Lee Burley

Hi Add, Thanks for that. So they were boosting ok when on your car? Where are you in hampshire? I might be able to pop over on Saturday and get them off you... Cheers Lee

Hi Add, Have you still got the turbos? When you say refurbed, what work has been carried out, and are they still ceramic? Cheers lee

Can you let me know how much it would be for a pair then please Cheers Lee

Are these still for sale?

I would certainly be interested in a pair of them for mine. Same price would be great too!

Put me down for one please! 1. Nizam 2. Caseys 3. turnerjr 4.suprash 5. Lee Burley

On the brake fluid front, I will pump some fluid through the bleed nipple and top it back up again and see if that cures it. At the moment it looks very full... maybe a dicky switch on the reservoir! Cheers Lee

Hi Terry, Yes it has been a while! I will regap the plugs down a bit and see if that cures it. I am still confused/concerned why i get the warning triangle at part throttle when all seems fine, yet a misfire at high boost and no warning lights! The misfire is quite noticeable, but the old girl will still get to 130+ without too much worry, so its not like hitting fuel cut. Obviously this was tested on my private road, with adult supervision. if I cant suss it out, I will probably book it in with your good self for a bit of TLC!

Chaps, Plugs are ngk bcpr7es as recommended by Leon and others, boost is around 1.2bar, oil level looks good, plugs all looked a good colour and gapped at 0.035", so nothing obviously amiss.... Also, its been running fine in this state of tune for over a year, but only recently started to misbehave.

My TT has developed a nasty misfire at high boost/speed, and I get the warning triangle coming up at irregular intervals. Strange thing is I dont get the two together, and it doesnt seem to be logging a fault code (no ECU light on either). I have removed/cleaned/regapped the plugs, dropped in a new air filter, checked the piping for anything obvious. I gapped the plugs as per the BPU gap on the mkiv.com website. It still pulls like a train up to the misfire point which comes in high up the rev range, but only on lots of throttle. The warning triangle appears usually when cruising, but only lights for a few seconds, then goes away. When misfiring, there is still plenty of boost, and the EGT doesnt look any different from normal. In short... I havent a clue what is going on. I have also had two tanks of petrol through it, which is always Optimax/Octane Booster. If you can think of anything, post back, otherwise I am going to have to take it to Leon or Terry to have is professionally fettled. Spec is: Hybrid Turbos, HKS S FMIC, FCD, SLD, HKS Hyper, No Cats, and I always run Optimax and Millers Octane Booster.

Is that Fish Brothers in Swindon? I am sure I paid a lot less than that for my last service.

Ian, Please can you post the exact parts you ordered from J-Marks, and if you dont mind posting the prices, that would be cool. Have you gone for just injectors + ballast resistor, or have you gone for pump etc aswell? Ta.

How do you order from MVP, when I get to the checkout it wont let me select any of the delivery options!

I meant the plastic tube which goes through the inner wing. I guess thats the right one because the others are easy to get off.... so easy that they usually come off by themselves!

Yep EGTs, the lower the better. As for the MOT, you are on the verge of not needing CATS on a '93. Even if you do need to put them back on, the other 364 days of the year can be catless. Before you do anything, get a decent boost guage fitted. I cant stress this enough. Without one, you are too much in the dark about what the car is doing. If you do just get rid of No1, get a CW pipe fitted. It will still get through emissions that way, and boost should be nicely controlled. But I still think you should get rid of them both. (Edited by Lee Burley at 2:32 pm on April 4, 2002)

It is a real bugger to get out but you should pull it out from the top, and rotate it as you pull it out. Eventually you get the right combination if turning and pulling and it comes out. You then have the frustration of not being able to get it back in despite being the one who finally removed it! Has anyone got any further with getting an HKS replacement for this bit in the UK? I want one!

