merckx

I couldn't agree more! There was a program on a few years ago investigating these tyres. They bought a selection of part worn tyres and had an expert check them out. A high proportion of them had hidden damage. The recommendation was don't buy them! I wouldn't put one on a Micra never mind a 300 Bhp Supra.

They're only a straight swap on the facelift car which use the same sort of bulb holder - wedge type that you push in. The earlier cars use the bayonet type that you push in and turn.

No, I had a similar problem like many others. The mast could be seized or the long length of toothed plastic which pushes the aerial up and pulls it down could have snapped which is more likely. You can get a replacement mast from Toyota for about £30. If you remove the top nut on the aerial and then switch the radio on you should be able to remove the mast with the toothed plastic which runs inside. The end of this plastic piece should be chamfered, you need to insure it all comes out Now with the new mast feed it in (the same way the old one came out, cannot remember which way) and then switch the radio off and it should pull the aerial all the way in. Then put the nut back on.

I bought the same clear front indicators from this place on EBay, good service and nice lights.

Michael, your pics have been really helpful. The lights look really good:) I'm not sure whether to get some, would you recommend them?

The lights aren't really discoloured , I've cleaned them with T- Cut a few times but they just look dull compared to some of the pics of the glass lights. Glass headlamp: http://img80.exs.cx/img80/61/glassjpg.jpg

I've got a facelift car with the standard plastic lenses. I recall someone saying the pattern on the lense was diiferent to the standard plastic ones and didn't look as good. Do the glass lights have shiny bits inside while the facelift ones don't. Are the glass lights worth getting, do they look better? Any opinions appreciated.

When I fitted an air horn to my van I used the existing wires at the horn to operate the coil circuit on a standard 30 Amp automotive relay. The main power supply was taken directly from the battery and goes to the air horn through the switched part of the relay. It was nice and loud! Not sure if they are a bit extreme for a car though.

Some pics would be nice when it comes in.

Has anyone replaced their Handbrake Lever with a nicer one with a leather gaiter - Momo etc. Is it possible, has anyone got any pics. Thanks

Lazarus posted this a couple of weeks ago.

You need to know the density of the fluid first. I might do it later , I've forgotten most of the stuff that I did on my Mechanical Engineering Degree 14 years ago:( I've got some good books though.

I asked my local Toyota Dealer about getting one , he said he would have to email their Head Office . I sensed he couldn't really be bothered to do it, when I called back a few days later to collect some parts I didn't ask him about it. But he didn't say it wasn't possible to get one. Not sure exactly how much it would cost. Their was the possibility of a group buy but I think one of the members on here had problems contacting the seller. I think they're at least £100:( I wanted to get a Workshop Manual when I first got the car, but now I realise it's probably not that necessary. If you need to know anything just post a question in the appropriate section and some kind person will answer it for you:)

Thanks Ski much appreciated:) The kit you bought, was it a custom fit for the Supra or did you just get the pieces to cut yourself?

I'm going to insulate the rear end of the car, boot area, wheel arches and maybe under the carpet in the rest of the car. I've heard of Dynamat before but after doing a search I've found some people use Barrier Mat and was pointed to this link. http://www.noisekiller.co.uk/soundproofing.htm Which is best stuff to use, Dynamat or Barrier Mat? If I go for the Barrier Mat can you buy it directly from the place above? Thanks:)

I've got a 97 J spec VVTI, there is no sensor in the cat pipe and none in the exhaust. I'm sure the UK spec car has one though. The flange fitted on the decat pipe has a flat face and 2 studs. All you have to do is make up a small steel plate to cover the flange and fasten it with 2 nuts on the studs - use a gasket to give it a good seal. You might even get these bits supplied.

I don't know why mine doesn't have a bracket. I've just been looking at the spat, the screws and the double sided tape are more than sufficient to hold it in place. You don't need a bracket.

If you want to get some decat pipes then get some from Chris Wilson (Do a search), these are 2 1/2" which are ideal for a TT. Also get a restrictor ring which you'll need to restict the boost from getting too high on a Jap Spec car. I got mine for £300 - decat pipes and restrictor ring Plenty of exhausts to choose from , I've got a Nur Spec R exhaust which are very popular. There's a group buy of these happening now at a very good price.

I took off my spat the other day, underneath it was held on by a massive lump of mastic. There isn't a hole in the bottom of my spat or any other obvious way of fixing a bracket. The spat was held on by the 3 screws on the wheelarch, the vertical and horizontal edges were secured using double sided tape.

It is widely known that is okay to run 1.2 bar on a J spec. I have always wondered where this 1.2 bar figure came from. Any ideas?

Only one available is from Toyota, and they aren't cheap! You can get some on Ebay in the States, not sure if there are any differences. Ebay States

I did this last week, I bought some solid brass terminal clamps from Maplins. The existing leads with very slight modification will bolt onto the clamps. £2.99 for each clamp and £0.99 for a cover. They are solid brass and gold plated - nice quality http://www.maplin.co.uk/images/Full/30217i0.jpg

I bought some NGK BKR7E (6097) (£10.43 a set from Partco). These are suitable for a car upto full BPU so are ideal for your car. I've got a full decat and they work great! These are recommended on the mkiv.com site.

Maybe it's the Chris Wilson one that is expensive! I think it's difficult to draw comparisons as there are very few side mounted intercoolers available. I'm sure the Radtec SMIC will be equally as good as the Chris Wilson one. Radtec appear to have a very good reputation:

My plate is 21" x 7" and I really like the look of it!