SKI

Moosing.... Will check my intake system tonight hadn't even thought of that. It's peculiar because it's only just started to happen, and stops once things get warm. The death wine happens when your turbs are about to die, it's more common on T2 and usually starts with a strange Oooooo sound around 3800RPM UK think it's diffrent for the Jap spec. There usd to be a video in the archive of some American guy wasting his turbos and recording the death wine, may still be there.

It does sound like resonance, I’ve not noticed any drop in power, infact with the cool mornings, I’ve noticed much better throttle response, could it be wheel balancing, although you wouldn’t expect that to be better when the car was warm!? If that was the case it would be more MPH dependant than RPM. I’ll have a check, see if my deaf hearing can detect twice the octave at twice the speed, cheers for the response.

When I fist drive the car from a cold start, fo a brief period I seem to get a strange noise at around 2600RPM (although that could be coincidental). It sounds a bit like the whine of death (sort of Ooooooooo), only it seems to stop after a couple of mile and when the engine is hot. I've recently fitted front discs, pads and shims so is it possible that something catches until it gets hot and then it releases. I've not noticed any drop in power or plumes of smoke, any advice appreciated. Cheers

I have to say I'm with Darren on this one, I hate the unpredictable side to the Auto box. Especially T2 not kicking in…. That’s unforgivable!

Phil, I could understand that if you were running 15% slip, but surely the stock system wouldn't even be near to activating if you were running 5% (wouldn't RLTC catch it way before at this level), then you could leave your stock system on as an emergency backup! I rarely run mine above the basic dry setting which I find excellent, so under those conditions should I just leave the stock on?

Cheers M8

Anyone know why you're supposed to turn off the stock traction contol when you have RLTC fitted!? I have a UK TT with RLTC. I thought that stock kicked in at around 14% slip. If you have RLTC at 5% surely the stock system should never engage. I can understand why it might get upset with snow mode on the japs spec but other than that......

At first I thought it may be a problem related to T2 coming online late but know I'm not so sure, perhaps the two are linked.

Has anyone experienced auto kickdown concerns when overtaking or launching….? Occasionally, when I floor the accelerator, the box doesn’t shift down (even when I depress the kickdown button fully under the accelerator), so I usually end up having to abort an overtaking manoeuvre. If I floor the loud pedal but don’t hit the kick down button acceleration is more consistent and reliable. Anyone else experienced this. When the kickdown does work, the revs jump to about 4.5KRPM with full boost from T2 at around 5.5KRPM is this normal, thought T2 hit full boost at around 4.5KRPM. Is there anyway to ensure that the box always kicksdown. Cheers

I saw a comet once but it was smaller and did less damage than Monkeys' metaphor

OK... Removed fuses today... None blown so was a bit worried, put them back in after cleaning contacts, and hey presto, working again, maybe I just have a faulty contact somewhere, pleased to find I hadn't blown anything, peculiar though. Once the weather gets a bit better I will do a continuity check on the fusebox to make sure everythings ok. SKI

Will be able to check properly tomorrow when there's more light, hope I've not done anything serious!

I've just installed a set of facelift rear lights on my UK car, I have to say big improvement over the stock lights. Ran the foglight wiring through the original loom and connected it to the second brake light using the diode instructions I found. All seemed well.... Two brake lights cool... And fog light conversion, excellent... Then disaster, my FRONT fog lights both sides have failed, any advice (they did work initially - shortly after the mod was completed I tested all my lights). Hope it’s nothing too serious, cant be the fuse though or the rear fog lights wouldn’t work when I pressed the fog button, don’t understand it, if I wired the diodes up wrong surely I wouldn’t have lit any of the lights up, confused and concerned, any help appreciated.

Would that also cause the audible clunking noise when the brakes are applied?

If I take the wheel of myself is it possible to determine if the discs are wonkey without removing the callipers. At least it would be a start!?

I've just had my discs replaced all round by a friend who does my servicing. I've noticed that when the window is down I can hear quite loudly, the callipers or pads contacting the discs at the front (makes a loud clunking), further to this a strange rhythmical grinding noise under deceleration can be heard (sometimes when I’m not even braking). The brakes seem to get very hot, infact the body above the wheels was hot when I returned from a drive yesterday, at first I thought this was just engine heat but I’ve never noticed it before. Any suggestions, or advice to check for. I would’ve taken it back for him to check but he went on holiday the day after changing my brakes for me, Ahhhh. Cheers SKI

Is there a difference in the spoil up RPM between JSpec and UK, I'm running a UK spec. I've had a few problems with the spoil up time on mine, the second turbo seems to come on at around 4KRPM with full boost at about 4.5KRPM, wondered if this sounded about right for a UK car.

Put my stock BOV back on tonight after C.W and my girlfriend ganged up on me to get rid of it Shame cos I loved the sound it made ahh well....

That's it, will order it from Toyota tomorrow!!!!! Cheers. Shane

Another view

Anyone know the Toyota part code for the hose in the photograph below, it's from the EGR on UK TT. Basically the rubber had split and T2 wasn't engaging properly, Chris Wilson found the fault faster than the time it takes to lift the bonnet and, being the nice guy that he is, I was running again free of charge (cheers for that). I will need to put the genuine Toyota rubber back on ASAP though, so would really appreciate it if anyone has this code. Thanks Shane

Dude they're the dogs... may have to swap my horns My compressor is wired in so it shouldn't be too much trouble. Cheers

I'm gonna try Scotts suggestion and cut tthe power!

Jake, I thought the same as you, I fitted a good solid sounding air horn, but you can still hear that squawky horrible shrill of the last horn (if you can call it that). Rest assured one way or another it will not be there tomorrow

Cheers dude. Will give that a try tomorrow.