Ark

What on earth do you need 4k for in a dashcam? You're not making hollywood movies, just gathering basic video evidence in case of an incident... A Nextbase 112 is about £22 on Amazon; only does basic 720p video on SD card but it's cheap, simple and adequate. Get a second one to cover the rear view and you're sorted. GPS and wifi are nice features, but pretty unnecesary really.

They're good if you do track days or have an aerotop - in the latter case the front and rear are almost mandatory in my opinion. Otherwise I probably wouldn't bother. I'd recommend the Carbing braces if they're still available - the front incorporates a brake cylinder brace and both front and rear are solid one-piece braces, so no unwanted flex points.

Ooh no I wouldn't go with that - 1800 lumens per bulb isn't very good. Someone mention Nighteye earlier in the thread. Have a look at their website (now branded Novtec or some such) - for a small amount more money you can have HB4 bulbs producing 4 times as many lumens.

Not sure that's true any more - normal 35 watt HIDs produce something like 3000 lumens. Top end LEDs can now produce 8000 lumens (allegedly). The range and pattern of the light is controlled by legal limts so as not to dazzle oncoming drivers, and that doesn't change with the type of bulb used. According to Wikipedia (yeah, I know, pinch of salt blah blah), LED capabilities surpased HIDs back in 2013. edit: I currently use 35watt HIDs and passed MOT in May. If I needed to replace a bulb I'd give LEDs a go - for 50 quid a set it's cheaper than most Toyota branded parts I might want to refresh on the car, and can be reverted to halogen bulbs for MOT if needed.

Isn't that the MAF sensor? It doesn't look stock, but not as per the HKS mushroom filter I used to have. Speaking of which, I still have it on the shelf, including the metal bit, but there's no electronic doo-dah on the side.

I bought a handful of rubber ice hockey pucks for a few pounds that do exactly that. Spend a few minutes trimming them to fit and you've got jack-stand rubbers, trolley jack rubbers...whatever you need. Spreads the load nicely, and prevents any metal-on-metal scraping.

Really, that's news to me. Despite having owned 2 1997 Supras. Methinks someone pulled a fast one.

You've not actually said how much power it's making from that single turbo setup - if I was a prospective buyer, I'd wonder if it's working right...

I thought you had to refill via the Low pressure L cap, unless you've got all the proper gear including a pump. Otherwise you won't have enough pressure to blow the gas in there. Its what I did last time I gassed it from a refill cannister like this https://www.halfords.com/motoring/engine-oils-fluids/air-con/ez-chill-auto-air-conditioning-recharge-gas-r134a

I was talking about the whole AC delete, not the damper specifically.

I'm intrigued, do a lot of owners do this? I admit I've thought about it, because the system has become weak over the years and re-freshing it seems like a lot of work for little gain.

I found a different download link here: https://trust-power.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/03/Ultimate233-setup.zip Software version 233 ought to be somewhat better than version 109 on my CD...

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I've used Megazip a few times...not the fastest, but so far so good...

The ability to buy direct from a web catalogue without mucking about with third parties (including dealerships) please!

I'm not so sure - the MOT system is heavily computerised and has pass/fail thresholds for a reason. They won't even let you abort a test part way through to fix simple stuff like 'obstructed visibility' due to a satnav mount on the windscreen, they have to see it through.

Have you looked at the Pumpkin Audio range? Right kind of price, with GPS, reversing camera etc all in. No idea about the quality mind you...

https://finalformusa.com/shop/car-shop-glow-supra-mkiv-jza80-led-tail-lights/ Just stumbled across these... A bit Marmite, but it's an interesting freshener... But £1500! Ouch. Opinions? Could these be done cheaper I wonder, like the SRD led sidelights perhaps.

Don't ask us, ask a lawyer. Seriously, lawyer up and get your claim in with the administrators quick before whatever cash is left goes elsewhere, but be prepared for the possibility of getting nothing.

Are you sure it's warpage? Pad deposits can create the same shuddering feeling. Having said that I (thought I) warped lots of sets of stock disks on my facelift model. Eventually fitted APs and never looked back.

You might benefit from changing your price - these are available brand new next-day from Amazon, £136 the pair...

Pretty sure they just bolt on to the back of the hub, so if you can get the bolts out without stripping them then they'll slip straight off. They won't fit with big brake kits, so mine are long gone for that reason, never had it mentioned at MOT.

I'm seriously impressed...I want! How much does something like this cost (ballpark)? There must be a lot of older shells out there like mine, needing this kind of attention, so how much should I be budgeting?

I totally get the attraction of building stuff with funky coloured lights etc, but how about walking an alternative path - build a rig in the cloud with as much horsepower as you want. Only paying for the compute you actually use whilst playing, with an optimised AWS spot instance running at maybe 20 cents per hour...and somebody else has the hassle of babying the hardware and doing the networking. Then you just RDP the rendered desktop. Do the maths: someone mentioned a £295 build. At 20c per hour that 2 solid months of game time 24*7 before the expense break even, and you're not stuck with obsolete hardware to dispose of come upgrade time, you just click a button. done. Just a suggestion.