merckx

Racing Hart CR. I need some wheels, been looking for a while. These are the nicest I've found so far, they'll have to wait a while for me until the funds are available! A few on here have them already, here's another pic.

I'm not sure if there's a definate answer to this. It depends on wheel design aswell. Also, some J spec supra's have the larger brakes which were standard on the UK car.

On the passenger side the main wiring harness comes through the bulkhead near the wing, if you feed it through from the engine bay it should drop down into the footwell. On the drivers side on the manual there is a grommet in the footwell, if you feed something through it will come out in the inner wing. There's some access into this area in the engine bay. I would say the first option is better for boost gauge plumbing but you have to be careful not to interfere too much with the wiring harness.

Depends on what power you've got and boost presssure you're running I would think. A standard intercooler will work fine on a stock car as long as it's in reasonable condition, mine wasn't so I've just replaced it with a new Chris Wilson intercooler. The car's running great and I'm not worried now about pushing it too hard when the warmer weather comes.

I used it years ago, but I don't think it's necessary nowadays. Good quality petrol like optimax contains all the stuff you need including detergents to keep the engine clean and prevent carbon build up.

You can , I did. I didn't use those multi-connector things that you get with it, soldered everything with some good quality heat shrink.

Thanks, didn't know it was on!

This one's even better Click

I think the main cause is bad ventilation of the headlight. I've got facelift headlights, one of them must be an improved design. Toyota must've realised there was a problem. The clear plastic viewing window on the top of the housing has a vent in addition to the vent on the rear. I had condensation in both of mine, I used a heat gun on the outside to evaporate the condensation. The one with the extra vent has stayed clear, the other one has fogged up again.

Thanks for that! I'll check mine tomorrow. I'm not 100% sure the RLTC is working properly, I've been getting noticeable wheelspin at higher speeds in the wet. Definately worth checking out.

90240-06019

I've got a Defi 2 control unit so you can look at the peak value and also record the boost levels. I went out for a drive earlier, I did get it to go upto 1.2 bar once but tried again and it it would only just go past 1.0 bar. There's plenty of power there and it's accelerating great. Sometimes you can become paranoid and look for problems, I'll have another drive tomorrow.

Thanks for that. I only removed the pipes connecting to the intercooler. But just to be sure I might disconnect the inlet pipe that goes down to the intercooler and the one that goes into the throttle body in order to pressure test that section. Thought about getting a rubber inner tube say about 3" in diameter, cutting it to make a long tube and then securing it to the pipe work in the engine bay and then using the valve to pump it up to say 1.2 bar to see if it maintains the pressure. I might need some duct tape wrapped around the tube though to stop it fom over inflating.

I don't anymore, not when it comes to predicting bad weather conditions.

Bugger! Yep! I did make sure the connections on the intercooler were snug and tight, I would be surprised if they were leaking! Is it possible to pressurise the system and see if it maintains it, see what I can do tomorrow.

Anyone ?

Pogues & Kirsty McColl - Fairytale of New York

Just hope there'll be some new threads worth reading.

Just fitted my new CW SMIC , the car is performing great with plenty of power. But the boost has dropped from peaking at just over 1.2 bar to now just over 1 bar. What causes this, is it a less restrictive core with the air flow increasing through it. Or is it a more efficient intercooler with cooler charge temps? Does this indicate things are working better?

I couldn't really get it shaped to the curve though without making some release cuts for the bulges in the plastic where you have a compound curve. I'm not sure if heat would have helped , the material was fairly thick.

I'm not totally familiar with the smaller J spec brake, but AFAIK know they don't have these pins that you knock out. I know the UK brakes do, they were a pain to remove on mine. From what I remember the pins were just over 6mm.

I got some from Demon Tweeks, not easy to apply when you've got a 3d curve though.

Check this thread out, he does mail order. http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/showthread.php?t=41383&highlight=manley

Looks really nice, don't change anything!

I've got one on my 97 car, it's very nice!