Homer

Sorry buddy, already bought it.

Already done mate, it's fitted and working. It's got a UK engine in it so needed the UK ECU.

£0 for mine, but you might remember most of the car was missing @Nick hoodcongrats on your purchase, as others have said the price is incredible. No matter what happens to the car you're on a winner! For the leak I'd be checking the top driver side front corner seal (Where the aero roof, front window and side window meet. They're terrible for leaking there. Try some spearing some Vaseline (or other waterproof gel) on the seals and and see if it stops the leak, you might need to replace those f stops the leak. Another area to check is the vapor barrier behind the door card. It may be missing or damaged and can cause water to get into the cabin. There's potentially quite a few places water could be getting in but those are the most common points for what you describe. Also, the rear window should not be loose. I don't know if it's bonded or not but it certainly shouldn't move. That will need fixing

Updates from the last couple of days. Nothing significant, @evinX and I are just working through the list of things to fix/replace/source/install 1) Fuel tank has been cleaned and is installed 2) OEM Fuel return line is installed (not the easiest job!) 3) Fuel tank guard has been cleaned, wax oiled and installed. Looks almost like new! 4) All drivetrain bolts are torqued up 5) Car is now off the sleepers and back on axle stands so handbrake has been fitted 6) Arm rest is installed 7) Kev has fitted one of his gearbox conversion wiring kits and safely isolated the rest of the unused auto box wiring. We’ll put some P-clips in to support these next week. 8. UK airbox is in. It’s been a mission to source the parts for this and huge thanks to @Big Supes for supplying the all important MAF (amongst other things!) at a decent price 9) Started cleaning up the engine bay, this will be a long job as there’s a lot of corroded parts, however I’m working through sourcing and replacing these as time progresses 10) Cleaned up the one piece exhaust. Will fit this while I wait for oem cat pipes to arrive. It’s huge Well made though and appears to be full stainless, must have cost a fair bit to have this made. 11) Filled the gearbox with Motul gear 300 75w90. Next is the brake repairs/replacement which we will do next weekend. Other than that it’s going to be a wait for parts. I have a huge order coming in next month from Amayama and another order for at least 200 items will go into Toyota next week This project is consuming parts like crazy and it isn’t cheap or easy to get many of them! It’s incredible how many bits are missing from the car, by the end of it I think we’ll be around 500+ individual items installed. Just for for perspective, Kev is 6ft 1 lol

Damn, that's a shame about the fitment, they look great!!!

All sorted now, it just needed a lot of persuasion! Thanks @Tyson for the pictures, they helped confirm everything is where it should be!

I can’t seem to get the UK spec airbox installed correctly. It fits fine without the intake pipe, but there appears no way to install it with the pipe in place. The intake pipe has the same model number on all TT supras, so it doesn’t appear that it’s the wrong one The airbox and MAF are UK spec. Chassis is jspec facelift but from what I could find there doesn’t appear to be any difference in the mounting points. Any ideas what might be wrong? Could it be that the intake pipe doesn’t have enough flex in it? It’s been dipped so I wonder if that’s done something to it. I don’t recall how much these flex as standard but this one has almost none.

PM’d.

Unused and still boxed. These have been sat for several years, there is some surface rust on the pressure plate which will come off easy with a wire wheel. I can also provide a barely used release bearing and a new pilot bearing if needed. I believe these are £350+ from Toyota. £100

Yes, I was expecting them to be corroded but they're in great condition. I suspect they were changed out not long before the car was taken off the road, in fact its the only line I don't need to change! I'm replacing all other fluid lines in the car (Brake, clutch, fuel, water)

Long day today but lots of progress. We installed: - Prop shaft - TRD diff - TT ABS driveshafts - Clutch slave cylinder - Clutch master cylinder (Now fully fitted) - Clutch pedal (now fully fitted) - Shifter - OEM black carpet - Fuel feed line (tank flexi and line to fuel filter) Kev also sanded, epxoyed and painted around the clutch master cylinder in the engine bay. There was some surface rust appearing due to it being exposed to the elements for so long. It’s noticeable that’s it’s been painted but much better than having rust showing! Still a few areas like this to clean up in future. We also removed the fuel tank today. This was necessary to resolve some more of the bodges done. It allows access to install the OEM fuel lines and replace a damaged fuel pump wiring loom. It’s not possible to do the loom properly with the tank in. Now waiting on a fuel return line from Toyota as well as all of the brake and fuel pipe clips (which had all been removed from the car for some reason ). After this the tank can go back in. We might also paint some undercoat on the tank shield as it’s in surprisingly good condition. All the driveline bolts still need to be fully torqued but we can’t do that until we get the car back down at the front, but that’s for next weekend. Hopefully. Tight space for a big lad! @evinX will sort the wiring out next weekend.

He's put £600 in the post above (It's a bit difficult to see)

These don’t come up for sale very often! Price based on what I’ve seen them advertised for on FB/eBay minus a fair bit. £150 but open to offers

Prefacelift. Bought in error so asking for what I paid for them £40.

