Mike B

Thanks for the messages, Looks like the buildings insurance will put it back to a very high spec, so paying for the odd bit of soft furnishings here and there will result in a swanky new pad in the end, but contents ins would have been handy no doubt... there is quite a list in the end.

Jeeze, sorry to hear.. we had to put in iron bars on the enside of ours for the same reason. ornamental looking, but you can't get through them. sorry to hear that bud, it's a horrid feeling I know, but it will fade eventually. I just found 2 guys cutting the ends of a container off to get a quad bike out at home. The made off across the fields with the dog in pursuit but it's the damage and hassle they cause.

double skin on the log burner flue (we think) managed to set fire to a floor joist... fire was contained between ceiling and floor then spread out under the floor and above the roof. tried to run up with a garden hosepipe... soon ran back out with my tail between my legs, dialling 999. the heat from the smoke was beyound anything I can describe... melted everything 3 foot off the ground. Including my favourite shirt. all upvc windows melted in situ. EVERYONE GO CHECK YOUR FIRE ALARMS NOW, AND THEN CHECK YOUR INSURANCE!!! NO EXCUSES!

It's true.... at least I had a good excuse as to why I was not there to put the flames out. 3 rooms torched, smoke damage from hell, fishtank still on the critical list, all clothes a write off, lots of stuff lost, full building ins, but contents had lapsed. might put the supra on the back burner.. going to be 4 months till we are back in. My girlfriend moved in with me 2 months ago... now 70% of everything she owns, (including all clothes) up in smoke. She has been remarkable through all, an inspiration. Susan, dog and I all safe though (bar a bit of coughing and a barbequeued aroma) and live to fight another day.

mmm... I'm into the engineering more than the status, would doubt if I saw 15k registered, non registered.. not sure... 13? you think the supra will ever get true classic status in the future?

"I will part ex for a Bmw Z4 or Audi TT 03 plate or newer, and with low mileage with full service history (for the wife)." **then paint it bright green and drive it myself**

scared to do mine... don't want to know... lol but probably will next time i'm in there...

I cracked a single manifold hitting a speed bump, the dp/front section takes the hit and these single kits have no flexible section so it bends the manifold... pretty sure I did mine on the marham entry speedbump. good luck.. hope you get it sorted!

eye eye.... good idea.. i'll give them a call on monday. these garrett cores are all the same.. what did you use on your 4088r?

New HKS T04Z arrived on Fri, but although this uses a Garratt core, it has the oil flow regulator built into the thread of the oil feed, and so, unlike the T67/4088R and 35R I have used in the past, my female connector will not do the job... I need a proper HKS style gasketed connector as this half a job male connector has always weeped a little at high oil pressure. Anyone know a good source that may have one of these on the shelf early next week?

my cage comes through into the passenger compartment and along the a pillar into the footwell. IMHO this is the only point in having one as it's always the a pillar that crushes on these things... and the back of the car is strong enough. look at all the pics of mashed or rolled sups.. the a pillar crumbles so easily... It needs to be welded in too.

Hey Si... Split load charging?? can you explain? as I understand, one wire has a variable power so it can govern the alternator's output. when I rev the car now I do get an increased output, but at tickover I would like to see a bit higher voltage out of the alternator tbh...

read up on alternators late last night.. the 3.5v is variable so the car can control whet sort of power the alternator puts out. problem solved, car running fine...

hey bud, thanks... Yeah, 4 pin plug I have seen on other alternators, but the one spec'd for this car is as above, I have a choice of 12v for the exciter wire, or 3.25v... which one should it be...? the only other thing I can do with the other lead is either block off the 3.5v, and use 12v as exciter, or use the 3.5v as the exciter and block offthe 12 or attach the 12 to positive... if there are no suggestions I will start experimenting with either ofthe the above and a volt meter!

Hi Everyone, This alternator problem comes from my girlfriends Astra 1.7 TD.. I have 4 wires; -Earth -Main power -small anciliary wire measuring 3.25v when ignition is on -small anciliary wire measuring 12v when ignition is on As I understand there should only be 3 wires needed for the alternator; power return, earth and an exciter wire to start the alternators power generation field. can anyone tell me which is the correct voltage to use as the exciter and what the other wire is for and where it should go! thanks in advance

You may have lost some rubber from the tyres, but you collected it back on the offside panels

Hey bud, I've done a few and enjoyed them, but marham is the only place where you can let the wild horses run free. A small underpowered car is better for real tracks I recon unless you spend a lot of money setting the sup up for track only. I got a load of used slicks for mine which help the front end grip a lot, as do the correct offsets.. it's still not perfect but at least you can drive it and don't kill tyres... but you will melt the brakes! lol... and cook your oil.... For sure, for us mortals, unless you have a good setup and are a very good driver it's hard to enjoy yourself as much on the tracks as you do at marham, or the other airfields. The first one I did was the toyota owners club trackday, it was chip free and excellent fun... I've seen chris drive round donnington in the wet and all I can say is I've got 15 hard years of competition to do before I can enjoy that to it's full potential! evidence below.. that was 15 feet from a concrete wall.

