carl0s

If I recall correctly, you'll still pass an MOT with the second CAT removed, but for BPU and the extra boost, you want to remove the first CAT, which would make it not street legal and you'd need to find a friendly MOT-friend, or swap out that CAT/de-cat pipe at MOT time.

Probably because you all ask silly money and look to make a profit on everything instead of accepting a bit of depreciation!!

I'd buy an XFR instead

Not sure. I know the dark silvers (gunmetal) show like that sometimes, but they tend to do that from day one don't they. Whites usually look white all over. Anyway, not wanting to rubbish it or anything, just commenting on the usual over-enthusiasm here in the for sale section. It's like you all get shares on other peoples sales or something

Looks rough to me! I know you guys have rose tinted glasses and what not, but can't you see a really knackered (170,000 mile more like) driver's seat, and misaligned rear hatch and potentially badly repainted rear bumper?

holy shit, a 42 grand used auto. Never thought i'd see the day.

I just did this job on my v8 BMW - but I took the heads off and used the big C-Clamp compressors and it was easy peasy! I had to take the heads off for other reasons really (chain guides, and to drill out air-flow passages). As it happens I have the original tool that was recommended on here, somewhere.. Never did use it. Somebody else did my Supra for me years ago.

It's a proprietary Toyota thing. Useful from time to time but not very exciting. You can run tests by pulsing certain pins together and stuff, and reset airbag light and what not. I did have CJ's nice box of service manuals but I think they got left at the ex GFs house. doh!

I think so. I can't quite remember what I read/came across. Now that I think about it, it might have been the LS2 DBW stuff - it was either that or the BMW, and basically TPS always started at about 10% for some perfectly valid reason, and it wasn't what you first thought it was - i.e. it was the throttle butterfly position, not the throttle pedal position, or something. Pedal was down as "APP" (accelerator pedal pos) or something.

If it's anything like the BMW OBD2 readouts, then the TPS% actually refers to the throttle butterfly and not the throttle pedal, and I think the minimum was something like 10% I'm sure you're right about the lambda reading. It's probably just some a vague interpretation of the lambda voltage maybe? Looks great anyway. VVTi FTW!

As tDR says: BPU itself generally comprises of: walbro pump (if existing is jdm), decat, suitable restrictor, colder plugs, thor FCD. Basically just raise boost and sort the fuel pump. ECU modifications aren't normally done and it's not normal for the engines to break. I'm sure somewhere in this 10 page thread entitled "BPU (Basic Performance Upgrade)" it will explain what the general BPU practice is.

just BPU it™

but the point at which the FCD caps the voltage, is the point at which the taps are open 100%, right? So, a typical BPU car which uses an FCD, would generally be running 100% duty cycle at high rpm WOT?

I vaguely remember it being observed (Ian C?) that above a set boost pressure point, which may be 15 or 17psi, the Ecu runs the injectors at 100% DC just to be on the safe side.

It will do 30mpg on the motorway I think.

LOL There's other spares, I just can't remember them all now. There's a brand new power steering pump, which wasn't required. There's most of the parts to get Air Conditioning set up (the correct compressor & bracket), and the condenser is fitted. I don't think you need a/c though, and I went through a summer without it just fine. The propshaft was an especially expensive 3" one with Spicer sealed-for-life joints.

I will get some taken this weekend I think. I'm still not sure what to do. It's not getting any use, but on the other hand, I'm not entirely sure whether it's worth paying an extra £12k off my mortgage, or whether I should keep the car since it's the cheapest £12k I could get (3.something percent mortgage) and won't knock much off my monthly payments. It would get me a bit closer to actually owning a home though.. closer to owning the next home. I was thinking about making a project of LPG converting it before selling (I've learned a lot about how to do LPG stuff - http://www.lpgforum.co.uk/viewtopic.php?f=28&t=10450 ). But I'm not sure if the idea of LPG would put people off. To me, it would tick the final box (fuel costs). I already fixed the main RX7 problem - unreliable wankel engine.

