Ark

Knock it down and re-build to suit - timber frame with plastic weather boarding would be cheap enough and reasonably durable.

Also look into getting a nuisance order imposed - they specifically address the issue of smoke: https://www.gov.uk/guidance/statutory-nuisances-how-councils-deal-with-complaints https://www.gov.uk/guidance/nuisance-smoke-how-councils-deal-with-complaints

HSDs are now available with your choice of spring rate, at least when ordering from Driftworks

A race team principle once spent half an hour boring me about how his team had found the regulation wiring harness could return less electrical resistance by mechanically stressing it to nearly breaking before use, which caused some trivial percentage performance improvement. Of course the harness would only last one race, but it was apparently worth it. And of course there are the apocryphal stories of 'widebody' Jags, which were cut 'n shuts with a few inches added in the middle; when challenged on the authenticity of the shells they would claim 'of course they're real, I bet you'll see several in the specators car park', which of course they'd seeded with similarly modified road cars...

A brita filter kitchen tap I bought used plastic pipe and push-fit fixings to handle mains pressure water - never dripped once, unlike the brass compression isolation valve it connected to. As with all things, buy quality fittings for peace of mind, and remember to use the inserts so the ends of the plastic pipe don't collapse in the joints. Oh, and with the price of copper you can save a small fortune by using plastic pipes for the whole bathroom.

I'm only an amateur DIY plumber but I'd say for £150 and an easier job, yes do it. Maybe even swap out your circulating pump and control valves while it's all drained. Bitter experience has taught me that direct replacement plumbing parts are never quite plug 'n play, so always expect some buggering about. However, if you use push fit tank connectors (like these) you can join back to your existing copper pipes with a bit of plastic pipe - doddle. I'm sure real plumbers would throw their hands up in horror but hey, it works. And my entire plumbing systems appears to have been professionally installed on a 'hey, it works' basis.

I went down the Halfords route because its easy and sort of of cheap, but they no longer do the insert-trays full of tools, which means ill-fitting inserts cobbled together. If you like a tool chest perfectly organised and presented, maybe look at the Sealey range...loads of insert selections. Also note that different brands have slightly different dimensions so one brands inserts won't perfectly fit another's drawers. Of course if you're fine with drawers full of loose tools, it's a moot point. Also my Halfords chests have lost a few ball bearings along the way, and im not sure where from, wheels or the drawer runners. I've just found the balls on the garage floor.

I understand that RSP first appeared in late 96 with the first facelift models, vvti only appeared in 98 (or thereabouts) so there was a window where both existed. I expect one could check the VIN plate against age, paint code and engine code to verify. One funny side note about the early facelift examples is that they had pre-facelift steering wheels and seats, almost like they had stock in the factory to use up Thanks everyone for the comments, both positive and .... constructive I've been talking with local restoration garages about straigtening the sills and jacking points, and fixing the rust bubbles - we'll see where that takes us. In the meantime the feedback is great, and I've no urgent need to sell so I can hold out for the right offer. Maybe I'll even hold on to it as an investment if prices are still on the up.

Did I mention something about not having a lot of time? I finally uploaded some pictures...but thanks to the poor weather they aren't nicely polished up.

That has to be a wind-up surely. That was a £100k+ car when new...Pistonheads is listing them at over £200k now! I mean if the guy _wants_ to rip himself off then I'll be pleased to accomodate him, but seriously?!?!?

