Jack1998

I'm honestly not sure they came with the car as spares but I sourced originals. Sorry! I'm pretty sure it's the same reproduction ones extremeperformance sells.

All sold

Got a set of factory radio brackets for sale, I paid £250 for them and it took me ages to find. Collection from Middleport, Stoke, happy to post at additional cost.

Evening all, My supra is sold and I have a box of spares that Im offering out to the world. If you want to take the lot which I would much prefer I would take £300 for it all. All stuff pictured is included, to list; Short shift kit-£20 Underdash plastic-£30 Behind dash(drivers side) heater duct - £25 Passenger heater vent elbow-£15 2 pairs of rear shock tower covers -£60 a pair Both window switch covered in factory carbon -£20 each Rear boot panel cover plastics(ones above suspension mount plastics) -£20 Rear arch liners x2 left x2 right -£15 each Rear arch vent panels X2 - £15 Handbrake cover-£10 Reproduction seatbelts-£40 Sunvisors-£10 Mirror switch-£10 Grab handle-£5 Scuttle panel in great order but it's been painted white, wants soda blasting-£25 UK spec cream seat plastics-£20 Blacked side repeaters-£10 A single circular side repeater-£5 Boot stays-£5 The two pictured wiring bits I think are the power antenna wire and the factory amp wiring-£10 each The big bundle of wires is tien edfc suspension wiring-£5 Ashtray -£5 Not sure what the duct is in picture 8 -£10 6x new surefire coils, got these to replace my whifbitz ones while chasing a misfire, it wasn't coils so put my whifbitz ones back in and these went in the box after about 30 miles. -£50 I've managed to fit it all in a nice plastic box (apart from the scuttle). Located in Middle port, Stoke. Collection preferred, don't mind posting but certain bits I may have to pop across the road to the packaging store and get a box so there might be a few extra quid involved.

Sold!

Hi all, Cara recently been sold so I have a few spares to sell starting with this. Link G4x that came with the car, is currently on basemap so the car can be moved around. These have never seen any time in the road, just installed to the car and shunted around the garage. Also comes with the Link Wideband sensor, the CAN wire is already into the ECU so just needs extending to wherever needed. Has the 3 Bar map sensor with the associated plug. I have receipts for everything so in theory everything should still be under warranty. Any questions just ask, came out of my car working about 6 months ago as I just put a standard ECU back in and stayed BPU as I couldn't justify the cost on stock turbos. Asking £900 for the lot which I think is fair, well over half price. Cheers, Jack.

I've actually since sold the car but I still have a set of original brackets if you still need some

Fixed! Appreciate all the responses, the problem ended up being the upper o2 sensor causing the missfire. This was shoving loads of fuel in at idle, which was going straight past the pistons into the sump diluting the fuel causing the smoke on overrun as it was pulling the diluted oil past the rings. New sensor, replaced the oil and it's a very happy car again. The oil I took out stunk of fuel!

No joy with FCD, unplugged it altogether and wired the ECU back to standard but still no go!

Just eyeing the oil as well, smells very much like fuel on the disptick, I wonder If the FCD playing funny buggers has caused overfueling resulting in fuel contaminated oil. Would explain the smoke if the oil has been thinned. Just waiting on it to cool down for 20 minutes, fingers crossed setting 10 does the job, still boosts fine, to 1.2 bar.

Just had a quick play with the FCD, only turned it down to 8 as it fixed the problem on a friend's car the other day! I could actively hear the idle changing as I switched the dial, changed it to 10 and seems to be idling about 900, still wobbles a little on idle but nothing out of the ordinary for a modified decat I wouldn't think.

I have also noticed I'm getting up to temperature a lot faster and my fan kicks in more than usual (electric one), possibly coolant temp sensor confusing the engine

FCD is set about 7.5, seems to work well. ECU is another thought, I do have a spare link g4x with a basemap on which Im going to throw in and see what that nets me. The smoke is grey, so I'm assuming fuel, but with it happening only on low rev overrun it's a bit of a mystery. Only other idea I had was a slightly blocked oil pickup strainer in the sump.

J spec, just basic bpu mods, walbro pump, fmic and piping, induction kit, restrictor plate, FCD, boost controller

Yep totally fine in all conditions after this. It's like taking it above 3,000rpm clears whatever sulk it's having.

Sorry i should have put that to start with. Supra MK4, TT6, still got the factory twins

Left it to tick over after a good run for about 30 minutes the other day, not a whiff of smoke. Certainly an odd one! It has got that smell that burns your nose, smells very much like unburnt fuel. Coil clips all look in very good order, I haven't tested them for continuity so possibly the next step. I have noticed on my boost guage my negative vaccum sits at about 360mmHg, which seems a bit on the low side Possibly worth borrowing a smoke tester also.

