merckx

A little short of money! Thanks Steve , nice to know how the wastegate operates.

Thanks for that Steve, it makes sense now! If I did fit the bleed valve then it shouldn't matter which hose on the acuator I make the connection to? I'm confused as to why quite a few members prefer the bleed valve, Chris Wilson does and he's got a fair bit of knowledge. If I fitted a ball and spring boost controller and for some reason it didn't open then the wastegate wouldn't open at all. Everyone appears to have different opinions on which is best.

I've got a restrictor ring fitted, the pressure dropped to 1.0 bar after sitting a new SMIC. I would rather have something I can adjust instead of opening up the restrictor ring.

I've been trying to figure out the reasons for putting a bleed valve in to increase the boost a little. I want to increase it from 1.0 bar which I'm getting now with my full decat to 1.2 bar. Am I correct in thinking that a sensor measures the boost pressure and a pre-determined level 12v is applied to the wategate VSV which then opens. This allows boost pressure which is already present at the actuator to then pass through it and so open it up. So if I put a bleed valve in the location marked by the cross. The VSV will still open at the set boost pressure but even if you bleed a little air off , the actuator will still start to operate even if the pressure acing on it may be less. So in effect the acuator would still operate at a much lower pressure if the VSV was open. By fitting a bleed valve you're not delaying the actuator from opening at all but reducing the pressure acting on it a little. [img]http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y122/rexmerckx/Vacuum.jpg[/img]

Yes, here it is.

Hi Can anyone please confirm the position for fitting a bleed valve. I've done a search but I'm still not 100%. I'm thinking Hose 1. Hose 1 - the input to the VSV Hose 2 - the output of the VSV which goes to the wastegate actuator. Thanks

Anyone who get's close to 50 is a liar!

It really pisses me off too, they nearly always get away with it aswell. More and more just resort to violence without even thinking of the consequences. I would love to be a vigilante and give scum like this what they deserve!

All Supra's 1993 and after are MK IV.

They all look stupid!

But from May 95 it changes , RZ re-labelled as RZS RZ now has 17" wheels, bigger brakes All very confusing!

I use the NGK - BKR7E (6097), probably overkill for a NA. Check this out, a list NGK plugs for the NA aswell. http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/showthread.php?t=41927

Hi Some model info here :- http://mkiv.supras.org.nz/specs.htm and here I think the larger brakes that you get with some models is an advantage, other than that there aren't any real worthwhile differences. Most Jap Supra's had the smaller brakes but some had the larger ones (same as UK spec cars) . I'm sure the RZ's came with the larger ones as standard, others had them fitted as optional extra's or later on by the owner. If I was looking into getting another Supra then condition, mileage , color , nice wheels etc would come first.

I get NGK's from Partco, about £10.60 a set of 6 They're widely used on Supra's.

The tax on fuel will never be reduced significantly , it would just encourage people even more to buy cars with unnecessarily large engines that pollute the environment which isn't good. We drive around in 400 bhp + machines which is just a little excessive.

I've got a good boost gauge with a warning setting, I'll be definately keeping a sharp eye on it.

Quite a few on here think they're better, Chris Wilson prefers them. He's got a fair amount of experience!

A boost controller would be good, but I'm not prepared to spend that sort of money if a bleed valve will work. I'll be very careful when adjusting it.

I used to get 1.2 bar until I fitted the new and more efficient SMIC , getting 1.0 bar now. I though about enlarging the restrictor ring but fitting the bleed valve will allow me to adjust it with the changes in outside temperature throughout the year.

Funny!

Hi Yes , you can get 6 speed manual VVTI and Tiptronic versions. Can't imagine there would be an issue around the transmission shift stick area. You would have to get a VVTI ECU aswell. I can't imagine why you would want to do this anyway, the VVTI engine gives you a little more power and low down torque. But I think I would spend the money elsewhere - single turbo (600 bhp) , much easier to get the parts and much more satisfying!

Nice engine! Think I would of made up the difference somehow and got an M5.

With any size wheel you're still trying to keep the diameter of the tyre close to the stock size. So having a 19" wheel isn't a problem, you just use a tyre with a smaller sidewall. But with fitting any aftermarket wheel you've got to use the correct offset and width.

MK 3 unfortunately.