Homer

@evinX? Would be nice to have an NA aero at the NEC and your car is mint

Nice one guys & girls! I never got time today to travel to the show

They're just a parts supply place and all parts are OEM, they don't make anything themselves. I don't know why they have re-bagged some of them items. Example, I ordered x4 of one part, 3 came in a single Toyota bag, the 4th in a different bag. Maybe they are re-bagged so they send the exact number ordered. Delivery is a lot slower than Toyota as they order parts, get them shipped to their warehouse in Japan then send to the UK. Many of their parts get sent from somewhere in the gulf region (Which seems to have much better stock than Japan) so it's about a 6 week turnaround. Plus side is that some items can be less than half the price than buying from Toyota in the UK. The items above were £380 from Toyota UK, I only paid £202 from Amayama.

Mass parts order no2 arrived from Amayama. All the clips for the oem fuel and brake lines and a few other bits. Just waiting on our useless local Toyota garage to process the next batch… It would almost be quicker ordering direct from Japan.

Those came out well

How are you getting on with the Deox stuff? @evinX provided me with some of this. I’m using the Deox Gel first to remove the bulk of rust, it’s a slow process but works amazingly well. He gave me a bottle of something else to use afterwards but I don’t recall the name.

Does anyone have one of these for sale?

Last update for a few weeks. Waiting on parts now. 1) Got the spigot off this morning after soaking it several times with PB Blaster. Thanks @Mike2JZ for pointing out that we missed removing the tab below the pulley. As it turns out the problem was with the bolts we were using, Kev found some HSS ones and the spigot came off. It was stuck on the very tightly and had some surface rust (now cleaned up). 2) We can’t refit anymore parts as I need a new timing cover (now sourced). 3) Checking pulleys: Kev checked the tensioner pulley and it’s noisy so that needs replacing. While at it I’ve ordered a replacement hydraulic dampener. Kev also found the aux belt tensioner pulley was heavily pitted and the bearing is noisy on that too. The tensioner works fine so I’ve ordered a replacement pulley and bearing. 4) Installed a new oil filter and filled the engine with oil. 5) Kev has gone through all the light looms and identified what is missing and what needs replacing. He’s repaired a couple of them and a couple will need new sockets. Thats all we can do now until the next batch of parts start arriving (Over 200 items!). In the meantime I’ll be getting on with all the smaller jobs, mainly finishing the interior, replacing engine hoses/clips, water lines and general tidying up. SST in use, awesome bit of kit. This sounded like a bag of spanners:

Turns out it wasn't this tab stopping it, we didn't get far enough for it to hit it. The bolts we were using on the puller weren't strong enough. Swapped for some HSS ones and it slowly came off

@Mike2JZ Bloody hell, missed that on the guides. Thanks Mike

We can’t seem to get the spigot to release. It shifted about 0.5mm but now won’t move anymore, instead tightening the removal tool just bends the bolts that go into the spigot. Any tips? Is heat okay to use since the whole point of this is the replace the front main seal?

2 steps forwards, one back 1) We decided it would be wise to change the timing belt and front main seal as a precaution (timing belt was always on the list). All was going well until the crank pulley which was stuck fast. After a lot of persuading that came off but now we’re stuck in getting the spigot off. Going to try again tomorrow after a bit of rest. 2) The bad news: the radiator (large one) is completely corroded and needs replacing. Kev kindly donated his spare one which is in very good condition, however it’s the thinner one so the shroud doesn’t fit. 3) Bad news part 2. In the last update we found the water lines to the heater matrix were leaking. Started taking them off and they’re all brittle and need replacing. I’ll order new rubber lines or use gates lines, but I need to restore the hard lines as they’re very expensive to replace with new. Some of them are a bit crushed, dodgy garage strikes again. 4) Bad news part 3. The lower timing belt cover has somehow bulged and has been rubbing on the back of the crank pulley. It’s almost melted in half. Need to buy a new one. 5) Bought an oem passenger seat from a local supra owner (not on the forum), picked it up today and fitted it. It’s got the wrong seatbelt buckle so will probably change that when I put new seatbelts in. 6) While the pulleys are off they’re being cleaned up and repainted. This is the general approach as we work on the car. 7) Kev replaced one of the temp sensor plugs as he noticed it was missing and the wire was just pushed into the socket yesterday, he just happened to have a new one spare Big tools time. Kev has an OEM SST tool for the crank pulley. Expensive tool but made this much easier: Melted timing cover: At this point we got stuck: Not reusable!: Idle control and egr vacuum pipe need to be saved, rubber parts will be replaced. The pipe is over £100 alone new!! Contemplating what we started : Interior is almost complete at least:

I’m not sure if you got this sorted out, but for reference you can use the following for larger Euro batteries: Battery terminal (positive) UK spec: 90982-05037 Positive terminal cover (UK spec): 82821-50050 Battery clamp (UK spec): 74404-14320 Note on the battery clamp, the part number you listed is the jspec only one so it’s possibly for the smaller battery. Btw, I accidentally ordered two new battery clamps for my build so let me know if still need one.

