Ark

Never used 'leaky feeders' but a quick bit of research says to me you don't want/need a system designed for use in mines. Base stations and repeaters are so cheap that you might as well run a little more cat5 and put the APs closer to the users.

Now quick - rip it to MP3 and join the late 20th century!

As a spin-off from this topic, I found myself wondering the other day, whether or not the mating surface of a wheel could be machined down to give more offset -say from a +32 to a +50 tyo suit a Supra.

Probably not to LOOK for them, just to hook into them. If it's legitimate for you to use, them you would know the details. This can be classified as computer mis-use, theft of resources, or hacking - some European states even make it a criminal offense with a prison term attached. Realistically you are unlikely to be caught, but you have to make your own mind up whether to do it.

So you're struggling with the #2 engine cover - the big one further back, which often needs to be removed for oil changes and stuff - there are 2 different types of bolts used for the front and back which screw into captive nuts on the frame; they also use self tapping screws for the sides, which screw into plastic chimney nuts (clip on nuts). You can buy the whole lot from Toyota for a few quid - recommended, but only if you can extract the sheared bolts, which will be a pig of a job if they've been there a while.

What happened? PM me if you prefer.

You just missed a Levin someone was selling in Basingstoke Track prepped and he only wanted just over £2k.

First, prise off the speaker grill. Then pop out the rear seat base. Then unbolt the rear seat back. That should reveal all of the screws needed to remove the side trim. Good luck.

Toyota recommend 10W30 (10W40 will be fine). 5 litres needed. 0-weight oil will be too thin, especially as we're coming out of winter now. Oh, and Toyota will sell you a genuine filter and sump plug gasket for about £7.

In the same amount of time that it's taken BT to upgrade me from 512 to 1mb (!), Virgin have gone from 10mb to 100mb...it's just plain embarassing. By the time all this 21CN stuff gets deployed far enough to be interesting, the game will have moved on again and Britain will still be languishing low on the speed leaderboards (you think Sweden et al are resting on their laurels?). Plus I resent being charged even more each month on line rental to subsidise the upgrade work.

I'm sure one of the traders will be happy to get some SuperPro (or A.N. Other brand) bushes for you.

The cusco one pictured above has a huge weak-spot in the middle.

Never tried the Teins, but I just looked at some pictures on their website and the spring coils do look very close together. Maybe as the car settled onto them, the compression put them SO close there was no room left to move so they achieved full compression on small bumps - not enough travel to absorb the bump equals a hard crashy ride.

Eh, part of a turn, 2 turns...I don't remember. It wasn't much either way. Still, all you were doing at that point was taking up the slack rather than really compressing the spring. If you'd kept on winding you'd probably have found the effort stayed about the same (ignoring the effect of it feeling harder because it's tiring work), or increased at a linear rate. On a progressive spring the effort required increases at a non-linear rate. Think of this: if you were to wind up the spring seat by 1cm while the car was on its wheels, the car rises by 1cm, but the force compressing the spring remains the same because the car hasn't got any heavier - on a graph of force against compression, you're still at the same point. Many of the more expensive kits also use non-progressive springs - the Bilstein B2 coilovers that I fitted to the wifes car for example - which only adjust ride height by moving the spring seat. Now, I think that Bilstein know more about suspension than I do, so if that approach works for them, it must be OK.

Well let me put it this way, the coils on the HSD springs are all uniformly spaced, so the rate must logically be the same (non-progressive). The setup instructions I worked to when installing mine merely said that both sides needed to be set to the same ride height and the spring seats hand-tightened then 3/4 of an extra turn with a spanner to stop them rattling. It is important to get them the same, but remember these are budget coilovers not super high-spec infinitly adjustable ones - nobody would buy el-cheapo suspension and then spend hundreds of pounds getting them set up just right.

I'm pretty sure that HSDs don't have progressive rate springs, so "pre-loading" or just plain compressing them to change the ride height does't make any difference.

If the spigot rings pop out, the tyre shops usually balance wheels with them out, same as with the centre caps. Sounds a lot like a bent wheel to me - had it too many times myself. Just a small buckle will have that effect, but will technically take a balance according to the machine so the tyre shop will just pass it along. How much weight did they have to add?

Don't Know I'm afraid - the wife booked it, and I think it's full. Yes, I will be in the Supra.

We're there on the 25th...

Are you going to be able to dump enough heat, with those coolers smack in front of the radiator, and right behind the intercooler?

And do they have dirt-boots, covers and all that?

Hey Martin, As stock the NA should run 225/45x16 all round, with a 50 offset. If you stick a 9" wheel on there, you'll need to run a 255 for the tyre not to look stretched, and with that offset you'll hit the arches on compression (depending on stiffness and lowness of course). What kind of tyres are you using ATM? Better rubber might be all you need to fix the understeer.

Interesting. I'll get the wife to try some of those next time she ruins her 888's and we'll compare the results.

I'm surprised no one has said "Don't damage them, and sell to me at a bargain price!"

Interesting comment - everyone else raves about how great 888's are. What's your reasoning?