tonyhawk

you're a star, cheers for the advice; I know a good bodyshop who won't muck me around, he might know a CF specialist

That's encouraging! It's just the top layer at the mo, not the CF; where could I get that sort of fix done?

Do you mean this one? If it's not, then let me know, I have the whole assembly off and in my garage so I can take a piccy of any bit

Do you mean the flange with the three studs, at the top of the first cat pipe?

Due to a faulty bonnet catch, a crack has appeared in my CF bonnet. It's getting bigger with time and I'd really like to stop it if I can! However, I'm not sure if it can be fixed? The crack isn't in the CF itself, but the clear coating that covers it. Any ideas? Ta.

Cheers for the feedback, it's very much appreciated. I'm not entirely sure what the symptoms were, but it was Ryan.G who was mapping it and I trust his opinion. I have since spoken to a Garrett dealer and he said that there are two types of Garrett, those that have a rubber o-ring and those that don't. The ones that do not need it are a flush fit, with flat surfaces and those that do have a recess to take it; mine apparently is the latter (GT35). However, given the fact that everything to do with Garrett seems to only come from America and always takes about 3 years to arrive I might go with your suggestion Bigum and seal it manually as it were. Thanks for all your help Tony

Mine came from Envy, but didn't fit

My decat didn't fit properly either, I had a bit of a mare getting it flush

On the dyno the other day it was noted that I had boost leak; when investigating it yesterday I had the all the pipes off and decided to check the compressor housing. After taking it off I noticed that there was no seal between the housing and the back plate like there is on the stock tubbies. Now, this is my first single, so it might be normal, but I can't see how it would seal properly without one? Can anyone advise? Ta. Tony

Oooh dejavu!

I ran TTC for ages before going single and loved it! I think it's a personal taste; some people like the sequential delivery, some the more linear TTC; for me it was the latter. One by-product of permanently going TTC is that you can remove the actuators, the vacuum tank and all of the associated vacuum hosing; it really cleans up the engine bay

70psi is fine if cool or as DJButler says when revving (when warm); hot I would expect to see about 35psi at idle.

No, sorry, it's the stock turbo heat shield.

Sorry, yes, PM'd

As requested, here are some piccys of the mid-pipe:

The turbo pipes have been dibbed I'm afraid, but the O2 sensor is still available; I've PM'd you Scott.

It's the 5 pieces of stock turbo pipework that go between the two tubbies for pressurised air and intake, but not the Intercooler hard pipe kit if that makes any sense? I have piccies of them (attached) when there were first polished up, they need a bit of a clean now, but I'll do that before I ship them.

Er...not sure It's the second decat pipe certainly, and it came off of my TT when I went single, where it was attached to a first decat, but before that it married up to the first cat. I'm not sure if the NA and TT exhaust is the same, but if it is then yes, it will fit

Having gone single (plus a bit of a general clearout), I have a few bits for sale: Stock J-spec cams – £25 J-spec ECU - £50 J-spec 440 injectors - £60 2 x Walbro pumps - £40 each Sold UK Spec 550 injectors - £60 Sold Resistor pack - £15 Sold Polished stock turbo pipework - £50 Sold Used O2 sensor (has about £4000 miles on it) - £25 Sold Mid decat pipe for stock tubbies with boss for wideband sensor - £25 Sold Veilside rear spoiler (silver, some scratches) - £30 Sold J-Spec bonnet, silver, not in brilliant condition; some scratches and a couple of small dents (stones I suspect) thus £25 (collection only) Sold pending confirmation The bonnet is currently at the body shop and they have told me that they can spray it whatever colour you'd like (and sort out the imperfections) for £150 if that's of any use to anyone? Any comments or questions please reply or PM me.

I would be surprised if the alarm were to affect the engine running only when cold; if it were faulty and kicking in the immobilsation circuit at random times, I would have thought it would be when warm as well. Could the installers have removed/knocked something during the alarm fit? Do you have a water temperature reading? The cold start map relies on the water temp sensor, so it might be causing a problem? Have you checked all connections? Coil packs, cam sensors etc? What about the plugs, are they in good condition? I'm not an expert, but I would have thought that a warm engine would be more forgiving when it comes to ignition than a cold one, so if the plugs are a little dodgy, it might show up more when cold? Also, what about the idle sensor? Are the pipes on ok? What is the tickover when cold? Does it cough or stutter when cold or simply cut out without warning? Also, does this happen at revs or just at tickover? Just a few thoughts.

I have one with a few thousand miles on if that's any use?

Does anyone have one for sale? Ta.

You're a star, cheers for that. I was thinking of using that approach, I assumed it wasn't attached to anything, but the problem with engines in general is, there's often a little circlip, or some other unforeseen annoyance stopping it from moving and those are the bits that cause the damage when you try to move them! Thanks for that, I wanted some reassurance before I started tapping! Ta.

I have searched, but Turbo, turbine and housing are very popular words! Does anyone have any tips on how to remove the turbine housing? I need to change mine, but the old one is stuck solid Obviously I don't want to muck it up as I might damage the impellors..... Any ideas? Thanks Tony

Assuming I can't find one second hand, does anyone know of a UK supplier who might have one in stock? I need this by Tuesday Thanks