jot_ie

Looks likes there is a bit of a choice for Intercoolers and Rads Still need to source an AC Rad/Condenser panel. Any aftermarket ones anybody knows about?

I was hoping for one with the piping as a complete kit. Mine was an old Greddy 3 row, and I don't think my piping will fit with the Mishimoto unfortunately, but many thanks anyway

Was just having a look at Whifbitz Site. Rad and Intercooler Listed but no AC Rad

Hi All I am looking at replacing all radiating panels at the front of my car, It's a 98 tt 6spd. Unfortunately Toyota no longer stock the OEM Radiator or Air Con Condenser Panels. I also need a new Front Mount Intercooler Any recommendations on the best ones and where to buy greatly appreciated. Many Thanks

Fabulous Car :-)

Hi Your first calculations are pretty good. I have work wheels in approx those sizes except mine are 18" .... far more comfortable than 19's and better handling in my opinion. 18x9.5 et 37 265/35/18 and 18x11.5 et 49 315/30/18. Rear arches rolled. Going with too high an offset on the rear 50+ will cause rubbing on the springs/suspension and inner bodywork. Your more aggressive offsets will not work, the wheels will stick out well past the bodywork, especially the rears, unless you have a wide body setup. I am not familiar with those calipers so can't comment on clearance. Maybe somebody else ......

Maybe a home foundry style melting crucible, for those temps.

Its a real pain in the ass for sure. Don't need the thing most days of the year here. As mine is a daily, I use it for going to meetings etc.. Turning up in a room full of suits looking like a drowned rat isn't my best look Wait till you see, soon as it's fixed it will rain for the rest of the summer. Anyway. Did the tests, resistance across terminals 1 and 2 188 ohms. Specs are between 160-220. Spot on. Jump the clutch from the battery via terminal 4, it engages. Happy days. Just need to check the female connector and make sure power is getting that far. I'm hoping its just a low charge pressure now.

Did that yesterday. got error code no 3. normal. Just found the cooling service manual. Describes a way to check the clutch. Lead from the battery positive + to terminal 4 on the connector. Lead from battery negative - to the compressor body. If the clutch engages compressor is fine and system probably just needs a re-charge. If it doesn't then the compressor needs a new clutch.

It probably does need a top up or better still a full re-charge. But before doing that I am trying to see if the compressor clutch is gone, as I will have to discharge the system in order to fix it. Just need to try to force the clutch to engage as proof it's working.

Hi. Yeah, tried the "russian spanner" approach. Gave it a few smacks with the engine off first, just in case it had seized a bit. Then with the engine running and air con on. No luck. I'm miles away from you I'm afraid. I am in West Wicklow.

So, been having a fabulous few days of 25 degrees and over, not complaining, it doesn't happen very often and I do love the summertime. But getting into a car with leather seat inserts that must be close to 40+ degrees aint funny anymore. And when I actually need it on these rare occasions here in Ireland, the air con doesn't work. It could do with a re-gas, not a problem, but for the moment the compressor clutch isn't engaging So I tried all the tests. Check fuses:- No 2 in the footwell - good No 17 in the footwell - good Engage compressor clutch:- no 42 in the engine bay - good. tried crossing this. mg clt relay in the engine bay - good. Swapped this with the fog relay, that I knew was working. (And vise versa) Whats next? Melting here!!!

It seems to have been fitted correctly. There was no unusual movement at all prior to removing it. Just a low rough noise when rotated. Yes just the one wheel, rear passenger side. I had the other side checked and that's all fine. I am hoping that it was just a flawed bearing, unusual, but I suppose time will tell. I will be keeping an eye on them over the coming weeks. It wasn't still under warranty. I had bought it in with all the other suspension components 2 years ago. I had a lot of other repair work to do to the car and had to get it to a moving state. It hardly moved other than about 20 metres up and down the street to the local garage until last October when I finally managed to get it through all the requirements to put it back on the road. But because I had bought so many parts over the last few years from Toyota, they just gave me two new ones free of charge. The parts manager in the dealership is just a rock solid guy.

Yes indeed. They come greased from Toyota.

Perhaps a weak or badly formed ball bearing. All it takes is one small flaw to set of a chain reaction. Yeah, friction from the bad ball bearing burned the grease it would appear.

I'm thinking just bad luck.