Thinking about selling my LS2 engined RX7 (FD). It's not getting any use. I'm driving my LPG auto e46 330i all the time.. Paint/bodywork could be better. No rust at all, just dings and what not. It would need a respray to get to show quality, but for normal use it still looks great. It's black. Looks like this: http://a5.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc7/476988_10151743631370237_844495236_24078848_1295375347_o.jpg spec is: 6 litre GM LS2 T56 6spd gearbox with new synchro blockers fitted by me not many miles ago LS7 clutch fitted newly by me not many miles ago automatic LSD (better ratio for the v8 than the manual LSD). spare automatic LSD included as well. LSD is solid-ish mounted to the body with Samberg's differential mount crossmember, rather than a torque arm. This means it won't break, and you don't get wheel hop, or not very often anyway (it does have soft springs fitted). It does add to NVH a little though. Volk Racing TE37 rims (genuine ones), refinished in shadow chrome last year. High quality bluetooth/mp3/USB head unit & 4ch amp & Focal K2 Power speakers. The speakers are a bit big - the windows don't quite go all the way down because of them. I could change this, but I like music. It's very reliable. Was used as a daily driver for nearly a year, until I just couldn't take the fuel costs and general tension any more (hence the current daily.. since November). It has a Samberg v2 fan & cold air-intake, with dual Spal fans. The fans run in a proper ECU-controlled high/low-speed setup, so in normal use, you never hear the fans. When necessary, the fans go full speed, and move some serious air! An OBD2 "turbogauge/scanguage" is fitted below the radio which monitors whatever you want - Engine Coolant Temp, RPM, MAP, etc., since the temperature gauge on the dash doesn't go much above the middle. Anyway, you can see that the fans work well and consistently. Tokico adjustable shocks up front, bought used as a set of four and fitted around October. The rears made wooshy noises, so I bought new adjustable Konis for the rear. Koni adjustable shocks on rear, newly fitted not many miles ago, made life lovely :-) The front springs are Tein H-Tech. The rears are Tanabe-NF210 (comfort) ones. The car comes with four sets of springs, which are: Tein H-Tech Tanabe NF210 H&R (I never fitted these.. the drop sounded too much for my daily driving) Eibach/MazdaSpeed (these came on the car.. a little too low at the front). EFILive FlashScan V2 Scan & Tune. Unlocks the power of the ECU. There is also an almost complete set of spare wishbones and control arms, and two spare front wings (common fault on lowered cars is that the wheels catch the edge of the wing when turning & leaning/loading, so I bought spares to cut/bend slightly, but I've been busy, and bought my first house and stuff). The current control arms had new genuine-Mazda pillow-ball (spherical bearing) joints fitted by me not many miles ago. I bought the AtomicRex ones, and then a little later I bought the proper ones after the AtomicRex ones started to slop a bit. I have been through about 4 sets of springs, and various shocks, to get to the current setup. It's very compliant. It feels better than a brand new 370Z in terms of comfort (with the shocks on soft). It's basically like a TVR but faster and cooler and more reliable. I've put a lot of effort into quashing squeaks and stuff. Some of it has just been a case of gaffer tape here and there, but I also replaced hatch hinges and stuff (£30 each.. ) and underlay below the carpet. There are some other spares - a new windscreen rubber trim which I was going to have fitted after I had it resprayed, and other bits that I can't quite remember. It has a Racing Beat single-tip exhaust - classy looking, not chav. It's loud but not too loud at all. It's probably one of the quietest V8 RX7s. It still pops and crackles on lift-off though The mid pipes are mild steel push fit pieces from Jetex, with a couple of bullet silencers (one per bank). The headers are Edelbrocks. The cat-back is all RX7-standard Racing Beat. I bought a TIG welder and lots of stainless bends and my project was going to be redoing the mid pipes out of stainless with V-Bands, but I've been busy, and I bought a house. I may be interested in some kind of PX. A fast straight-six automatic that does 25 - 35mpg, can be converted to LPG (no direct injection engines) and has a good sound system. I'd like an E92 330i coupe with the N52 engine. I think a Supra is too thirsty, as much as I am tempted though. I might consider a VVTi auto in Gunmetal or RSP though with a few grand on top. Otherwise, I'm looking at around £12k. I expect to sell for a little less than that. Power of the engine in stock CAT-ed form (Pontiac GTO LS2 / Monaro) is 400hp. I have not done any remapping (although the tools/software is there), however it has quite a free flowing exhaust system now. It must surely be 410hp. A simple CAM swap will get this up to 500hp. The weight is estimated to be 1300kgs maximum. That makes it 315hp/tonne currently, and 385hp/tonne easily/cheaply achieveble. It's fast and it pulls like you wouldn't believe all the way from 1,500rpm to 6,500rpm.

website & pics no worky for me either. I'm with o2/be unlimited broadband.

Yeah I know that. GLWS.

serious? for a 1993 auto tt with a BHG ??

No point saying it's cheap when there's no price in sight! Or am I missing something/expected to trawl ph?

LOL sorry It just sounded like you thought it was all normal/made sense, but you didn't seem to have considered the wings being a different colour. Regarding the brakes, I suppose he might own another Supra and have decided to pinch the good bits, or maybe PB did, before selling it for an even more reduced price :o

There's only one facelift grey - gunmetal, and then there's quicksilver which looks similar to gunmetal from some angles. They're both hard to get right though...

Good spot on the headlight, but now that I think about it; what makes you say it's the same unit? They all start to peel/wear in the same place, and the current light looks like it could be worse than the PB pic.