Gearbox is in! We struggled a bit with this today, probably due to being too cautious with the install. Didn’t manage to get too many pics. First issue was the new release bearing had the wrong spring clip supplied. Somehow I had a spare one with the correct spring clip. Second issue was getting the box aligned. Even with the gearbox jack it was very difficult on the sloping driveway. Trolly jack on the crank pulley helped get it all aligned. Once again thanks @evinX for keeping at it! New cross member support rubber is fitted along with the NA cross member. All is now bolted and torqued up ready for the rest of the drivetrain tomorrow. Theres also a whole load of other smaller jobs being done at the same time so I’ll list them out when they’re all complete. Also Good to catch up @Guigsy who dropped by today.

Edited to add: It’s a fair question though mate. From the factory they’re always spot welded in, if it’s got bolts it’s not OEM. As with most JDM cars of the era, the tunnel is part of the crush area. They’re intended to collapse in the event of a serious accident, it’s the floor either side of it that has all the strength (the thick metal where the seat and seat belts bolt in). It works well unless you’re unlucky enough to hit something side on and immovable like a tree. Welding in a new panel would be tricky and very time consuming because one side of the sheet metal will have a hole in due to drilling out the old spot weld. Unless you’re an experienced welder (and I’m not!) it would just be a massive amount of work for no gain.

I don’t know if it’s normal or not, seen it quite a few times before though. The trans tunnel plate is not structural and is only there to hold the shifter, hand brake and dash support in place. It’s probably near as strong as the spot welds (they’re not particularly strong welds from the factory as they can be split with a screwdriver) I did the silver car the same 10 years ago and I’ve not had any issues with it

We managed to get a few hours on the car this afternoon, if all goes well we should hopefully be ready to get the drivetrain in at the weekend. 1) Rear main seal is replaced. We used Kev’s seal tool for this, bought from someone on the forum who makes these. Brilliant bit if kit and worked perfectly! We cleaned up as much oil and gunk as possible from the back of the block before installing. Used ARP flywheel bolts as they’re cheaper than stock and have easier supply. 2) Flywheel installed. It’s a low mileage used one but perfectly serviceable. Will obviously be replaced when the final gearbox goes in 3) Competition stage 2 clutch kit from Keron fitted. I have one of these on my other supra. Feels almost like stock, just can take a bit more torque. Also added a pic of the underside of the trans tunnel as I forgot to take a picture last time

During the week Kev has been working on repairing the spoiler. This was extensively damaged by the dodgy garage and was only just about saveable. As always Kev stuck with it and did a brilliant job fibreglassing the various splits and then filling, sanding and high build primer.

Quick update for today, today I did almost nothing but Kev brought his compressor over to do the under seal and then paint the rest of the trans tunnel. Turned out really good. It was never going to look oem but it’s as close as it’s possible to get especially considering the mess we started with! Kev spent a lot of time making this look as stock as possible and he’s done a brilliant job It’s now fully seam sealed and undercoated and that job is finally done We’re now stalled as I’m waiting on several huge parts orders from Toyota and other places before we can move forward. However next steps are to replace the rear main engine seal (it’s got a tiny leak but might as well do it while the gearbox is out) and install the drivetrain. Hopefully next weekend we can restart. I’m still trying to source abs driveshafts but hopefully have found some with Kerons brother, Kyle. Just waiting on measurements to confirm as they look like yet more big casing ones! I honestly surprised the “rare” big casing ones seem common but no one has the small casing ones

Now it’s time to start putting things into the car rather than taking it apart Not too many updates from today, we’re taking the time to do everything properly so it takes a bit longer than just bolting stuff in. 1) The trans plate is in and bolted to the trans tunnel. Mastic is also completed. Rest of the paint and undercoat will be sprayed on tomorrow by Kev. Such a relief to see that bodge gone! 2) Auto pedals are removed and replaced with the manual ones. The divs that botched the car put the throttle cable bracket on upside down. Always wondered why it didn’t work I’ve still got to finish up the clutch pedal but ran out of time The accelerator pedal I put in is labelled No7, which is manual, however the car had a No5 pedal in it. Anyone know what that was from? 3) Snipped off old clutch line is removed and replaced with a newish one. Clutch mater is also in

Thanks Burna, appreciated

On the road you wouldn’t notice any difference at all, they’re just for show. Strut and chassis support bars make minor differences even in race prepared cars. If you’re racing them suspension setup, appropriately spec’s ARB’s, clutch LSD’s, stronger braking systems and most importantly weight loss is where all the gains are made. However a quick race car does absolutely not equal a good road car.

Can I just pay at the gate to attend for Saturday afternoon? I’ll be in the family wagon so just want to put it in general parking if there is such a thing.

Gotcha, those are a different size too. I’m pretty sure the 6spd flywheel bolts are specific to just the dual mass flywheel. In the mean time it looks like Kev has sourced some bolts that are the same depth and thread pitch