Rostr02

Hello, anyone have a RHD ECU/ECM bracket for sale and willing to ship? Thanks

Sorry for the late reply back I had a few crazy days at work and no chance to work on the car. I ordered brand new resistors and min fuse for the box. Sanded all the ground areas and placed some dielectric grease down. Reconnected the battery and viola she now has power. Starter turns over but can’t get her to fire up yet sputter a bit but won’t start. This is a step in the right direction at least and am happy that whatever the hell I did something worked. Thanks everyone for the help. Now to get it started.

Swampy, the alternator runs into the fuse box via the factory wires. I traced them all and all alternator wires are intact and connected to the alternator. Even took all the wire loom off just to make sure.

I redid all my grounds today and added a few for good measure just in case. Still no go. i have power to the fuse box but if I check power at the main nut there is only 2.5 volts, if I disconnect and check the line without it being attached to the fuse box it is the same reading I am getting at the battery. i ordered new alternator fuse just in case despite it not being blown and having good continuity. And 4 new relays for the fuse box just in case. Should be in in a couple days and see if one of them fixes it

Mike thanks for the response, yes the fuse was pulled to check continuity. All of the fuses were pulled actually to check.

I have zero power at all past the fuse box. I did until I ran the power feed to the starter, now there is nothing. I am hoping it is something I can sort out, I am just hoping it is not the ecu.

Yes for sure. They are bolt in terminals and have power all the way to the fuse box. But then as soon as I bolt everything down the bolt meter drops. I have no clue at this point. Obviously the power is connected at this time, this was right after I did the install

Well I have been graced with an electrical gremlin and have not the foggiest idea on how to progress past this part. JDM 2JZGTE with T88 greddy single turbo. So I have done a remote battery install into the boot with an inline breaker, power feed directly to the fuse box. Battery is double grounded in the boot area. 12V fuel pump mod and had great pressure. All lights working with the exception of the turn signals that I was less than worried about. Everything was fine until I ran the power feed from the fuse box bolt to the starter. I then tried to start the car heard a click then everything is dead. I disconnected the starter and went back to the way everything was pre power failure. I have no fuses that are blown under the bonnet or the driver side fuse box. I have checked continuity to all of the fuses and all are good as well just to be actually certain they were not the cause. I have not gone through all of the relays to be certain they are not the cause though, I have the same continuity for all of the relays under the bonnet but have not gone through all the relays in the foot well. If anyone has any pointers as to what the hell I actually did and how to fix it I greatly appreciate it. Some before and after pics of the progress so far. Thanks, Bob

Well the shippers had to replace a wheel already as they curbed the hell out of it getting it onto the flat bed. They are new and they work for me, for now. I will eventually be changing them but that is far down the line after everything else is completed. I will likely need to stick with 19's as I do plan on buying brembo GT-S brakes for the front and rear.

It did not happen to me, I bought it with the things damaged and or missing. I was ok with it as it took me almost a year to find this one. I just did not know it would be so hard to find some of these things. But, I finally found the last 2 oem pieces I needed and should be shipped from the US in a couple weeks. I am debating going back to an oem front bumper as I really don’t care for fiberglass. But, it works for now.

https://fb.watch/9uhb7Y4vWB/ here was the dyno video

I have been able to source some things from yahoo auctions thankfully. I was going to have the rear pieces 3D printed but found someone who had them for sale finally!! That was the last thing to get this interior back together. Im not a huge fan of the red seats but they will have to do for now

Waiting on parts to arrive basically. Have some things here just waiting for more to come in for the build. Here are some of what came in. Glass euro headlights, facelift tails, PHR covers, breather, and power steering reservoir, Hypertune intake, poly exhaust hangers to hopefully stop the rattle, and some new oem plastics.

I can not disagree with this at all, as soon as I found out I was being stationed here I started looking. I would love to redo the turbo setup but, for now I am going to leave it go as I want to have everything else in place. I have my hypertune intake and 90mm tb, as probably the main install this winter. The main hunt while I am here has been for interior pieces to replace what I have going on, the hunt for these has been crazy and down to the last 2 above the rear shock tower. I am having some 3d printed but would love to grab an oem set at some point.

Yes I have been, for some things it is possible to find on yahoo auctions and most of the shipping for me is around 20 dollars. Although some things just are not on there.

I like your style I went full satin back . I am Deciding on injectors currently between the injector dynamics 1300 and fuel injector clinic 1440. Trying to see if I can get either of these on sale for Black Friday.

Pete, the turbo will probably be the last upgrade I do. I am starting to look at what I want to run. I have some parts coming in and things to put on but will be in stages for sure. The car was setup well about 10 plus years ago but is showing her age. I also am not sure what turbo setup I want to run. I will eventually replace everything from the exhaust housing to the intake manifold. I finally got my hypertune manifold delivered but will have to wait a bit for the install, as I have to wait for everything else to get here.

Pics would likely be helpful. I generally would say to use a wire brush and get all the loose rust away, then use steel wool if the area allows then paint with some sort of chassis paint. If you are in an area with road salt, or ocean salt spray I would use a product like wool wax and undercoat the whole thing in the fall. Does not smell the greatest and is messy of you do it on floor jacks in your garage, but works.

I had a hell of a time finding one here in Japan that was not totally molested, still was not cheap but was able to find a 6 speed RZ.

Looking for the 2 missing rear boot plastics if anyone has any laying around or would like to sell me theirs. Thanks for looking.

Looks great. would love to see some more pics of the build.

This first post will be rather pic heavy. I have been stationed here in Japan for a year and have been looking for an RZ Supra since I got here. after a few months waiting for it to be delivered, I finally had it delivered. I have ordered some parts that will keep me busy this winter, but my main focus has been cleaning up and replacing the pieces in the interior that were missing or broken. I am still missing the 2 pieces in the rear trunk area that re being 3d printed while I source OEM ones, hopefully. So if anyone has them please let me know

I have the PHR catch can. I retrofitted but have not installed yet.

Simon, thanks. I am waiting on so many parts to get here to upgrade over the winter. The real struggle is finding 2 interior plastic pieces by in the rear boot area that no one has.

That is something honestly that I did not know about the under hood Insulation. Thanks for the knowledge boost I always thought it was to keep heat off the hood.