merckx

Do I need a higher capacity fuel pump? I've done a long search but cannot really find any answers. 97 VVTI TT, Nur Spec R and full decat. I'm boosting to just under 1.2 bar. Will the original J spec pump provide sufficient fuel? I've read that detonation is a sign of not enough fuel reaching the engine. Could the pump be providing insufficient fuel and so reduce power without you noticing? When reaching max boost I sometimes get a misfire or is this detonation? I'm sure I've got Denso IK22'S If I need a better pump, is the Walbro 342 the one to get? Advice appreciated - Cheers

http://www.motuk.co.uk/manual/contents.htm

No, the packet doesn't say anything about being 4000k. The plastic lenses are really clean. If you put the 9005 65 Watts in the dipped beam don't you get cars coming the other way flashing at you!

After modifying the 9006 bulbs - Phillips Premium 30 % More light and getting them fitted, I went out for a drive last night and the dipped beam is still rubbish! The main beam is fantastic!

Not sure what fit's the pre facelift J spec cars dipped beam, but the 9006 bulb doesn't fit my 97 facelift.

I've got the J spec lights, I managed eventually to get the 9006 bulbs to fit, next time I'm going to measure some first.

All of the searches on the net and on here point to the "9006 " bulbs being the ones for the dipped beam. I got some Phillips Premium 9006 for my 97 my facelift lights-dipped beam and they don't fit Here's a place to get them, quick delivery. http://www.powerbulbs.com/index.htm The "O" ring on the boss should provide a snug fit, but was about 2mm too big. The photo shows a 9006 bulb (not the actual one) 9006 I had to remove the "O" ring and reduce the diameter of the boss, I refitted the "O" ring even though I had removed the groove that it used to sit in. They fit okay but they definately aren't designed to fit the facelift dipped beam. Next time I need some bulbs for the healights I'm going to go to Halfrauds and measure some first to make sure they fit!

Here's another place to get them, quick delivery. http://www.powerbulbs.com/index.htm I got some Phillips Premium 9006 for my 97 my facelift lights-dipped beam and they don't fit The "O" ring on the boss should provide a snug fit, but was about 2mm too big. The photo shows a 9006 bulb (not the actual one) 9006 I had to remove the "O" ring and reduce the diameter of the boss, I refitted the "O" ring even though I had removed the groove that it used to sit in. They fit okay but they definately aren't designed to fit the facelift dipped beam. Next time I need some bulbs for the healights I'm going to go to Halfrauds and measure some first to make sure they fit!

Definately! The first cat can be a pain! Not easy to get to the nuts, you have to use a long extension with the wrench. I replaced both cats myself last week, 2 nuts were tight but came loose okay. The third one was a right b**tard, the socket rounded off the corners and I had to go out and buy a nut splitter then bash on another socket to remove it. Normally a damaged nut isn't a problem but it is in such an awkward place. On the older cars when undoing the nuts you run the risk of shearing off the studs, you would then have to remove the turbo elbow! If eveything comes loose okay then it is an easy job but if you run into problems you'll wish you paid someone else to do it!

Yep I'll have to get some bayonet holders, thought about going to the local salvage place and looking for some off any vehicle that will fit.

I've got the facelift lights, they don't use the bayonet type. They're the wedge type that push in. Bloody stupid of Toyota to use these bulbs, why couldn't they design the lights to accept the univeral bayonet type like most manufacturers use. I've done loads of searches on the net and I cannot find any wedge type bulbs of the correct size to fit the front indicators(only found the tiny ones that fit the indicator on the side of the car). I know I could get replacements at Toyota but I want the silver bulbs.

Cannot see any that fit, they must be the push-in type. I can only see the same ones that I bought (about 8mm dia)- BU501S , I think these are for the indicators on the side of the car and not the front. They need to be the push in type and about 22mm dia.

The original bulb wasn't blown, I just prefer not to have the orange look. I've also got the facelift lights. The bulb is clear and fits inside an orange sleeve in the front indicator, I was going to remove this orange sleeve and fit one of these silver looking bulbs instead. Not sure if you can get them in this size, I've searched everywhere on the net. I can only find ones the same size that I've just bought.

Just replaced both of mine last week:nana: I would replace the first catalyst as it is more restrictive, it should pass the MOT with either catayst still on the car. Not sure what it will be like with the standard exhaust though? If you do a search for decat you will get all the info you need.