After 11 years ownership I'm thinking of trading up and driving something younger - kids don't leave me the time needed to look after a 20 year old car any more! So as per title, the car is a 1997 JDM TT6 facelift non-VVTI in royal sapphire pearl (metallic blue) with ~167,000 miles on the clock. It's modified to run 419 BHP with the following: WEDS SA70 wheels (18x9 & 18x10 running 255 front and 285 rear tyres) Recaro Speed seats with Bride rails AP Racing 355mm 6-piston front brakes with genuine AP disks and Ferrodo pads, UK-spec brakes rear, braided brake lines all round HSD coilovers TRD ARBs with renewed droplinks TRD front strut brace Carbing rear strut brace Cusco brake cylinder brace Defi BF gauges - full set (6 gauges), including control unit and sensors with Envy A-pillar pod Alpine stereo headunit Pioneer rear speakers Blitz boost controller with SBC-ID Blitz turbo timer TRL delimiter Steel-bladed hybrid turbos (should be good for 1.4 bar, only ever run at 1.2 bar) Blitz NUR-Spec exhaust with mid-pipe and baffle Colder spark plugs Carbing oil catch can HKS oil filter relocation HKS SSQV BOV Mocal oil cooler with braided lines Mocal PAS cooler with braided lines Greddy 3 row intercooler with hard pipe kit Fluidyne radiator with aluminium overflow tank Mishimoto thermostat FSE fuel pump FSE FPR RPS StreetMax clutch HID headlight conversion (full set. Plastic lenses could do with refurb) Clear front indicators Probably more that I've forgotten... It's currently showing a private registration plate which is non-year specific; I expect I'll leave it on the car. Some surface rust bubbles need attention, and general paintwork. Passed MOT with no issues (February). Lots of service history with specialist garage. I also have a stash of parts available at additional cost; these were bought for further modding, but never actually fitted or used: Front de-cat pipe (never used) HKS mushroom filter Greddy eManage ultimate (new in the box, with plug 'n play loom) Innovate wideband sensor kit (new in the box) Pictures, dyno plots etc in my garage. [ATTACH=CONFIG]219938[/ATTACH] I've got no burning need to sell immediately, so based on current advertised prices I'm initially asking £18,000.

Who did you get it from? And did you fit glass or plastic for the rear window? What is the final fit 'n finish like?

As long as the hanset has a network connection it can triangulate its approximate position from the cell towers, even if GPS is blocked...better than nothing I guess. Of course if the thieves bring a full spectrum jammer then you're still stuffed. HOWEVER, if you use an android handset with Google latitude it will periodically report its location anyway...the theives will have to switch off their jammer eventually...

It's your first trackday - don't sweat it. It's unlikely you'll be going hard enough to trouble the car much as long as you're sensible. Don't bother wasting time setting things up or buggering about with tyre pressures - just drive and adjust if need be. It's best if the car handles like you're already accustomed to from the road. As for car prep: fill 'er up with petrol. Thats all.

OK, for the benefit of everyone who is desperate to know the resolution to this topic: 1: The main beam only illuminates at the SAME TIME as the low beam, regardless of whether you are using the flasher or permanent-on switch. 2: My bodge-o-rama of wiring is fine; it was the el-cheapo fuse holder in my Chinese HID kit that is failing because it isn't weather proof. I gave it a good jiggling about and it started working again...for now. Need to order something like this to replace it: http://www.demon-tweeks.co.uk/performance/fuse-relay-boxes/auto-marine-splash-proof-fuse-holder 3: Is that Martin, hiding behind a new identity? Thanks for the helpful comment you cheeky young scamp. How the devil are you?

Well, in direct contradiction to posts 2 and 3, another member has told me that his flasher illuminates _both_ high and low beams (which means I've not got crossed wires, just a fault in my HIDs, probably the fuse or relay).

I assume that is directed at me...the low beam does stay on, because I've got the lights turned on. If I turn off the lights and flash, I get a flash (from the low beam).

OK thanks - looks like the electrical gremlins have paid me a visit then. No other explanation, because nobody has touched the car for ages.

Hello, Odd question perhaps, but when you flash the main beam, which bulbs are supposed to come on? The main ones obviously, but does the low beam come on too? Somehow I'd swear I've got a crossed wire because only the low beam lights up with the flasher... Thanks

We might be up for this too. I would reemphasise how much better a dedicated trackday is though - empty circuit, fewer numpties, rolling recoveries where possible...it's so easy to lose the majority of a big TF weekend to closures. Destination Nurburgring did us a great two-day deal earlier this year.

A rollcage for a couple of track days? A bit overkill, isn't it?

Since my last visit to the Nurburgring, the Supra has developed a new noise: a metallic grinding, whirring noise. Now, I know it is related to the AC because the noise goes away when I turn it off. The AC does work, just about (it's short on gas I expect) but is the noise more likely to be the magnetic clutch, or the compressor itself? How expensive are either of these components? Thanks