SteveL

Just to add, these are up for sale as I wanted to move up to 3 way adjustable suspension and I can't afford the ohlins 3 way setup! (somewhere in the region of £1500 per corner) As my driving style/experience has increased I'm now looking to add the extra tuning that the 3 ways can offer.

... good man - it makes sense! R888's - only if your going to track the car. They're fine to use on road to get to and from a track (and somewhat entertaining in the wet!) but you don't get anywhere near the tyre temps that are generated on a track to get the full use out of them. They're pretty good in the wet as well on track, but that's another thread . There's plenty of road tyres that will hold the kind of power you will have. I personally don't have a recommendation but I'm sure others will help out...

..ah, ok so it'll cost you £2500 to change to a TT? Thats fair enough. If you only wanted around 300bhp then a stock TT would have done, but the extra £1000's not a small sum.... fair play. Just thought it may be an alternative? Long term when selling the car on you may reap the benefits - I'm not sure how people will react to the 'converted' N/A?

Isn't it easier to ditch the NA and buy a TT? (Sorry if its a crap post, but why take all the time and effort when there are plenty out there straight from the factory?)

... sounds like heat dissipation issues, to boil decent fluid (if it is?) and what sounds like warping discs you may well need some ducting to aid cooling. I take it you only get fade on track? Have a word with Paul about the R4 pads - they should be fine. What discs are they? (presuming that the calipers are UKs?) If they've started juddering after Llandow then deffo get them checked as Bignum suggested.

is that on track or road?

Porterfield R4S pads don't fade on track so they'll be fine on roads. I used to used them on the road and were perfect - no warmup time to bite either so safe on the road even though they're track pads. One thing only slightly mention (Chris I think) ... Tyres! You can have 'carlos fandango' brakes and if the tyre are shite, you'll just slide or not stop if ABS is enabled as it wont be able to find any grip. So please don't spend +£2000 on your 6/8/10/12 pot conversion and stick nangkan crappers!

... at least its not personal then OK heres some advise.... Buy the biggest full set of 12 pots you can find in dayglow orange and wack those on, don't upgrade the fluid and have fun

Is it me or is no one reading this thread...! Surely spending £1500 on a front brake upgrade and leaving the rears stock is a waste of effort/money and everyone's time on this thread who's trying to help?! - and dangerous in the wet !!! As Chris and at least 3 others have pointed out, the UK stock system is perfectly adequate for road/track day use with the right pads/discs. I don't say much often, but I've experienced some decent and crap brake setups on Supes on track... but it's your money. Get down to the basic question... do you want the car to work properly or just look good??? Basically were back to the questions earlier in the thread....

... no need to mate, thats pretty much it! Without getting too techy, and in a track environment, the only time you are on the brakes and steering is 'trail braking' but thats a whole different technique. On the road you can and most people do brake in corners when under normal conditions - you can because the dynamics of the car are no where near the limits (generally speakining). .... exactamundo. You could try the UK's first - if you don't like them you can sell them on and try an upgrade. At least you'll know where you started from.

funny thing is, when you've gone single you actually loose weight, so you'd really need less braking! (...grabs a beer and waits for comments )

... very good point that man... One of the first things I did before going single was brakes! Suspension's another thing... but lets not go there;)

carrying on from dandan's advice.... I'd stick with the uk spec setup all round, decent pads and fluids. The K-sport have been used in Time Attack by a number of teams but I never heard any reports on effectiveness. Also, bare in mind how lardy a Supra really is because some of the kits out there fit but won't necessarily stop it well. I run : Front - AP 356mm discs + 6 pot KAD Rear - stock discs + KAD 6 pot Motul RBF600 fluid ducting to the front discs competition pads bias valve - and have never had braking issues in competition or track days.... so based on that anything more will be overkill. Remember wheel sizes as well - some of the kits won't fit! HTH

You can run whatever you want, but in most cases unless your in need of some serious sustained braking power then I'd stick with a full oem uk spec and decent pads. If your after the serious stuff then you need to buy a matched setup where the manufacturer has at least done some development into what is needed. I would never consider running a setup that is just cobbled together (for want of a better description!) as you have no idea what braking forces are available and what balance you have. Just consider the situation where every time you brake in the wet the rear end swaps with the front.... not clever or funny. As already mentioned there are some tin-pot 'shiney' systems out there that are crap.... Toyota did a very good job with the car design.

I run 6 pot front and rear, but the rears are smaller pots to balance the braking. All depends on the pot sizes.

One of the guys got a drive-by of me at Brands this weekend if that's any good? I can also do a tick-over one...

quick update on the exhaust (its been mentioned in the main thread)... At Brands on Sunday, according to Time Attack sound tests it registered 101dB at approx 5500rpm, so its got a track day friendly sound level

Well done mate, its good to see new people joining in. Funny how the perception is different on what time attack is once you've had a go... it becomes a bit too addictive. Top man for stepping up and trying and as Paul said - try and do Snetterton as it really suits the Supras. Loads of run off as well.

... I know.... But some people like things to look nice

Just to add, its 104db (according to Brands noise test) @ approx 5000 rpm, which for most is a higher rpm than normal (rev limit on mine is 8500) so it would be even lower. Its definitely quieter driving on the road and cruises nicely at about 70-80mph. and as I don't have any soundproofing its more comfortable to drive without the helmet on! The rear box also has a nice look to it inside the tail pipe :-)

well theres a number 1 c0ck! Someone should take a screen shot of his advert and put that on ebay under the title "Print of a king Nob trying to make money from someone else" Nice car, but its not even a decent photo... Lets all ask silly questions to the seller

hows these.... they come with free blue/white philips side light bulbs

I've got some indicators mate, the ones that go in the front pods on the bumper? I'll post a pic up later if that sound right?

FYI - were in garage 7A just to the right of the pedestrian bridge

good idea mate, I haven't had time to do anything with this... had to get the dash sorted for the racepak first! You coming up to Silverstone next weekend?