After a frustrating couple of days finally some progress 1) Front coilovers have been changed. Had to cut the other drop link off and found some of the bolts on the arms and coilover bolts had been massively overtightened and not greased. Very time consuming to get them off. 2) Suspension bolts are re-torqued 3) Replaced both ARB drop links with new ones 4) Front discs and callipers are in along with new Goodridge lines 5) Interior loom wiring has been tidied up and dash panels are refitted. Someone cut up the facelift clock , but I’ll probably put an AFR gauge in eventually. 6) Door cards are fitted properly. 7) Kev pressure tested the coolant system and good job he did! We have two leaks, both quite bad. Luckily Kev has spare parts for both so we’ll fix those tomorrow. 8 ) Found some rear speaker covers a facelift ashtray, more boot plastics, speaker pods and much more in parts boxes. 9) Found the important rear brake/fuel line cover! Turns out I already had one Just need the top part now which I’ve ordered from Toyota. Pressure test video, hopefully this inserts!

Brilliant, thanks Keith. Please let me know if you find it I can’t find one anywhere and they’re long out of production.

Just a quick post to demonstrate why this is taking so long. We have to check literally everything. The car had some aftermarket wiring for the positive battery terminal. Decided to pull out the line to the starter to check it and found this. The oem line had been cut half way along and just taped to a poor quality aftermarket wire. No bolts, solder or anything, just electrical tape. Wire removed, you can see where the join is: Hiding this: Years ago I bought a spare oem one from Keron just in case I needed it. Now installed (minus a battery terminal!)

Personally I prefer the oem tach to the Trd. The authentic ones aren’t very useful in a daily driver and let’s face it, few take their engine over 7.2k anyway meaning most of the tach is useless. Are you going to recalibrate it to make it accurate? The oem ones are WAY off. When Ryan was mapping my old car the tach was reading 7.3k rpm but it was only 6.7k from the Ecu .

Awesome to hear that first start, you won’t tire of that single turbo idle sound It takes me back to way back when I did mine. You’re on the last 5% of getting it finished and driving

Thanks for the response. That pretty much sums up our thoughts on it. We did start trying that but I’ll give it another go It was just weird, I’ve removed that bolt a dozen times before on other supras and never had it do this

Bit of a frustrating day today. Ran into a problem changing the fronts shocks of all things… We can’t seem the get the replacement shocks in. The arm is all the way down and the ARB is disconnected (had to cut the drop links off). So we thought, undo the long bolt that connects the upper arm to the chassis, except it won’t undo and clicks like you’re trying tighten it with a torque wrench. We’re wondering if the bolt is snapped in the middle. If anyone has any ideas any help would be appreciated. I’ve added a picture of the bolts, screws, clips that I’m using for the interior and engine fittings. These are considerably cheaper than Toyota and work just the same. Each box is between £8-14. Other than that we did get one of the front brakes on with new goodridge lines. Also started reinstalling the interior. Most is in that I can do for now. Realised the centre seat belt buckles are missing along with some of the seatbelt bolts, I’ll get some new ones from Toyota. Fuel tank side of the fuel lines are buttoned up, not sure what to do with the breather line. The entire charcoal system has been removed and I don’t want to have to spend £100’s to put all the lines back in. Wonder if I can cap it off? Also drained the engine oil, it was almost like new so that’s a good sign. No fuel smell and no sign of any shiny things or gunk.

So short update today. Kev came over as always and we got the rear brakes installed. We ran into a bit of a snag with the rear lines as they’re rusted solid. I’m going to need to put in some new lines tomorrow. New handbrake shoes and internals have been fitted as the old shoes were quite worn. I’m leaving the used discs and pads on for now, there’s plenty of life left in them. However they will be replaced once the car is resprayed. We also got the car repositioned and have the front raised back up to do the front brakes, front coil overs, clutch fluid bleed, replace engine oil and finish the fuel lines tomorrow. Also we hope to install the exhaust but it looks like the flange is not aligning to the down pipe… may need some fabrication done. If all goes well we aim to try and start the car for the first time in 5 years.

Planners… don’t get me started on them It took a kick in the backside from @evinX to get me restarted on this, hopefully this thread will give some motivation. A lot will be happening this weekend

Hey Steve! Long time mate. I always wondered if you still have your car, that’s great to hear Hope you’re keeping well

Does it do the ‘click’ every time you try to turn the starter over or just click once and then is dead until you power off? If it goes dead after one attempt it means you have a current but inadequate amps to engage the starter. I might well be spelling out the obvious here so apologies in advance. It sounds like you’ve checked through all the positive side of things so grounding would be next to check. Have you gone through all the oem ground points and ensured they’re all installed and have a good connection (metal to metal)? There’s a lot of hidden ones so it’s worth doing a full check.

That is one of the question marks at the moment (as well as ABS). I don't want the stock traction control to work so will disable it if possible. ABS is needed so if it plays up I'll need to change to a UK ABS unit and make twin lines to the rear brakes. Edited to add: When we did the fault check on the car years ago it passed the ABS check, no errors or warning lights. So I'm hoping it will work. Time will tell!