merckx

Yes. You don't necessarily have to remove the paint if you want to paint them another colour, unless you made a mess of them the first time around.

Yes, that's it. It's a while since I did mine, but I think the adjustment was in the middle. The bracket is there just to hold it in the correct position after adjustment. There might be a plastic collar in the middle, if you have a good look you'll figure out how it works. Unless you're missing something.

http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/showthread.php?t=148383

For the TT 17173 - 46040 17198 - 46010

Exhaust manifold to head?

http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/showpost.php?p=1848395&postcount=2

A:.... 90917-06056 B:.... 90917-06045 C:.... 90917-06043 D:.... 90917-06055 I'm not sure if you get one or two with each part number as some are the same.

I just worked my way along pulling it loose.Obviously you have to remove the plastic cage which runs over the top first, I think this might've been bolted on.

It's not expensive, £19.82 over a year ago. I had to replace mine as I couldn't remove the banjo bolt from the filter, apparently some get overtightened in the factory and flare out.

It should cost less than £20 for a garage to fit the 2nd one. The 1st cat is a little awkward to fit, a socket with a long extension with a universal joint is useful. Easy when you've done it a few times though. I always put my car up on ramps which gives me plenty of room to work, I wouldn't like to do it at axle stand height. I suppose doing stuff like this depends on how competent you are with a spanner, the problem with removing the first cat is that there is a possibility that you may shear off a stud.

I've got the Reas suspension but I'm not sure if all the late Supra's have it. I haven't noticed anything in the engine bay.

I always use methylated spirit, warm up the sticky stuff with a hairdyer and it will come off easier.

Get the Lexus ones that Michael fitted, much better than the stock ones. http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/showthread.php?t=52723&highlight=washer&page=3

RLTC. It works. Stock TC. Absolutely pathetic, it's hard to believe that a major car manufacturer would put this on a car with over 300bhp. It's so easy to lose the backend even when you're taking it easy, it's happened to me a couple of times and I always drive cautiously.

Yes, correct. The stock rear wheels, 17" ones are 9.5" wide with a 50mm offset. Obviously lowering the offset will bring the wheel out away from the hub. I've got 19's on the rear, 9.5" wide , 275/30 tyres with a 37mm offset and they sit just nice relative to the arch.

Fixed, no more smoke.

I don't recall needing to know his when I fitted mine, the traction control works by monitoring the difference between the front and rear as a percentage.

If you remove the door card you'll see an adjuster at the bottom, this will move the top of the window in or out as required. I can't remember exactly what the adjuster looks like but there's a plastic collar of some sort fitted over it. Infact you can adjust the glass in every direction with the other fasteners.

Yes if you want the clear ones.

I was wondering about that too.

Here's a pic.

Thanks for the reply Chris. I decided to get a new one which will come tomorrow, £480 which isn't that much more than the cost of getting it rebuilt which was going to take three or four days plus I haven't really got the time to wait. What a pain in the arse it was to remove though, the van has a transverse engine , you can get to the turbo from underneath but only at arms length which is the main problem . I could only use a spanner as there was no room for a socket, impossible to get any leverage on the spanner with my arm outstretched. All the nuts were far too tight, I used a spanner and attached some strong cord up into the engine bay and got my brother to pull it with finally loosened the nuts.

52k for a car that looks like that.