Cat Back: From the back end of No2 Cat backwards. You keep both cats, example would be a HKS Hiper. Gets rid of the twin pipe section and the nasty backbox, replacing it with an outrageous drainpipe with little regard to silencing! Full System: Right from the manifold to the tailpipe, example would be the mongoose, or a Hiper + Cat replacement pipes. Chris Wilson Pipes: Two pipes to replace No1 and No2 cat. Can be added separately or in pairs. HKS Cat pipes: only replaces one cat, so you can use one CW and the HKS. All quite straightforward. UK Spec: Take out both cats, and boost should still be reasonable. Jap Spec: Take out both cats and you might get creep, unless you fit Chris's 2.5" pipes. It varies from car to car. Its still better to get both out, even if you need a restrictor plate, since your EGTs will be a lot lower (engine not needing to pump exhaust through the cats) My opinion: Get the cats out. Both of em. Big grin guaranteed.

Lust2luv, I know of a local garage who have a very relaxed interpretation to many areas of the MOT I spent two hours putting my cats back on for them to forget to test them Cheers

It is usually the turbine in the exhaust which fails, and it just disappears off down the exhaust. The top of my No1 cat caught the remains, and looked like it had been shot with a 12 bore! With no cats you could spit the bits clean out of the exhaust. If the intake wheel fails, the bits would have to make it through the intercooler piping before they got to damage any expensive bits. This wheel has a much easier life than the one dangling out into the exhaust gases, so is much less likely to fail anyway.

The other thing is that you end up with a trophy failed turbo to show off to your friends... Problem is when you tell people you keep a plastic bag with your old number two in it, no-one seems all that interested :)

So, you have no trouble codes stored, and No1 will produce some boost... That means I suspect one of the following... 1) One of the myriad of small pipes has cracked or has come off. I doubt that any of the large intercooler hoses are off or split because it would most likely not build boost at all. Concentrate on the circuits which switch in and out the No2 turbo because it looks like as soon as it comes on line you are venting off all the pressure. If you are in North London, I suggest you have a chat with Leon Green in Watford. When I had a problem with mine I took it over to him and he tested the VSVs, then wired it up as a true twin with an external guage, which allowed him to fault find. Unfortunately, he found out that I had the problem (2) below! 2) You no longer have anything attached to No2 turbo spindle. Where there used to be a turbine blade, there is only fresh air. Prepare to cry like a baby, and get to a cashpoint. Good news is... you can go for hybrids, and if you want to know whether that would be money well spent.... ask BradB

Finally got on-line after the easter break.... I cannot believe toyota didnt spot the fault, if they had felt around the intercooler pipework they would have felt that the bottom hose on the passenger side had come off. The only reason it took so long to fix was that the engine was still bloody hot! It was interesting to go out for a spin in a stock TT, I havent done so in a long time. It certainly felt different to mine . Good job Lust2Luv wasnt out on Friday morning since we were "testing" down his favourite new piece of road. Brad, if you want help with the addition of a boost guage, give me a shout.

Brad, Drop me a line to [email protected]. i am in Swindon, and can probably help you out. Lee (Edited by Lee Burley at 10:20 am on Mar. 27, 2002)

If you have got a stone through the SMIC then dont panic, there are quite a few stock intercoolers lying around, like the one in my loft. Come to think of it I will have a whole set of piping to go with it apart from the connection onto the turbos.

Without a boost guage on the car you are really going to be guessing where to start, but the cheap and easy way to do it is to roll up your sleeves and start feeling all the piping, hoses and clamps from the injector intakes down to the intercooler. Be quite rough with them and pull them about a bit, because if they are loose then they will blow off at some time in the future so you may as well fix them now. The plastic tubes which run across the bottom of the car just above the plastic sump cover were a favorite place for a leak, as was the top connector to the intercooler at the left hand side. When I fitted my FMIC, all the piping was replaced except the top pipe onto the turbos.... at least I now only have one place to look when a pipe comes off! You dont need any special skill to fault find the piping, just patience, arms like a gibbon, and lots of germoline for your skinned knuckles. Oh, and dont be tempted to try it with the car hot (or running)!