dk_supra

Joko, whaz up old buddie, are U following my tuning habbits? Now got a 2JZ after all those cars M3, 5 series, NSX, VR6, . About your tuning issue we'll talk online or u can call me of course on my cell. Something about AEM on the VVti Anyway i guess we talk about everything. Cheers Dimitri

well i did a full decat with just 3" pipe and a silencer in the back setup on my brother's TT and it sounds pretty ok. . . . Compared of course to my 4" single turbo setup. Which sounds like a Hayabusa with really loud exhausts. Interesting to go through tunnels and people tell you, that they thought that either a 'busa or an RD500 was passing by and then they turned and it was the red Sup, flying low.

HKS Triple 850rpm set on the AEM at 13.5:1 A/F ratio and no rattle, only rattles when I engage the A/C at 850. If I go at 900rpm with or without, no rattle as well. Always happy, but if I set it at 650rpm , it sounds like a diesel taxi. Dimitri

Terry, when I first played with clutches, I was talking with Chris from HPFR, and he send me couple of solutions to try and see. I'm picky I know, but my customers in Detroit were Doctors, Lawyers, people that give you a blank check to fix the car and if you f@ck them up then there is always the river in Detroit. So after trying Chris discs I was not so impressed (very tiring to drive, and very for low mileage for the street) and I said stock disc and plate or the big mama's clutches for high performance. Chris had back in the days the carbon material on the MKIV clutches but now he took it out, after I tested it and I told what was the damage created. Cheers, Dimitri

If you still have time, go to the dealer and get a stock disc. The helix will eat the guts out of the flywheel and the pressure plate in about 6-10,000 miles. And whoever says no way, call anywhere and ask for a warranty on the affected parts. Only the stock disc becomes consumable the others are scrape the surfaces of each side, not good. I have tried Puk designs with 4 puks, 6 puks Carbon (destroyed the flywheel and the plate in 2,000miles) Ceramic (Lasted for 7,000miles, then everything was junk) Half and half material (by some company in the states, it's a POS) Organic material like stock (It just slips, POS also) If you can still avoid it, there is time. Plus it jiggles the car too much. Dimitri

So either stock, or just a pressure plate, or something like the HKS triple Exedy RPS carbon/carbon Tilton (too drag racing for me) OS Giken that's it. Dimitri

After years of trial and error, on my and my customers cars, I found out two things There is no way one can have a clutch with better drivability than stock and also if you go to something radical, why not go all the way. Dimitri

Easy fix Ray. Pop the following things out. The check engine, ABS, TRAC moduleon the left of the dash, open it up and resolder all the solder joints. Somewhere there is couple of cold solder (cracked solder joints). After that you need to pop the relays on the left of the engine bay for the trac and abs (4 items). Open them up carefully and with a very thin sandpaper clean the realy inside on the lock point. After that 100% everything will be working. I hope I made my self clear. I did this fix at a friend's car when he bought about 2 months ago.

The RPS is NOT the TRD, the TRD is exactly the same as the EXEDY clutch. Very good clutch but the new Exedy clutch has also sprung hubs, for the vibration. Very good clutch, but all the 2plates, 3plates have some rattling either, why not go with the beast HKS 3ple since it's also very economical comparing to the other ones. Dimitri

I guess whoever is into buying this ECU why not having this map that I've been using for about 3 months now, with no changes. It took me long time and a lot of help from the AEM forum members, so since it's not 100% I would like to share it with the community, it will ease the tuning a lot, and save a ton of money for everybody. It runs, it spools, it builts fast boost and it doesn't blow up. In my opinion the best of drivability and performance. My setup is at the moment Tubular Manifold CTC67 GTQ Innovative Progate HKS DLI HKS Triple clutch Stock Block Stock Cams 880cc injectors No cat Ported Manifold Iridiums IK24 APEXi FMIC 3.5 bar MAP FJO Wideband O2 sensor Later guys, have fun Dimitri gt67880inj.v1.03.zip

Grazer get a quote for Stock Disc RPS Plate Throw out bearing Pilot bearing and the damn C-clip, and wave washer that holds the TO bearing together, coz if it goes, it's bye bye 6 speed tranny. Just take a sand paper and rough up a little bit the flywheel and you are done. Now the dirt cheap way of doing this is, of course open the thing up yourself, buy just the disc and the clip, wave washer, bearings, and with a sand paper just rough up the surfaces of the flywheel and pressure plate. Old American tricks, they work for miles and miles. I had a lot of buddies when I was in Detroit that were just changing the disc and leaving the rest alone. Cost was really low that way, but of course it's like stock, no promises at 500rwhp. The 1st time I took the tranny out it took me 45min, now it takes me 20min and another 20 to mount it. So let's say in about an hour new clutch is in. Supras are easier to pop the tranny out than a Punto GT, or a Renault 5 GT. Cheers Dimitri

