membrane was stiff but not breached - and I managed to get it to work for 2-3 drives and then it stopped all together. The internal bushings on the thing felt incredibly sticky. I then ordered a new one and fitted it at the same time I tidied up all the hoses and now... nada. Is it possible that there are better takeoffs from the manifold than others? Is it possible that my silicon hose is weak walled and collapses under vacuum? (it does feel pathetically flimsy) Boost gauge is reading -0.8 bar of vacuum when the throttle body shuts under normal driving. I'm scratching my head :-/

Hi All, Been a while since I've been on here but the Supra is getting some work in the next few weeks and one of the jobs is to sort out the wheels. The alloys that are on there were not purchased for their look so much as they were the lightest I could find, and the perfect offset (or at least my idea of the perfect offset with regard to handling) for the car. Their lightness means they are not traditionally lacquered, and they are a total nightmare to keep clean, way beyond impractical, so I'm getting them painted and lacquered. The question is. What colour. I've been out of the scene for a while, and not up to date with current techniques on wheels or who's doing what, but any advice would be welcomed. My instinct is to go as light a silver as possible - for the biggest contrast. I think pure white would be too far, but what do you think? Car colour is BMW Carbon Schwartz - a black with slight blue tint.

Thanks guys, Much appreciated.

Thanks Guys, So, just to check, There are only 2 types of mount - pre and post facelift, and each has it's own specific engine bracket? Engine mount to chassis connection is the same for both - no bracket needed on that side? ...correct?

so you recommend keeping the pre facelift mounts that I have and try getting the pre facelift brackets? btw, hello Jamie :-)

Foolishly I thought all the MKIV's had the same engine mounts, so after my engine mounts arrived I thought I'd better check them against the original units in place before fitting and they look very different. Pics attached. I've had a good search for mount specs on the site and not found anything significant. I heard there was a difference between vvti and standard mounts, with the vvti's being weaker, but had no idea they were a different physical size. Am I right in thinking the bracket on the engine is different? - and if so, is it going to be better / easier to fit the new mounts I have with an older style non vvti engine bracket (I'm assuming that the brackets are also different to keep the engine in the same place?) all help and comments appreciated..

My .81 is hot side, and non divided. yes.64 was a disaster, asthmatic, hot, and spools only marginally quicker, shortly followed by a lack of power and once the revs get really high, it's like a diesel ;-)

I tried .68, .81 and .96 on my t67, .68 had high egt and felt asthmatic, the .96 was a lag monster but cold and meaty but throttle response was poor, .81 was by far the best of both worlds.. I used a cast manifold and that helped a lot on response and spool over the tubular.