Just bought some silvitac (silver but flash orange) indicator bulbs not realising that they are far too small. When you look at the pics on the net you cannot get any idea of the scale. The original bulb (about 22mm dia) is on the left , the silvatec on the right. Bulbs Anyone know if you can get them the same size as the original bulb? I did make an adapter but the small silvatec bulbs aren't bright enough. Not a bad photo considering I used a brand new digital camera that only cost £10.

Basically you've got 2 catalysts which run to almost the middle of the car then the exhaust . I replaced the standard exhaust with a Nur Spec R, it has a removable baffle in the back box which can go back in if you want it a little quieter . On it's own the exhaust produces a nice sound but not excessively loud. When you drive the car it is much more responsive, the turbo's spool up quicker. The boost on mine went up from about 0.7 bar to 0.9 bar which will give you an increase in power. Last week I replaced both catalysts with 2 Chris Wilson Decat pipes. Once again it will make it a little more responsive and more powerful, boost went up from about 0.9 to 1.1 bar. Best not to boost more than 1.2 bar. But to pass the MOT next time I will temporarily have to refit one of the catalysts. The car is now pretty loud, I got some filthy looks from one of my neighbours 2 doors away last week when I was giving it a bit of a rev. It's just loud enough, I can reverse it out of the drive and drive off by being gentle on the throttle and it's okay. When you remove the catalysts you have to make sure the boost doesn't creep up too high. Therefore you'll also have to buy a boost gauge to keep an eye on this. It's also advisable to buy a Fuel Cut Defender(TRL Performance),this will prevent the fuel being cut to the engine which can happen at high boosts which could be slightly inconvenient when you're overtaking 2 or 3 cars with a lorry coming the other way. I fitted all of these myself, the prices were: Nur Spec R £585 CW Decat pipes £300 Boost gauge and controller, approx £270(you can get much cheaper ones) TRL FCD £90

I've got mine adjusted so you cannot rotate the wheel by hand when it's on 3 clicks. When the handbrake is off the brake shoes are only dragging very slightly. When you take the wheel off if you look at the disc there is a small rubber bung, if you remove this and rotate the disc untill the hole is near the bottom and shine a torch through . You will see a a toothed wheel which you can rotate by using a screwdriver through the hole, cannot remember which way you rotate it to tighten it - just trial and error (pushing the top of the wheel I think). Just keep putting the wheel back on loosely to check the feel of the handbrake.

The torque required to tighten a sparkplug is relatively small , approx 13 lbf.ft and something like 76 lbf.ft for the wheels. The one at Demon Tweeks looks okay.(10-150 lbf.ft) Torque wrench Personally I just tighten untill they feel right although I use a torque wrench for the more critical components. Basically the more you pay will give you better accuracy and quality.

I've got a Nur Spec R on my TT, it's much more responsive. I took both cats off yesterday but it hasn't made that much difference,the boost has gone up from 0.9 to 1.1. I'll be putting one cat back on for the MOT. Not sure what performance increase you'll get on a NA, I would do a long search or hope someone with a NA replies. I do know that taking the cats off will make it loud!

In my opinion 18" wheels are the perfect size. Much more important to get wheels that suit the car. Size isn't everything!

I think I will do this, will also check the 12V power and ground. Had a quick look at the MAP sensor and it does have a yellow/black wire along with 2 others. Thanks

What make of exhaust are you getting? Have you got a Twin Turbo or a Slow One(Normally aspirated)

Thanks Simon, I think you must be right, the layout of the connectors on the ECU do match the diagram. Just a bit reluctant to cut them when not 100%.

I've got a 1997 VVTI TT, I was just going to wire in the fuel cut defender but I'm not 100% sure . Here's the wiring diagram: VVTI The colour of the wires coming from my ECU don't correspond with the ones in the diagram. The MAP wire is yellow/black (blue in diagram) 12V Power is red/black (red in diagram) 0V Ground is brown (black in diagram) The layout of the connectors is the same as the diagram. Is this normal that the wires are different colours, just want to make sure before I start cutting. Speedy response much appreciated.

I'll be changing mine at the weekend and will post on here afterwards. If the oil hasn't been changed on a 10 year old car then I would want to change it anyway.