Evening all, Hoping the forum can come to my aid again as everyone was really helpful last time. Having a strange issue with my car. It started after a very spirited drive, first time I've really opened the taps on full boost since owning the car. Since doing that, whenever I start the car it begins with misfire, idles like a bridgeported rotary engine, very lumpy. This doesn't matter if it's cold or hot or if I've just turned it off and popped in the shop. This is almost always followed by no power and it stumbles up the rev range, if I baby the throttle and get it over 3,000 rpm it will clear and it will run absolutely perfect for the remainder of my journey. So far I have no smoke. Once I've gone through the above it will then proceed to smoke at me but only during certain conditions. It will smoke if I have a long period of decelerating, plumes of grey smoke come out the back. Or long periods of driving at low rpm, say 6th at 40mph, once I pull up I will be overtaken by a cloud of grey. On boost I get nothing, if I drive everywhere holding my gears I get nothing. The smoke will sometimes have a blue tinge to it but the car doesn't use any oil! So far I've done a compression test which netted an almost perfect 180psi across all 6, a leak down test at 50psi which netted a perfect score across all 6. 6 new NGK BKR8EIX, 6 new OEM coilpacks, Unwrapped all the coilpack loom and checked for breakages Coolant is spot on, done a sniff test and no headgasket issues. I've had the car running and sprayed brake clean over everything to try and find a vaccum leak but the revs never rise. Pulled the crank sensor and cleaned Pulled TPS and cleaned Fuel filter replaced. When I pulled the plugs the other day to read them they are running hot, so would indicate to me lack of fuel. Im a mechanic by trade and feel bloody well defeated at this point. If anyone has any ideas or has had a similar problem before I start blindly replacing parts that would be greatly appreciated. My next thoughts are fuel pump, pulling injectors and flow testing, checking injector wire continuity. Turbos are in the back of my mind too but there is no smoke on start or on boost, or on overrun after boost. Thanks, Jack.

Been messing today, turned the FCD to 8 and it boosts fantastic! He tore out the boost controller thinking it was the solenoid! So we rigged up a screw type one just to test. With the screw all the way out we got to about 0.9 bar, pulled really well and clean no smoke or juddering at all. I don't know if we hit the maximum boost for the screw controller as we couldn't get anymore. There is a restrictor ring in though now it's decat that whifbitz say is a 1.0bar restrictor, runs at 0.8 bar with no controller on at all. Shall be putting the boost controller back in and seeing if we can turn it up to 1.2bar.

We have just put 6 new OEM coilpacks in, was yours the wiring going from the car loom to the connectors that had failed? If so how do I go about testing the wiring?

Well the fuel pump is of an unknown age so wouldn't do any harm putting a new one in. It is a bit gurgly and poppy on the overrun in normal driving too if that makes any odds. FCD is set at 12, possibly an amature mistake

We have thought about purchasing a cheapy afr to stick in and see what's happening, if we are leaning out is that correctable?

Certainly feels like one, we changed the oil after a few pulls and it cutting as I was worried it might have still gone down the bores and contaminated the oil which sure enough it had, the oil was like water! Plugs are the BPU recommended iridium's so I assumed the gaps were left alone, it very mildly misfires at 0.9 bar, anything over than it snaps your neck it jarrs that hard

Afternoon all, Just wondering if anyone has any thoughts on a problem we are having. After taking a friend out in my BPU supra, hes decided to do the same. We've set to upgrading plugs, full decat system, blitz boost controller, bigger front mount and associated piping, HKS FCD, the car already had a walbro intank pump. The moment we turn the boost over the stock 0.7-8 bar it quite violently bucks/spits. It feels like someone's jabbing at the brakes, really aggressive jarring, we haven't dared power through it just let off immediately. I initially thought coils, replaced all 6 to no avail then went with the 8 grade plug rather than 7's thinking they might not be cold enough but same story. The only other thing I can think is he's got the turbos running in parallel through re routing vaccum hoses rather than pinning them open. We haven't switched them back due to a dead Vsv and it's been running fine like this for years at stock power. Appreciate any thoughts, Thanks, Jack.

Evening all. Searched for a radio bracket for months and had to pay quite a princely sum for it! So I had a replica made up by a local fabrication company. The replica bracket is an identical copy except its made from a thicker stainless. All screw holes and folds are in the same place. The AC amplifier fits in the top and screws in at the sides as the factory bracket does, with it being slightly thicker metal it does take a little wiggle to get it in as it's a nice snug fit. Mounts up spot on to the factory mounting points in the car. I've only had the one made up so far to guage interest, however the CAD design is saved and I can have as many stamped out as I so please within a few days. Im intending on selling these for £120 with postage included anywhere in the UK. More than happy to post overseas if there is interest I will need to get a postage quote together though. If your interested please drop a line below, i need minimum of 10 to get the engineering company to make some up, il check back end of next week and see where we are at. Included are pictures below compared to a OEM bracket. Cheers, Jack.