Steve Sherwood

Adam put the parts on ebay so don't know the description he gave but it is a 3 5/8 v band to take a 3" down pipe but also has a fitting to take a 4" down pipe. we uses a 4" down pipe the fittting comes with the turbo so you can use 3" or 4" down pipe. Hope that is of some help.

Did not have one the AEM controlled the boost.

You would need a 3.5 bar map sensor, a wideband AFR sensor and controller or guage and an air inlet temp sensor if you don't have one.

No problem will ship anywhere in europe.

Thanks Jamie

Aem ecu item number 220346515408 defi link water temp guage 220346522981 defi link oil pressure guage 220346526794 racelogic digital traction control 220346532567 autronic 500r cdi 220346536135 hks plus vcam pro vvti control system 220346549474 pecision turbos 900 hp hybrid turbo heavy duty core t4 flange 220346556622 blitz sbc i-d 3 sequential boost controller dual solenoid, uk instructions 220346612991. Most parts from my car, boost controller and vvti controller new still in boxes.

We have fitted the full kit at the rear and top arm at front, the front lower arm looks quite strong, so decided to lave it untill it needs replacing. We chose Ikeya becuse it is very adjustable and strong, although the arms are heavier than I thought they would be. Strength and adjustability are a priority as we will use full drag slciks for 1/4 mile 30 inch diameter much bigger than road wheels, and 19x12.5 rears for road and top speed runs. The rear geometery will need a lot of adjustment for different applications. Two concerns are that the cone spacers are not much bigger than the slots in the sub frame so don't have much grip on sub frame. Thats why we cut subframe out and welded plate in with 14 mm hole. The other is the serrations and four bolts that hold top ball joints. They have a lot of adjustment not sure how strong thay will be, time will tell. Can't say how good it will be until we have used it. We got it from Paul at Whifbitz, I know Envey list it as well its expensive there may be cheaper options that will do the job.

Pics of column and powder caoted sub frame.

Made some progress but it is slow at the moment, a few pics of modifications to rear sub frame and suspension. Also steering column. We have cut out the sub frame to remove original slotted mounting holes, made some large washers from steel plate and welded them in to give a 14mm hole to take mounting bolt. The Ikeya suspension has small cones each side of rose joint they did not cover the original slots as well ae we would have liked.

I think I still have a UK front decat pipe will have a look and let you know.

Not had time to do much work on it, Adam has constructed and fitted a race steering column and removable wheel but that is about all. been rewiring the work shop and fitting a new air main, we now have all the parts to re build the motor, transmission and suspension so will post pics when more work is done.

The car was on the road and has all the documents so will only need an MOT we have beefed up the rear sub frame but not made any major changes. Not sure on the regs if you consruct your own subframes. Adam makes carbon dashes for Z cars will use a modifed version of these with a Stack guage basically a rev counter with road legal digital speedo and sequential shift lights, probably reuse our deffi guages mounted into the dash.

Yes it came from Hong kong I think it was on ebay not sure if they are still on there.

Yes it is sold thanks for the intrest but can only sell it once.

Yes if fits perfect just remove original wing and it boilts through original holes no modifications required.

Full carbon rear wing direct replacement for original wing uses original holes. £150 Had sold this but buyer did not come up with money.

We used Carbone Lorraine with RC6 compound they gave very good results, did have some disc cracking but may have been due to top speed days. Brakes going from cold to hot very quickly.

It was a hard desision to strip the car out and chage colour I also liked the car as it was. Don't know how the tyre widths will work for track but we will mainly use the car for drag racing and top speed runs as Elvington is just down the road. We are giving the 264 VVTI inlet cam a go see how it performs, if its not that good can go back to using 272 fixed cam. But HKS say the 264 VVTI gives close to 272 fixed cam performance at the top end.

In a box in my work shop but it looks very well made.

Everythig that why its so hard to do road drag or track easy one car to do all not so easy.

MOTOR Virtual works intake with 100mm throtle body Virtual works exhaust manifold (custom) Ferrea 1100 rpm valve train kit HKS 264 VVTi inlet cam HKS 272 exhaust cam TMS main bearing caps ARP headstuds Hks 2mm head gasket billet timing belt tensioner bracket TMS ultimate race pistons +20 ARP main studs Carillo H-beam conrods PHR soild motor mounts Turbonetics GTK1000 turbo Gel harmonic crank balancer RPS billet carbon/carbon twin disc clutch Head gas flowed by us PER F-1 rod bearings Clevite crank bearings Transmission 6 speed manual Driveshaft shop uprated propshaft and drive shafts Kaaz 2 way diff Soild diff and subframe mounts Suspension Ikeya formula wishbones, arms and all tiebars Tein flex coilovers TMS adjudtable antiroll bars Brakes KAD 6pot conversion front and rear Electronics AEM EMS M+W cdis Rcelogic digital traction control Wheels/tyres Road/track Forge competition wheels 19x10 front 19x12.5 rear with 285/35 front and 345/35 tyres rear Drag rear Weld wheels 15" drag rims Toyo 30x10.5w-15 drag sliks Lots more but that will do for now

Ok I will type up the specs it may take some time.

We have been working on converting our car from road/race car to race/road car for some time. We now have most of the parts to finsh the job, here are a few pics of job so far.

Hope it all goes well I know how hard it can be rebuilding a Supra

I have a pair from my 1998 TT they are ok replaced with uprated wishbones. £100 the pair let me know if you want them.