Ark
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Everything posted by Ark
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Ugly car, don't see the fascination to be honest. But it did OK in the Nurburgring 24 hour race
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Those were course-cars for the 24 hour race - strictly no numpties out there that day!!
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Best thing to do is make a note of some specialists who'll tow you home from Nurburg for a fraction of the price the RAC wanted. Or send the car to a garage that won't take the piss.
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FWIW the bent bit in the middle is about 18 inches long, looks a lot more than the one in your picture. Plus they are red.
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No mate, they're a completely different shape. The TRD ones bend further off to the side to get underneath the the lower rad hose.
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Oh Please! If you changed your routes every time someone had an accident you'd never go anywhere with the number of little road-side "shrines" adorning the curbs. Get a grip.
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Looks like a George and Mandy to me mate. HTH!
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So, the parents dumped their kid in a dangerous place "to play". Right. Maybe the parents should be made to pay for the repairs to the car for their bad parenting. At age 6, I wasn't allowed out of our street alone, and was rigorously drilled on the dangers of crossing the road.
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Am I the only one wondering where the parents were, and why a young child wasn't being supervised near the road?
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They do - they put huge amounts of effort into that. Requirement #1: Look good in the coffee shop. Requirement #2: see #1 We have one. It's shit. Only good thing about it is the instant switch on when you just want to quickly check something.
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Morning All, Does anyone know of a good place to buy sheet aluminium in central Hampshire? For the small quantity I want, it'll be more trouble than it's worth to try and order over the net. This is so I can start making ducting plates for my asorted coolers and rads - gotta do something more to drop temperature on track! Thanks
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Which garage are you using? You know you only need one CAT left in to pass MOT, right?
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Sure it wasn't your driving rather than the power Si?
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Ah, well the point still stands that you won't need an FCD if you're keeping the first cat, and don't have a boost controller to raise boost further. You _may_ see more benefit from a 3" pipe, but it'll be a trivial difference.
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For the money I've spent keeping my sequential twins running, with turbo re-builds (x2), VSV problems (x1), EGC valve problems (x3) etc, I could probably have done a small single build. Like Bignum, I'm getting to the point with my style of use that early boost delivery and no 2nd turbo spool-up would suit me much better. Plus modern turbos are worlds apart from the old fashioned stuff - I'm, liking the sound of those EFR turbos coupled with a log manifold for strength and response...
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Hi Andrew, You'll be fine with a 2.5" pipe. It'll fit fine as they're all designed to be fit 'n forget direct replacements. You'll see no benefit from a 3" system apart from more noise. No need for an FCD on a non-turbo buddy.
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I tried a bunch of other cars, nothing showed data from before 1994. Who knows whether it's accurate...and does it matter? Really?
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http://howmanyleft.co.uk/?q=toyota+supra
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I did get a 2mm to go through, but curiously the 3mm doesn't want to chase it down... Next time I'll remember to use a drop of 3-in-1. Should I get hold of a variable speed drill too? Would the single speed power drill I have be too fast? No mate, it got sheared flush with the plate - nothing left to grip. Ah hah! Maybe that's the ticket. The rate I'm snapping those B&D Piranna drill bits, that would probably work out cheaper! Are those suitable for hand drills though? The info suggests they are intended for proper machining use.
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I've got a small problem with a sheared bolt on the radiator clamp - annoying. So I'm trying to drill and extract it, but am having real trouble just drilling through - I've already snapped two drill bits and blunted at least one more. Has anyone got any hints and tips for this, or bright ideas for getting the bolt out? Thanks
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Hi Martin, If you're bouncing the back end high enough for the spring to un-load, you're effectively bouncing the wheel off the ground anyway because you've run out of suspension travel...raising the spring seat may keep the spring under compression, but you'll have the same problem because the wheel can't droop any further.
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Have you had the dash out recently? I dropped one of the connectors doing that once (the one for the hazard lights) and that stopped the indicators working.
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Think about it: the average house costs about £250,000. Worst case scenario is that each new 50+ retirer owes 100% of this. Investing the remaining £750,000 at 3% gives an annual income of £22,500, which is also around the national average. It actually makes a lot of sense.
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He never told me. I'll find out and let you know.
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I know someone who's selling a caterham supersport. Race ready with trailer.
