Steve Sherwood

Much more power through range on VP import.

Can't post TDI run it scan is to big will post soon.

Ryan finished the race fuel map today and at first we thought the results where below expectations. It made 818.9hp@ the hubs and 673.1 lb-ft torque, only around 30 hp more than @AET. I think the power is limited by the cams, the 264 HKS 264 VVTi cam does not have that much lift or duration. When you compare the two graphs there is a massive difference in spool up and power @ lower rpm, so in the real world the car will be much faster than before. Torque is up by 115.8 lb-ft and peaks at lower rpm. At AET it made 350hp @ 5000rpm today it made 650hp @ 5000, it makes around 800hp from 6500-8000rpm. The spread of power is very good it should pull well from much lower revs. AET DYNO RUN POOR SPOOL

Thanks Paul may well look at those cams to fit over winter want to use the car through this summer to get it set up on road and track. Will need a rear wing at some point this summer, grip is much better but needs a wing to give down force.

We use HKS 264 VVTi inlet and 272 exhaust, I have had the cams for some time. HKS were the only ones on the market but I think Whifbitz can now supply some good uprated ones. We originally used a pair of 272 non VVTi cams modified to fit the VVTi head as no one had managed to build a program to run the Toyota VVTi at that time. We didn't know if the VVTi would make much difference @ high boost but I think it will.

Ryan has just finished the road map and traction control via ecu. We used BP ultimate fuel as Shell Vpower is not on sale in our area so power not as high, ultimate dosn't give as much power. The car now picks up very well and off boost and is quite smooth considering 1600 cc injectors. Turbo spools very well VVTi will make a big difference I think. Traction control and launch control both work well, it makes boost @ standsill with revlimit @ 4000. Should have race map done soon will be nice to see what it can do and how turobo spools with no restriction from wastegate

Nice one its satisfying when you get good results for all the effort.

Got these for the front of my car but too wide. Two 285/35/zr19 6mm tread remaining on repairs £100

Pics of 6 speed rad

I did buy a copy from an ebay trader the quality was so poor I complained to the credit card company and they stopped payment. The sellers eventually ceased trading.

Yes its a genuine top secret kit. We took moulds from the rear quaters and made new ones in thicker fibre glass, the originals are very thin and as they are bonded to the shell we did not want any cracking. we modifed the rear arch openings to take full size drag slicks and made the opening in the bumper larger to increase air flow through the rad.

Thanks Chris its nice when people appreciate your work especially so when they're proffesionals. I could have bought a good second hand Bently continential GT or DB 9 for the money i've spent on it inthe time i've owned the car. I often question my sanity in putting that much money into a 1998 Toyota. I just wanted to build something to a high standard in my garden shed, time will tell if it was worth it. The article you posted on drag racing setup was very interesting, one of the problems with taking weight out of a Supra is most of it comes out of the back. The info they gave on using ths cars inertia off the line to trasfer the weight from front to back was useful.

I'll have a look at the HKS series may have a go at it. Bruntingthorpe sounds good need to test the car at high speed. Did not intend to use the car until spring don't know when all these things start.

Not sure about the HKS series have to think about that. I want to do the straightliners top speed days, one aim is to top 200 mph. Trying to pesuade Adam to make a top speed day bumper with small opening. Would like to do a decent 1/4 mile time as well. If TOTB is on this year would like to have a go. In the past we have had a spot on road map but never a race map that worked we always had to change back to the road map on race day. The main aim is to have reliable race maps, with Ryan mapping the car and a Solaris ECU I am confident that we will get there.

Pod, short shift and TT ignitor are sold will sort pics of rad asap.

Thanks for positive comments its been a long build.

£30 inc delivery let me know.

sahifter is for TT pod is for 60mm gauge.

Got the car on the road at end of summer so is now road legal.had a list of changes to make after running it at supra pod. The car had been on the dyno but never run down the road or track supra pod was first run out. It showed up a few problems as you would expect after a full re build. Rear geometry needed work car wanted to go sideways when it broke traction. Its a lot better now rear camber is nil with 30min toe in this is for stright line grip mainly without totally ruining the handling. It will still need work I think the rear springs are a bit too stiff as we have taken so much weight off the back, tyre pressures still need sorting ended up at 10 psi in drag tyres and grip was getting better started at 12 psi. Had to stop running at pod as throttle cable melted and jammed throttle, we used the boot release cable to make up a throttle cable but nylon liner was not heat resistant and melted jamming throttle. Have now replaced it with heat resistant cable. Wheel speed sensors did not work, we had to remove original rear ABS sensors as they would not fit uprated drive shafts we also had to remove sensor mounting from hub. We had new rings made to fit new drive shafts and alloy mounting brackets for sensors. Ryan helped us out with advice on sensor gap and wiriing. We adjusted gap to 2mm and rewired with twisted pairs of wires. Solaris now reads the sensors so we should be ok with traction control and any other systems that require individual wheel speed sensors. The fuel pumps are progressive and need a 0-5volt feed we had them controlled by the solaris 0-5v output via a map sensor when boost came in output went up. This worked ok but pumps blew fuses on start up. the pumps have their own 5v output and input wiring this set up includs prgressive start up so we re wired the pumps using this setup via a high/low output switch fuses are now ok. Common rail nitrous looks good but having tested it I would not use this system on my engine. The first outlet gets most of the nitrous and it gets less as it progresses down the rail the last outlet gets almost none. Also the stainless pipe with alloy nuts tend to leak, the nuts onto the jets only have a few threads to hold them they strip before they seal. we changed to distribution blocks and braided hose its a temporary setup at the moment untill we can test it. The solarois could not run the solenoids as they draw way too much power, we will change the solenoids for hipower systems ones and use a highpower systems external controller. The motor made 800ps @ the hubs on zero oxygen race fuel but would not make any more as boost went up past 2 bar. this was less than we hoped for. Having spoken to Ryan and Andy the dyno guy we came to the conclusion that the overlap on the cams was too long and the VVTi could not reduce it enough to prevent blow through. We had the exhaust cam set with 5 degrees of retard that gave more overlap we adjusted the exhaust cam to reduce the overlap untill we had 5 degrees of advance this gave much better power the turbo came in sooner and the motor made 790ps @ 1.8 bar 8500 rpm. I am confident that it will make 900ps on the turbo with oxygenated race fuel and over a 1000 with zero oxygen fuel and nitrous. Hope to get a lot more use out of it next summer.

Pillar pod 25.00 sold tt ignitor 50.00 sold starter 50.00 electric arial 25.00 sold hks vernier pulley 50.00 sold b&m short shift 45.00 sold also STD rad for 6 speed with fan 120.00 ignitor vvti tt 50.00

I will go if I can get the car sorted by Sunday.

Well doe Jamie great performance.

Can't wait car has been on dyno but have not had chance to use it, will be the first time I have driven it for 18 months. Its not set up so will be a test and adjust day but should still be good fun. Don't want to do the 4 hr drive pulling a trailer hope its dry all day.

Looking good nice work dude.

Nitrous bottles from the US don't have UK specification so gas suppliers much as airproducts wont fill thea as it is illegal. There are small suppliers that will fill them, if you go for a US system get it without bottle and buy a Uk spec bottle. The reason I have not used my nitrous sytem is that some people in the UK that supply nitrous kits (Wizards of nos) are adament that common rail nitrous will not deliver equal amounts of introus to each injector. They say it will turn from liquid to gas as it passes down the rail and some injectors will get more nitrous then others. Common rail direct port looks good but does it work? I am trying to get some answers before I use mine. The American systems look fantastic the UK sytems look a bit heath robinson but work well. I would not spend a lot of money without some test results.