merckx

Extra hose incase you want to connect an oil cooler?????????????

I think you might need: 11213-46020 and 11214-46011

Almost half price at Screwfix compared to B & Q. Use Screwfix or a similar shop whenever you can as B & Q can be extortionate especially for screws. http://www.screwfix.com/prods/88758/Electrical/Switches-Sockets/White-Moulded/Volex-Range/Volex-50A-Ceiling-Sw-Neon There's a free coffee machine at the Screwfix near me . ps. Only mess with electricity if you're 100% confident that you know what you're doing.

It's not difficult to diy. http://www.thor-racing.co.uk/Electronic-186.asp

Just incase it wasn't read properly, I didn't the first time Or a 3mm (drill through) Then use a 5mm drill before tapping. You don't really need to use all 3 taps in the set on Ebay, the second or no 2 tap is sufficient for your purposes if you could get that one alone. If you want a no 2 tap free of charge let me know -I've got 4 or 5in the hut, my brother acquires new ones as freebies. But you'll still need to get a tap wrench from somewhere

I've just been using a pair that my brother bought from the same seller.

Yes. When I see parts like this I always think that it's a shame when you hide them away in the engine.

I've used this place a few times when buying brakes for the van, I don't think you have to be too concerned about buying expensive makes when buying handbrake shoes. http://www.brakediscs.org.uk/company.html I'm not sure if there're two types available (according to the EPC ?) for the Supra and because of sods law they're bound to send the wrong ones. Halfords can get parts for import cars, they get them from local motor factors which I've found to be not particularly cheap if you get them directly. Halfords do them at a decent price and normally get them in a few hours, handy too incase they get the wrong ones.

The crank sensor is obviously next to the crank and at the front right of the engine, next to the alternator. I took mine out yesterday. You can unplug the harness which is more accessible and check the resistance but I don't think that'll give you a definate answer when questioning it's ability to work properly, I would think the same goes for the camshaft sensor.

It's one of the most freqently asked questions.

Yes, definately try that. Misfires are great aren't they, I've got one. I've changed the plugs, fitted new coilpack connectors (the old ones were fine) and fitted new coilpacks and leads (only 3 coilpacks with leads on the vvti )and it's still there.

They're extremely useful but the tools aren't particularly cheap. My brother has got a set but it's only for sheet metal. I think I would drill them out and re-tap M6.

Yes, that's the first impression that I got.

Yes, experience and patience is the key when using these. The last time I used one it was on one of the M6 bolts that hold the coilpacks in place, the previous owner had sheared off three of these. I drilled a lovely hole right in the centre of the sheared bolt, inserted the stud extractor and turned it slowly only for it to shear off right where it enters the hole. The galvanic corrosion between the aluminium and steel didn't help of course, then you're left with a sheared stud extractor which is too hard to drill out.

From a shop that sells brake parts.

Likely outcome.

I've been getting an intermittent misfire under high boost which is getting worse to the point where a couple of times when I've gone for a test drive the engine has cut out altogether when driving steadily to warm it up after a couple of miles. It won't start immediately but after five minutes or so it will start and I'll drive home. I've fitted new coil packs,clips and spark plugs. It's only showing a code 14 which is obviously ignition related. Can a faulty crank position sensor or a camshaft sensor result in giving a code 14 without displaying their own individual fault codes? Or can anything else be responsible as I'm struggling to find a cause as code 14 isn't specific enough to help. Thanks

I found the same when I repaced my filter the for the first time. It's apparently a common problem on some Toyota's according to the part bloke , it's over tightened and it flares out inside the filter and not allowing itself to be unscrewed. Surprisingly it was less than £20 a couple of years ago.

I agree, I didn't say it would be stronger. But a good quality crow foot would do the job. A ring spanner every time, but Homer was looking for an alternative.

Not if you get a good one.

Crow foot spanner? http://www.screwfix.com/sfd/i/cat/40/p4756540_x.jpg http://www.toolshopdirect.co.uk/images/tb/33892_thumb.jpg http://www.toolshopdirect.co.uk/images/tb/33871_thumb.jpg

Would Toyota fit it to the later cars if this was so, I don't think so. It may well produce a better spark and the six coil pack design could well be inferior. It's all got to be down to the actual coil pack design and it's reliability. You've got to remember that the wasted spark coil pack is not just a single coil pack with two outputs, it was obviously designed for a purpose and therefore I cannot see any disadvantages at all. I trust Toyota.

It would but the actual wasted spark doesn't have the required conditions to produce a good spark as it does when you have the air/fuel mixture present therfore it's not really a full high voltage spark that's wasted. I'm sure that Toyota wouldn't have changed the setup to wasted spark if they weren't confident in maintaining their record of high reliability.

I'm not sure if I understand this fully. Wasted spark systems have a higher potential for spark intensity because the duty of charging and discharging is split between the coils, which allows for more charge time per coil. Additionally, wasted spark systems build up less heat in the coil, making it more reliable.