Ark

It's a standard USB type B connector; you can get one from Amazon for the princely sum of £4.69. For what it's worth, you don't get a cable in the box with the emanage anyway...

I tried out a couple of e-bikes - so easy to use. Great for local commuting, or exercise assistance. Maybe this is a personal thing, but 15 mph on a push bike is actually quite fast...going faster than that without proper equipment is just asking for trouble. Having said that, I have mates who 'chipped' their e-bikes without a second thought, and while they only off-road their bikes, who is ever going to know in the real world short of a police car pulling you over? It's just not enforceable.

Hello Jon, long time. Similar happened to me last year - battery just wouldn't hold a charge, voltage when running was down in the 11s. When I took the alternator off it was badly corroded, casing cracked... Got a brand new alternator from the local alternator guy for about £200 (I forget exactly), worked a treat. No need for the expensive shiny-shiny if you just want it functional. This guy, if you want to give him a try. https://www.jasm.co.uk/

Maybe try leaving a sachet of silica gel inside the light fitting after drying it out. Might not help, but it can't hurt to try.

I just cut off the small clamp and used a generic big clamp instead, but it would probably be better to change the entire negative cable for a new cable&clamp assembly from the local motor factor - it only reaches down just below the fusebox to bolt to the chassis. Positive is more complex but can be swapped for a suitable Toyota clamp.

Hello old buddy; we're fine thanks for asking. Still lurking about here, depending on work, kids and the state of my love/hate relationship with the car...mostly whether the car's working right or not...I never signed on for classic car ownership and all the strife that brings!

Only 10 8L5's built. That must be worth a bump in price if I ever sell up

It's gotta be something unexpected like China or Russia.

Hello, I've decided I'm probably never going to get round to installing the EMU I bought from a fellow club member some years ago, so I thought I'd see if anyone else wanted it before it goes to eBay. I have: Greddy eManage Ultimate, as-new in the box. I've never used it, and the previous club member assured me he only connected it up for long enough to see that it worked. All manuals, software CD etc are in the box. Greddy plug 'n play harness for 2JZ GTE Greddy 3 bar MAP sensor with harness Greddy A/F sensor connection harness Greddy injector correction adapter (resistor pack) #2 Greddy universal wiring harness (not required if you're using the plug 'n play harness, but it'll be no use to me without the EMU!) Based on eBay asking prices, I'll do the whole lot for £500.

OK true, there was a _small_ amount of oil condensed in the pipes, and mean a very small amount. The idea of the catch can is to use the increased volume to slow gas speed and therefore condense out and catch the vapour; maybe my can was too small to achieve that, or maybe the pipes were too long...all I know is it didn't work for me.

I had one on there for years, never caught a drop of fluid. Finally stripped it off as it clearly adds no value (for me).

Chapter 11 is normally protection from bankruptcy while they re-structure, so I think it's unlikely they'll collapse entirely; almost certainly tactical.

Old scraps of carpet here...it's still really dusty though. I'm painting the brick walls at the moment, and planning on doing the floor too. You have to seal it first else the inevitable dusty layer will prevent the paint from bonding properly, so it'll peel away in no time. You don't really want fluids soaking into the concrete - it might be rainwater today, but it could be oil or brake fluid tomorrow and you'll never clean it away; It'll still evaporate away as a surface puddle. Use high-grip textured paint if you're worried it'll be slippery. The best looking result IMO is resin coating, but it's more expensive than paint.

Ditto. Why is there no proper webshop? It's 2020 FFS. An eBay store with a few random bits just doesn't cut it. In the US there is a comprehensive shop, all part numbers searchable, so why not here?!?!

I used Skuzzle Motorsport near Sparsholt to re-fabricate my rusted arches and sills, and their mates next-door HD Paintworks to paint it afterwards...seems good to my untrained eye, and my usual mechanic was complimentary... I also heard good things about Paul Baker Metalwork near Fishers Pond, and Pitt Lane Classic Car Restorations, but they were both too booked up for my timeframe.

The oil seal can weep on the gearbox. As long as it's not pissing out it'll probably be OK for a while. I understand it's a gearbox-off job to change it though, so maybe wait until the clutch needs doing too. Or give Stuart Sandy a call and he can check it properly and tell you what's what (he's local to you). Also, are you sure it's oil rather than coolant? Might the heater matrix pipes leak and drip down to that area of the car?

https://www.nengun.com/behrman/headlight-repair-lens-kit-jza80-supra Has anyone seen these headlight lens replacements? Are they any good? I must say, £260 seems steep for a couple of pieces of plastic, but it better than many hundreds of pounds for entire lamp units.

For what it's worth, the local alternator specialist I was going to ask to rebuild my broken unit instead sourced me a brand new, tested and warranted unit for £192. Fits like a glove.

That looks nice and tidy, but doesn't the rad need supporting from both sides? If it's only supported at one side then it may flex or at least get stressed and eventually split...I'd think about fabricating a bracket to reach over to the outside edge, or drop down some threaded rod from the panel overhead to create a support.

I've had mine running a 10 row Mocal cooler mounted where the stock SMIC goes for years now. No trouble at all, except it must have taken a stone strike recently and started leaking. Couple of lengths of -6 JIC will push straight onto the stock metal hoses. Easy.

Thanks for the offer. Do you know whether it's a new or reconditioned unit?

Well, I took the old alternator off, planning to go down the refurb route (local guy quoted me £95 without seeing it)...but this thing is knackered. Every bit is corroded and nasty, and there's a big old crack in the housing...I'm surprised it worked at all. Been shopping around and I have to admit I'm cautious of these 80 quid ebay options...but I also don't want to pay 300£...

Looks like I need to replace my alternator... I found the stock part number (27060-46200-84) and that's fine, but I was curious what people thought about up-rated units like the Mechman ones, or the various ebay offerings. Pointless? Garbage? BOTH?!?!

Most pad manufacturers publish charts of pad dimensions - just pull the old pads out, take measurments and compare to the chart. Easy. Same goes for the disks. Or just call up Demon Tweeks and get them to look it up. There is no way Alcon made a wierd different caliper design just for a handful of specials with a different logo painted on.

Do the airbags connect up and work correctly? Always hated my original 4-spoke wheel, and those look smart.