AeroMatt

Yes that's correct, you do turn into the slide. You turn the steering to the left and the back slides out to the right. You therefore turn the wheels to the right (into the slide) to catch it.

Here is the flowchart for which cat test is required for the MOT. My car being an 94 NA (not in their book as ts an import with no UK equivalent) would need the non cat test. At my last MOT my double decatted supe wuld have passed the cat test comfortably anyway!

Soft here too

I got 84 doing it normally but have worked out how to make it easier. Stick a post it over where the first half of the word will be and you will only focus on the colour. Then the only issue is the speed at which you react, it helps if you move the pointer back to the middle of the buttons each time.

I'm looking into the possibility of selling my Supra and getting an old MR2 t-bar turbo for a few thousand to hopefully help with paying for a wedding next year. Obviously I'd rather keep the Supe, but if I could swap it for an MR2 and get a few thousand pounds back then it would be worth it. So roughly how much do you think it would be worth; 1994 Supra SZ Aerotop (auto) in storm blue. Approximately 84k miles 18" Khan RSR alloys with good tyres Long MOT and about 4 months tax Cat 1 Laserline alarm/immob Clarion MP3 head unit with Infinity speakers Carbon fibre effect dash with blue LED conversion HID headlights Clear front / side indicators TRL Speed Limit Defender No fugly rear fog light!! Unfortunately, I don't have any recent pictures, however its in very good condition overall. There are a couple of very minor dings in the body which can only be seen in certain lights (car doors being opened onto it!). I've attached a picture before the clear lights were put on the front. I bought the car just over a year ago for £7995 and have spent a fair bit on it since. I would be hoping for somewhere between £5000-6000 (preferably the higher end!) Any input would be appreciated.

Does anyone know if the clear reverse lights from a pre facelift rear cluster would fit into the facelift ones, if so I'd be interested in a set of facelift rears. Thanks,

I had the exact same problem too, hairline crack just under the bleed nipple on the passenger side front. Very worrying!

While we're on the subject, does anyone know where I can get some type T-IV ATF. I've tried my local Toyota dealership who said they don't stock it and can't order it. I've been round all my local motor factors and other parts places but nowhere has even heard of the stuff. I'm in Bedfordshire by the way if anyone knows somewhere reasonably close.

You can get Xerd headers from the US for the N/A, I was looking to get some for mine but decided against it in the end as I don't think the standard 02 sensors will fit. Plus the shipping cost they quoted was silly money (between $160 - $220) However, if you are interested they are $289 from http://www.naperformance.com. Search for Xerd on the site and its the 3rd item in the list.

I'm having exactly the same problem, however I'm not sure what benefits 1.13 gives over 1.11 so I'm leaving mine as is for now. You may be able to find an answer at; http://www.emanageusers.com/ its a very useful forum for emanage information. They are in the process of working out how to update the firmware on the blue emanage to the gold version.

This is quite long, but worth reading (IMO!) and all true. When I was 12, my family and I moved to a large old house in a small village nearby. The place was seriously big, it had three staircases, nine bedrooms and a ball room! The only reason we could aford it was it needed a load of work doing to it, so there were areas in the house you didn't go as they were very rough. So we'd moved in and despite our best efforts we could never got the house warm, which we put down to it being a big place with an old heating system. Even in the summer, you'd walk through the front door and get a shiver. After we'd been there a couple of months, I started getting recurring nightmares about an old woman with long white hair, dressed in all white who would be standing above me pushing down at my throat. So much so that I found it virtually impossible to move and it took minutes to fight against the force holding me down and lift myself up. It was such a weird experience, but I realised that these were just dreams and I was being stupid, so didn't feel the need to tell anyone. We lived in the house for about three years and moved out shortly after my stepdad died and that was all that happened to me, but it was what my mum told me when we left the house that freaked me out; My mum and stepdad had gone to bed one night and woke up to find that their bed had moved to the middle of the room, and all the furniture (including a really solid wardrobe which took 4 people to move back) had moved so it was around the bed preventing them getting out. They both said it wasn't them who had done it and each of them thought the other was playing a joke, so thought nothing more of it. However, a few months after my stepdad died, the same thing happened again when my mum was on her own. The bed had moved to the middle and the furniture had boxed her in. She spoke to my aunt about what had happened and my aunt said that she and my cousin had seen what they thought was a ghost while staying at the house, it was an elderly woman dressed in a white robe and long white hair who was sitting in a chair watching them. They'd drunk a lot that night so put it down to that, but both of them saw it. Funnily enough, when we moved from that house the nightmares stopped and I've never had another one since. I never used to believe in any of this stuff, but when it happens to you and people who you trust its hard not to.

