merckx
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Everything posted by merckx
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There's a high pressure port...H and a low pressure port...L
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20% for instance means: 20% wheels spin before power is started to be cut by the RLTC. Wet and dry settings could have been given a percentage aswell, 0 & 5. Wet is the very least wheelspin. 20% is the max wheelspin.
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Here's one, camera not that good Used Plasti Kote hammered silver Followed by Plasti Kote bright red enamel (cannot get it in a hammered finish) Tried the Hammerite stuff, but the Plasti Kote red was nicer.
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Always things to do , motivating yourself is the problem sometimes. Just done all the brake calipers, look nice now!
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That's correct. But the IK24's are okay to use aswell, you shouldn't have any problems with the plugs especially when the car is idling unless the gap is way out.
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I get a metallic clonking when I'm braking at slow speeds. If I put both windows down I can here a clonk from each side. Definately not the brakes though!
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Both of them make decent tents, the Wynnster one appears to be a little better after looking at the spec. Like anything, the more you pay the better quality it will be. I wouldn't pay less than £200, anything around £300 should be even better quality. The more expensive ones have stronger stitching, eyelets and better quality zips etc. I've got a Gelert tent which is okay aswell. Nice to have a tent with a largish living area so you've got somewhere to sit if it's raining.
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On my Admiral policy it's the same as above, apart from the year made which is obviously different.
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You might get these with the calipers but I would fit some new ones. Get them from your local Toyota dealer. Shims - thin metal pieces that go between the piston and the pad. Fitting kit - anti rattle piece, wire clip and pins. Here's a pic: Click I would make sure the brakes wil fit first, I've got 18" wheels on the car and I've only got 1.5mm clearance and that's with 4mm spacers fitted!
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http://www.mkiv.com/manual/manualtt/general_maintenance/mo14.jpg It's not obvious from the pic, not that critical as they aren't ball joints or bushes. I would tighten them to 196 Nm to be sure. The other ones at the rear aren't obvious either, is it 43Nm or 43 ftlbs. 43 ftlbs sounds more like it though.
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needle
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split
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Cycling
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Under the differential, no need for a plate.
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Princess Anne
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Van Nistelrooy....."Ruud"
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credit
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turbine
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The link doesn't work, must've been deleted.
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Nun
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Here's the advert: Click I would take the spoiler off and fit the original, it would put me off straight away. People prefer not to buy modified cars. Don't say how quick it is in the advert, they might get the impression it's been thrashed. I wouldn't emphasize how much better the 190 is compared to the 140. Maybe some better photo's , no other vehicles in the picture and a more scenic background.
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Just realised you're not asking! LOL The fluid level will go up in the reservoir when you push them back!
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Put a spacer on one of the studs, doesn't have to be a brilliant fit. Then put one of the wheel nuts back on - this will hold the disc in place. The UK front brakes don't have any bolts holding the disc on, it's normal for the disc to be loose when you remove the pads. With the pads removed, stick a piece of wood in to lever the pads back. Or use a screwdriver , watch you don't damage the piston seals! A G clamp works good aswell if you haven't any nice paint on the caliper.
