merckx

Uk spec brakes front and rear, nipple size is M10 x 1.0 J spec brakes front and rear, nipple size is M7 x 1.0

Thanks, I'll just go for the underseal then.

Thanks Jellybean Yes, I was looking at the Dinitrol Shultz underseal and I was surprised that it comes out of the gun with a gloss finish. The UPol Gravitex stonechip (black) is a nice matt very dark grey finish which I may put on top.

I've had little bits of rust in the wheel arches (around the suspension) and underneath, so I've decided to do it properly and remove everything back to bare metal. I'm using 3 coats of Por 15 paint but I'm not sure what to use as a final layer underneath the car, I'll be using stonechip in the wheel arches and was thinking should I use this underneath aswell or use an underseal. So, I planned to use Upol Gravitex Stonechip or should I use Dinitrol stonechip, it's more expensive. Should I use stone chip underneath or an underseal (underbody wax) such as Dinitrol, will this give provide better sound deadening? Thanks

It's easier to remove the turbo elbow/ downpipe to work on it.

The pre-facelift headlights have sidelights in the unit. The facelift indicators have sidelights in the unit. So, it's possible you could have both or just one of the above. Too slow!

You can leave the brake hose connected to the caliper and press the brake pedal to use hydraulic pressure to push them out. Remove the pads. Unbolt the caliper from the hub. Remove the disc. Bolt the caliper back to the hub to hold it in place while you're working on it. If you now pressed the brake pedal the pistons could come flying out and maybe just one and not both! So, you need to use a block of wood or similar to replace the discs and pads combined (a little narrower at a time and this will only allow the pistons to come out gradually. Obviously make sure it cannot fall out. Easier to get someone else to now press the brake pedal, you can see how the pistons are pushing out. One piston may come out before the other. You can use a pair of mole grips or something similar to pull the other out the last bit but you've got make sure you don't damage the piston. I would wrap the piston with a fair amount of tape first.

You would obviously need to print it to scale, probably not that much use as the wheels should clear the brakes but maybe touch the front wheel arch.

If you look on the Rays website, +27 offset is only available in Face 1, +37 offset is only available in Face 2. On my car I have UK brakes with: Front ... 9 x 8.5 offset +39 High type A FACE 1 tyres...245/35 19 Rear ... 19 x 9.5 offset +37 Mid Type B FACE 2 tyres...275/30 19 The front isn't a perfect fit, the wheel needs to come out further towards the wheel arch. Reducing the offset from 39 would achieve this. I cannot take any measurements on my car it as I don't have any front suspension on it. The rear wheel/tyre is a good fit. If the wheels that are for sale aren't fitted to the car he could always use a courier to send you one front wheel to try on your car.To send one wheel/tyre in the UK isn't particularly expensive, I obviously don't know about Norway.

haha... They haven't got a clue, it's no different to any other manual gearbox that I've driven.

They'll have screws that'll do the job but if you want to replace the screws that're visible when the dashboard is all in place they won't have any that look the same as the original screws. I'm familiar with with all the fixings they sell, same goes for all the diy shops. Have a look on their website, every product is there to view. I have a few missing from mine, it's not necessary to have them all there to hold the separate dashboard pieces in place. Plenty of similar screws on ebay. http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_sop=15&_sacat=0&_nkw=black+self+tapping&_pgn=2&_skc=50&rt=nc

I've you had removed the reas shocks all together (not easy) with the pipes valves etc you could've sold them as they look in very good condition, I've removed mine as they're all rusty. They provide great ride quality on 19" wheels. Once they're removed and they're depressurised there's no info for filling them with hydraulic fluid and gas etc.

It could be, you can buy kits to refurbish the starter motor. http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/showthread.php?171710-ebay-starter-motor-refurb-kit

You need to do exactly what Bob said. You shouldn't need to use excessive force, with the disc coming away from the hub for say 10mm or so relatively easily and then they getting stuck is a classic case of not winding back the shoes. When you turn the star type wheel it retracts the brake shoes away from the drum which you have to do as the shoes wear themselves into the drum as both the drum and shoes wear. I always forget which way to turn the star type wheel like Bob said so you may have to change direction. Obviously an indication that you've turned it in the incorrect direction is that you won't be able to rotate the disc.

Some on Ebay over here. http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_nkw=lexus++wheel+centre&_sacat=0&_odkw=lexus+gs300+wheel&_sop=15&_osacat=0&_from=R40

Frame number. http://mkiv.supras.org.nz/specs.htm

I got mine on Ebay. Also on here, register (free) to see the parts diagrams. http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/showthread.php?179559-Online-Toyota-electronic-parts-catalogue

It could be the battery. I've never had any problems with my Toad draining a reasonable condition battery though even with the car standing for 5 or 6 weeks.

Mole grips, locking pliers, self grip pliers - they have a few different names. Don't buy the cheap ones as they're rubbish to use, the "Vise-Grip" ones are good. http://www.amazon.co.uk/Vise-Grip-01-10R-Visegrip-Locking/dp/B00004YO5K/ref=sr_1_1?s=diy&ie=UTF8&qid=1338303549&sr=1-1

The mother and father of six children who died in a house fire in Derby have been arrested on suspicion of murder. http://www.bbc.co.uk/news/uk-england-derbyshire-18250397 An attempt to get a new house?

Exhilarating to say the least.

You need to register to see the pics - it's free.

You did say "Cable to gauge side".

http://www.supraforums.com/forum/showthread.php?619503-Pic-request-AEM-UEGO-Wiring-harness.