Thanks dude, appreciated,, good resources. Good thing about this car is that there is not a lot you can do to it, although I dd ear that a few people have strapped chargers to them! lol... I was expecting a lot more power low down, but you have to rev them.... there is nothing, less than sup below 2k.. was the monaro a low rpm puller? thanks bud,

Welcome bud, my supra was planned after a good member on here inducted me to the ways. FWIW i agree on the manual front on all cars.. but it's a personal thing, for me a stick gives a level of controld and dexterity to the driver that an auto can never do, saying that I may well be faster round a track in an auto.. lol but it's personal for sure. be careful with your wheels.. most aftermarket wheels will be different offsets and this will effect your handling a LOT... your stock wheels are +50, and you's be best to stick as close to this.. and pay attention to the width too... don't ruin a good handling car! Wait until you have a go in a good single turbo... it will leave you even prouder of the marque!

lol... yes I'm about to enter the world of pain, waiting at junctions for 20 minutes because everyone hates me! I heard on the grape vine (well top gear actually) that all the "BM" drivers are selling up and buying Audi's... so that's my story, and I'm sticking to it! The price? £6200 which I thought was a bargain. This thing is beyond mint.. had a look at a few and I can't tell it's been used aside the numbers on the odo., and it has every gadget known to man! I'll be happy enough just tinkering with all the buttons Now I need a set of cheap 18" BM wheels and I can pop my spare slicks on it and the Mrs can bring it down to Marham with the Sup in April... lol see if she can get round the twisties infront of the evo's I doubt it.. it's comfy but I seriously doubt the power figures. PH members tell me that these things do 30 to the gallon, most economical of the petrols on fuel... but I'm not holding my breath and not looking forward to the road tax renewal... but hey... I'm now 35 and desrve a bit of luxury

I've been lookig for an estate since my ex and I split a while ago as I do a lot of outdoor stuff. Was thinking of something practical, then started looking at a little more money to get something a little more comfortable. Did a bit of research, drove some oil burners, and then put a deposit on the new family member this morning. I present to you, the Commendant! A prime 6 speed 540i sport (4.4 v8) E39. 65000 miles and so clean you'd think it was a new car. Unreal how much you get for your money these days. This must have been 35-40k 6 years ago.. crazy! The funny thing is that the car is supposed to be 280hp/440lb and it's at least 1/4 the speed of the supra. When test driving it I burst out laughing the first time I gunned it till it's stupidly comfortable, the antithesis of the supra, Good combo. any guesses on the price? looking forward to seeing if it will do the 32mpg they say it wil on the motorway... I had 20-25 in mind...

That an engine blowout and oil on the track, looks like a lot of stuff going on under the front wheels before she goes. What did it look like?

If you can fix my throttle ghost and get the right wires/connectors i WILL swap it for a humane one... lol I only use humane ones, although you have to check them every day, otherwise it's not so humane!

Hi Everyone, been a while since I have been on the board, but I've had some time off and have devoted 3 days to the supra in the attempt to get all the niggles sorted. FBW First on the menu was the FBW throttle. I know of few that keep the fbw, but I like the det protection so I have persevered. The problem is that when in single tune the ecu decides to retard the throttle occasionally, half of the time it will not give full power in 2nd gear, and 3rd gear sees throttle ghosts from time to time. There are a number of things this could cause it, and I have now come to the end of my diagnostic trail, unless you have any suggestions; Not det related; seperate det monitor shows nothing Not MAF related - put a variable resistor on the feed, turned it down to nothing (on the stock ecu's feed - downstream of the fuel ecu before you blow a bloodvessel!) Not MAP related, again variable resistor downstream (as above) no effect. So what could it be.. (my original mapper said it could be the above) There are a load of sequential signal feeds, but... what other diagnostic signal feeds could cause troubled readings to the ecu, enough to cause it to shut throttle on a single car?? any ideas? APEXI BOOST SENSOR The other stumbling block today was fitting of the said apexi boost sensor. Square plug, round hole... new sensor does not fit the old connector, so what goes where?? one pin is marked with a bulls eye (circle with dot) one is marked with a G one is marked with a V colours of corresponding plug wires are red, yellow and black. Now I could take an educated guess at this, but feel free to guess as well, see if we can get a concencus! Mousey Opened the bonnet this morning and what should be sat square in the middle of the cam cover but a field mouse. I looked at it thinking "I really want it to run out of the car" and it looked at me thinking "I really want to run and hide in the car" Last pick is of it staring at me from inside the wing. didn't get it so there is a mousetrap in there tonight! Tomorrow is boot rubbers, front wing fitment, passenger hub replacement, brake caliper cleaning. regards to one and all

I went for the 1.0 divided, was tempted to get the .65 non-divided but was reliably told that the 1.00 housing was responsive... should be here any day cheap price too! I'll get some for you bud... This company is very good! Actually true.. it sounds louder and raspier on cast, but the TO$z should have a better soundtrack Also every time I change a housing, turbo, and now manifold the boost controller achieves a different max psi as per it's settings.. the cast saw peak boost drop from 1.5bar to 1.45bar... still not sure why... but easily recified by upping the gain... but I want to know why!! lol