I've taken off both my cats and performance wise the difference it makes isn't really noticeable. It seems to have a bit more go right up the rev range, but nothing major. With the rear section replaced as well it seems to make a bit more difference. This is all going on how the car feels to me as I haven't had it dyno'd. Regarding the MOT, my local place put it up for a non cat test which it sailed through. I can't remember the figures but the examiner said it would have easily passed the cat test anyway. Oh and yes its quite loud!

David Baddiel?

Just to complete this, Dude answered on another thread and I took his advice with a slight change. (I used a 10mm socket rather than an allen key) I can't believe how simple this actually was. I used a 22mm (or 7/8" would do it) swan neck ring spanner for the large nut and used a ratchet with a 10mm socket in the centre to hold the shaft in place. I wedged the ratchet against the left of the engine bay and forced the large nut anticlockwise using the spanner. Its probably worth changing this pulley if you're going to the trouble of doing the others as I found the biggest difference in weight between the alternator ones. Hope this helps

Sorry to hijack, well not really, its still pulley based! Terry / Dude, can you tell me how to remove the alternator pulley? I'm in the process of fitting some lightweight pulleys and this one doesn't seem so straightforward to take off and I don't want to risk damaging it by forcing it the wrong way. I'd really appreciate any advice you can give me.

I don't know if this will be any help (it wasn't to me!). Here's Toyota's method of removing the alternator pulley. If you work out an easier way, please let me know.

I'm 26

I'm not swapping the crank pulley as I've heard that the lightweight ones upset the harmonics and cause premature engine wear. I don't know how true this is, but if you search on SupraForums for "crank pulley" you'll see what I mean. However, if I was to swap this one out I'd probably use the starter method to crack it free. I've swapped the PS one which was the easiest, you just need to put a bar through the pulley against the block to hold it in place and unbolt it. The fan pulley was easy enough too (4 x 12mm nuts), the only stumbling block was getting off the fan shroud to get at it. I just need to get that alternator one changed now.

I'm installing some lightweight pulleys and have managed to get them all on except for the alternator one. I've read through the Toyota manual which is about as clear as mud (Using 3 SST's and a vice!). So has anyone done this with the alternator still on the car and how exactly is it done? I'm guessing that you use a 10mm socket for the middle to hold the pulley steady and a ring spanner to unscrew the larger nut. I gave this method a quick try but as it wasn't giving, decided I'd check the right way before really forcing it. Thanks, Matt

I'd better stop trying before I break it then! Cheers mate

I've just realised that my head rests are set too low for me as they touch where the back of my head joins my neck which wouldn't help in a rear end shunt. I've just tried moving it and can't seem to shift it. There's a plastic clip on one side which seems like a release catch but it won't budge. Are they actually adjustable and if so how? Thanks

I'm also planning on replacing mine too as I have no idea when (if ever) it was last changed. So is it simply a matter of unbolting old the old one, bolting on the new one and jobs a goodun? Cheers,

If you have a decent image editor, open it up in that and play with the brightness/contrast.

I asked the seller to give some more information regarding the mods, here's what he replied; "HKS cams,HKS pulleys,Remart dcu,adjustable fuel pressure,uprated clutch,uprated diff,thats all i know.I spoke to the importer and they remember the car.Its had a lot done to it but without them looking at the car again its difficult know whats been done.Hope this helps." I've never heard of a Remart DCU? Anyone else?

Thats good news. I wasn't really sure about 8000k, I've seen conflicting colour charts everywhere and don't know which to believe. Lots of 8000k kits on ebay who claim they're the same as new BMW / Range Rover colour. Thanks for the info anyway, much appreciated.