merckx

Not again.

The diagram that came with the light switch is hopeless, is the terminal at the bottom labled? This is how a normal mains switch is wired. The twin and earth cable would go through the switch back box. Where are you connecting it to the mains, you could've just fitted a 13 amp plug to the cable and switch it at the mains socket?

Here's a bike shop that does resprays, it's not really worth the hastle of doing them yourself. http://www.daveyatescycles.co.uk/repairs.htm

What about moving the steering wheel left and right a little?

What a fool. How did he manage to do that on a 30 mph road?

If you pm me your email address I'll send you the user and installation manuals if you don't already have them.

You'll need the pin code according to the installation manual.

Is it just me or does the bore (hole) in the wheel look tapered?

lol

This would be the best way to go about it if you want it to remain trouble free.

A sensible colour to paint them.

A4 100 grade bolts are one of the stronger stainless bolts but will require a higher torque than the lower grade ones. Using threadlock will lubricate the threads before it hardens and this will reduce the tightening torque that's needed. 15ft lbs might be just about right if lubricating the threads with threadlock.

Sensible. I'm always surprised at how many airbag steering wheels are replaced with wheels that done have them.

You'll obviously need sound.

Thanks for the reply Chris. Unfortunately you cannot get to the bearing, the two parts are pressed together. More expense.

Very true. It's so easy to take your family and friends for granted, especially those who are the closest to you. A close work colleague lost his wife to ovarian cancer last year, she was only 52.

I don't like it, too much metal and it obviously doesn't have an airbag!!!!!!!!

Over the weekend I've been working on the front suspension of my van, I've taken off the spring/damper assembly to investigate the deep squeaking noises that I'm getting when I turn the wheel. On top of the spring there's a plate then a needle bearing on top and then another plate which bolts to the engine bay of the van, this will allow he spring to turn. The damper shaft goes through both plates and is obviously held in place by a nut. There is a bearing in the top plate which should allow the damper to rotate wen you turn the wheel.The only thing that I'm not sure about is that it doesn't rotate very easy at all when I turn it by hand. So I'm wondering if this bearing is pre-loaded so that it only rotates freely when the weight of the van is pushing down on it?

I didn't use them at the normal location for holding it though, there was already rust at the top of the damper shaft which is hidden by the plastic stop so the grip marks left by the mole grips didn't matter anyway.

What a stupid mistake from Raikkonen.

You've got to blame the parents and the way they're brought up. Some parents shouldn't be allowed to have kids.

I've done it. I used mole grips on the top of the shaft under the top mount after sliding down the plastic boots and bump stop.

Yes, looks like I'll be modifying a socket to fit. I've tried an open ended spanner but it's just opening up and slipping off.

I've just removed the spring/damper assembly on the van so I can replace the top bearing. The threaded damper shaft obviously has a nut which I want to remove but I need a special socket to hold the shaft while I loosen the nut. There's just a couple of flats on the shaft, the only trouble is that the nut and shaft are recessed down below the top mount. Is there a special socket that I can buy to use with a wrench that has the profile shown below. Thanks 8mm across the flats