Right Worst bearing (noisy one) changed. No wear to either of the inner or outer rings, on any of the surfaces. However when I rotate the bearing I can hear a noise. Garage is of the opinion that one or more of the ball bearings inside is damaged, and said that the grease is black and burned on one side. There was no "play" while the bearing was on the car, so no movement meaning the bearing was fitted correctly. Hub and axle carrier unmarked, all seals intact and in place. Faulty bearing????????

The offsets on my rear wheels is 49, so 1mm off stock and I don't run spacers. Garages would be very quick to use the "aftermarket wide wheels excuse" to cover shoddy workmanship though. I'm thinking they didn't tighten the nut on the driveshaft properly. It's the only thing I can think of as all the components were brand new, hubs, bearings, axle carriers, clips, dust shields, clips, nuts, bolts etc etc.

Brand new rear bearings FOC from Toyota. Have read all the installation instructions from various sources, including repair manual. Any other tips or tricks???. Due to be fitted in the morning.

Will do. Many thanks

Many thanks for that. If this happens again I will do exactly that. I spoke with Toyota yesterday and they are giving me 2 new rear bearings. They will be in on Thursday. In fairness I can't praise them enough. They are more than helpful, and with very sizeable discounts. Hopefully I can get them fitted on Friday. See what happens.

That's a question I have for the garage that installed the bearings, as there are really only 2 factors I'm thinking. Quality of the bearing and the installation. Has to be one or the other. I think its 289nm according to the repair manual. I suppose I just needed to know if others with wider wheels encountered such failures.

I brought it to my local garage. The guy there is very good and has been very helpful throughout my rebuild. He pressed the new bearings and hubs into the axel carriers. I saw him do it and he was very careful He said there is a noise coming from the rear right. I then checked it myself. Took off the brake disc just in case that was rubbing off the dust sheild. Noise still there though. So sounds like the bearing is gone. He also said there is a tiny bit of play on the passenger side Local garage. That's good to hear, as I was concerned that it was the wider wheels. Ohh I have had my fair share of woes with the NCT. In order to get the car back on the road it had to have passed it's NCT. First time round they failed it as the said the rear wheels were rubbing off the springs. Brought it straight to Toyota, they put it on a ramp and checked it. Nothing wrong Brought it to a different NCT centre, passed no problems. It has never passed first time, always something .. just bring it somewhere else and it passes. But on this occasion it looks like they are right. I just cant figure out whey they are both gone/going. Pressing in a bearing is straightforward and pretty much foolproof with the right tools. All the c-clips and dust shields were new as well, even the driveshaft on the rear passenger side was new. Faulty bearings ...... old stock ...... ?????

Having recently gotten my car back on the road (last October), after it was stolen and damaged, it went for it's annual NCT (same as MOT) yesterday. They failed it on the grounds that both rear wheel bearings were worn. Is this even possible, as all the rear suspension components were changed while I was rebuilding it. Brand new hubs, axle carriers, bearings, control arms, handbrake shoes and springs/clips, literally everything in the rear wheel arches, both sides, even the handbrake cables and abs sensors. All brand new bolts and washers as well, and all straight from a Toyota main dealer. I also bought new wheels and tyres. 11.5's in the rear and 9.5's in front I did realise that these would be harder on the bearings than a standard wheel, but jeez 7 months, and it's not like I was putting up huge mileage or doing track days. There's only 5500-6000km on them The ones that were on it would have been about 13-14 years old prior to it being stolen and were still perfect, and running wider than standard wheels, but as I was buying all new suspension I figured I might as well get new bearings to go with it I know there are quite a few running wider than standard wheels. Has anyone else found this kind of problem with bearings?

Just had a look back over my invoices. These are all the panels except for the panel that houses the window switches on the drivers door. All prices are for facelift tt rhd 6spd manual. 55410-14520 - Instrument cluster (the curved bit that sits over the the dials and just under the top of the dash). €108.04 55420-14050 - Instrument cluster (the bit that sits around the dials) €56.42 55404-14560 - righ hand panel (the one with the ignition) €54.79 55405-14160 - Left hand panel (the one with the radio and heater controls) €127.82 55432-14261-C0 - Black trim (The black panel with the diagnostic port and bonnet release) €117.69 58804-14040 - Gear surround panel (mine is a 6spd manual) €146.60 74102-14130 - ash tray €45.16 Total not including vat €656.52 + vat @23% €807.52 Also note that the above includes a generous 20% discount that I get from Toyota on all bits that I buy. Ohh and another €7.50 for screws. I bought all new ones.