Stock flywheel cannot be lightenned, it's dual mass etc. etc. My recommendation still stands. Just resurface the stock flywheel, maybe 50-80 Euros, then a stock disc (these are cheap, in US it was like 70$), and either get a pressure plate from Paul Whiffin, or make yours a stronger one. Cheap easy and change the bearings the throw out one and the pilot. Cheers, Dimitri

Maybe lower front control arm bushings. Mine did that ordered new ones from Curt Toyota in Chicago for dirt cheap, replaced the control arms and brand new again and no sounds. Dimitri

I guess the RPS Max is the same with the ACT , just a heavier pressure plate. Which after some investigation,:flame Dev , I did exactly the same at a stock pressure plate with about 150 Euros, machined a stock one and changed the springs, and voila a pressure plate heavy like the RPS or ACT. The only problem was I couldn't find the........same colour blue or the same yellow, to make them an identical match. RPS and ACT use the same AISIN pressure plate they just modify it. Cheers Paul, those Porterfields, they can brake for sure, but they cracked my discs, and they squeal oh my god they squeal. But from 280-300klm I have brakes. Later Dimitri

If you want my opinion about clutches as I have gone through maybe 10 different setup, except the RPS carbon carbon,and the tilton, I can recommend the following Options 1. ACT pressure plate - stock disc harder pedal but stock drivability, no slipping like 5000 and slip etc., but it's just a beautiful clutch, 600rwhp 2. HKS Triple Tricky, very light pedal, unbelievable holding power, just slip that MOFO and it doesn't give a $hit, I have done about 30000miles of crazy driving with my single and about 800rwhp give or take (depending on the day), and it just doesn't wear out. We are talking about racing in Athens for 4 days a week, illegal of course and from light to light. This thing is just unreal. And the good thing is that nobody can drive your car because it needs some adjusting period, now after 2 years (actually in 1 week I got used to it) I drive it like a pro. Take my word for it lightened flywheel has bad driveability, 6 puck clutches are really bad and wear everything out, they eat the flywheels and pressure plates. If you want to byte the bullet and purchase the HKS just go there blindfolded, but don't waste money on other setups because they are just POS. After 10000$ worth of clutches no 1 is what everybody loves and no 2 is what every real street racer likes, changing gear and absolutelly no slippage like a WRC car. Cheers Dimitri

Jack the car up from behind (from the pumpkin) and with the handbrake loose, check the rear wheels, Check the freeplay of the wheels on the x and y axis, meaning hold it left and right and try to wobble it, and then up and down. If they have any freeplay and the nuts are tight on the wheel then the bearing of that wheel is gone. Telling you in advance that I have a MKIV with 800rwhp and stock wheels and 200000klm so far and no wheel bearing problems at all. But I changed the diff bearing when I swapped the TRD diff inside at about 160000klm and the bearings showed some wear and tear. L8ter, Dimitri

Tony, since your baby is a 6 speed, it's very unlikely to blow the tranny, unless of course the driving skills of you or the previous owner are questionable. If we eliminate this idea, then basically what's left is 1. Differential 2. Driveshaft, Unless you have twisted the front shaft from good traction, this thing usually is bullet proof. 3. Driveaxle, Highly unlikely, they are good for many many miles 4. Wheel Bearings, they can go bad if the wheel offset is wrong If it's No.1 then just swap it with the TRD and some new side bearings and you are set. Cheers. Dimitri

It's when the tire grip and then loose traction, the whole axle just hops on the road. Not good, suspension is gone usually when that happens.

Stock BOV maybe?? They usually leak

Wheel hop maybe. Just asking.

Tony, the easiest thing to do is: 1. jack the car up and drain the diff fluid. If particles are coming out, you need a diff, the torsen is in other words toast. (Oh by the way this is very unusual but hey it happens, and I have a diff here if you are interested from a EU spec Supra Auto.) 2. Grap the Driveshaft and check if it has play, try to twist on opposite direction, put one of your buddies to twist clockwise and you twist counterclockwise to see if there is a play. If there is then the driveshaft gone, pretty unlikely too. (I have an auto driveshaft as well, if you need one.) 3. Tranny, drain it and unbolt the pan and check for parts on the mesh screen, (if you find any this thing is gone, we got an auto here with 70k klm., good one) 4. Drive axle (I never broke one, but oh well I guess it might happen, do the twist again and check the joint that way, we got those too in stock, just in case). Let me know via email if you want. [email protected] Later Dimitri