merckx

Alex, looks like there's one part number for all the bits in the pic (apart from throttle position sensor which is listed separately) Throttle assembly as in pic (22210) : 22030-46160 Couldn't figure how to get a copy of the screen so I took a pic of it

Yes they are, definately!

Yes, it is used to indicate wheel speed and engine revs. You can switch between these.

What do you get if you do it, almost there!

Yes, haven't we all!

Well, I've just found the part number for the MAF sensor , it matches one I found in an earlier post. Also the rocker cover, it gives a different part number for post Sept 97 cars which I presume is when the VVTI was introduced.

I've got XP, It didn't have the install for XP option. But I installed it for Win 98 and it's working fine. There's one CD that installs the operating system on the hard disc, all of the data for the J spec Supra appears to be on one CD which you leave in the drive. I wasn't sure how to save it on the hard disc , must be possible though. To tell if you're getting VVTI part numbers I'll have to search for something on the engine, any suggestions? Maybe a part number that I can verify. It's accepting valid chassis numbers upto Dec 2000.

Just got one of these EPC - electronic parts catalogue off Ebay I know a few people were enquiring about these. Well , it appears to work okay. http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/TOYOTA-Factory-EPC-on-7CDs-a-true-must_W0QQitemZ7993493613QQcategoryZ18436QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

4 weetabix , hopefully

Two subframes at the front, one at the back. All run across the width, some of the torque figures in the text and with the diagram conflict. Personally I would use the higher value. You must have seen this pic!

If you're trying to work out power figures for modified cars using their speeds you could start by getting the figures for a stock car. Get the average figures for a stock car , bhp and speed and put them in your equations and work backwards to get a constant which will be your frontal area and drag factor combined. Cannot think of any reason why this won't work to give you approximate power figures. I'm not too sure if it would be easy to do it that accurately, It wouldn't be simple working from first principles as there would be other unknowns such as car weight and varying tyre sizes resulting in increased rolling resistance and drag .

I'm not sure if anyone understands the question, I didn't!

Thanks, didn't fancy knocking them out with a hammer!

I bought a ball joint separation tool from Machine Mart - £8, you might need to file the fork bit to open it up slightly so the stud will pass through Similar to this: Squeezed them out, this will not damage the bearing. Rotate the hub so the stud you want to remove is at the rear, it was very easy.

You just need to remove the disc, all will become clear when you do this. I pushed them out with a ball joint separation tool, or tap them out -up to you as they aren't that tight. I replaced all of mine. You asked this question back in June http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/showthread.php?p=483435#post483435post483435

Somewhere in here I would think: http://www.max-boost.co.uk/max-boost/resources_supra.htm

Not sure if you mean the tie rod end, diagram near the bottom. http://www.max-boost.co.uk/max-boost/resources/SUPRA_MKIV/STEERING_SYSTEM_POWER_RACK_.PDF

Know how you're feeling! Went to BCA auction at Manchester last year, hoping to get this BMW 540, cream leather, all the extras and in immaculate condition.Went for just a little more than I wanted to pay, really disappointed at the time as the car was spotless. Glad I got the Supra instead though. Hopefully there'll be more appearing at the auctions for you .

Just noticed mine doing this when reversing yesterday, I wonder if it's just the bolts that need tightening.

Just what I read somewhere in a previous post, if you've got a choice of the two places to put it then putting it further back would be better.

Yes,not a problem but fitting it as far back as possible will keep the extra heat away from the turbos.

After the second decat, between the decat and the exhaust. Fitting it as far back as possible will keep the extra heat away from the turbos.

At least twice over!

your

Your air conditioning bloke will use them when filling up with new refrigerant. There's a viewing window on the H one, you can see bubbles moving etc so you can determine if it's working or not, needs filling up etc.