merckx
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Everything posted by merckx
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They're not totally wrong in what they say. It's a little childish though to go and take a photo and post it for criticism, haven't they got anything better to do?
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It's the same and will still work.
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Why would anyone say that this isn't a good idea, two of them?
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You could split the wire and use a couple of diodes to stop both indicators coming on when you use them when driving. The diodes allow the current to flow from the alarm wire but would isolate the left and right sides. I'm not sure what type though. Matt Harwood on here fits alarms for a living, I'm sure he could give you an answer straight away.
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LOL , I've just realised that would happen. You would have to use some diodes to prevent that . I would check the connections on the back of the hazard switch with a multimeter or tester to find the one that goes +12v when the hazards are on.
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5 flashes is the positive door circuit, ie it's gone to 12v when a door is opened. Ian , I've got the User and Install manuals for the Toad ai606. If you want them then pm me your email address and I'll send them to you
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I had 2 wires coming from my Toad alarm , they went to the indicator wires which are at the fuse box at the right side of the drivers footwell. White connector at bottom left. green/yellow and green/black both with silver band Worth checking them fist with a multimeter to confirm. Not sure if you can split your wire to go to the 2 points. When I fitted the alarm on the van I just had the one wire which I connected to a point on the back of the hazard switch.
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Where can I get some quality front nose cone mesh?
merckx replied to Mike B's topic in mkiv Technical
Wish I could get the mesh and front end to look like this xkr Jag. Don't think it would be easy. -
Buy the standard Toyota spoiler if you haven't got one fitted, it's heavy . Steel, probably stainless.
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Here's one if you haven't already seen it. http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/1993-TOYOTA-SUPRA-Twin-Turbo-UK-Model_W0QQitemZ4615022556QQcategoryZ18290QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
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Either of the Ebay ones would fit. They're both for the US non-turbo which use the same brakes as your car. They'll be heavy, postage might be expensive.
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I know you didn't, only kidding!
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No it doesn't, I just made it up !
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Got what she deserved then, putting other motorists at danger.
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Worth checking for fault codes, this can indicate if something isn't working properly. You can do this yourself. Click here
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Sounds very normal to me, mine is just the same. It's only really noticeable on the wet setting and on the dry setting you are hardly know it's working.
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Don't think the SMIC is capable of swallowing and cooling the larger volume of air as a FMIC would be, this would be necessary for some of the single turbo's. It's down to air flow capacity where the FMIC would have an advantageous , but not if you had the standard bumper fitted as the aperture is restrictive. I don't think there's any definite answers to this quandary .
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Looks so much nicer without that thing stuck on the back!
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Put the link in the box and click OK. It will then put the link on the screen together with what it will appear like in blue. Replace the blue section with "Click here" etc I only figured this out recently.
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Where can I get some quality front nose cone mesh?
merckx replied to Mike B's topic in mkiv Technical
or http://www.espdesign.co.uk/esp.storefront/EN/Product/38801 -
Just had a look at my new manual. Disconnect the fuel pump connector, it's near the spare wheel (front/left corner). Then start the engine and run until it stops.
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Considerably cheaper.
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Too compact and squashed. Very similar proportions to a 350Z.
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Looks too fat. Needs to be wider and longer to make it more imposing.
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Car looks okay, reasonable price aswell. All depends on condition etc.
