Homer

Thanks @Peter P, I will take a look I wasn’t aware this was an option so appreciate your input. I don’t know the name of the aftermarket ones as they were provided by Kev, however he’s had the same in his car for a while and they seem pretty good so far. One thing I didn’t like was that the oem bolt location wasn’t able to be used so unless that can be solved I’ll be going back to the tired oem ones and get them refurbed as you suggest. Unfortunately new belts and buckles are discontinued from Toyota so aftermarket or repair are the only options now.

No, it does not prime the system when the ignition is turned on. It runs crank enrichment when you first turn the car over which dumps extra fuel to get the engine started. You won't get any signal with just the key on because the ECU won't send the 'on' signal to the pump until it is cranking. Great that you have an oscilloscope, the FPC wire should be sending a modulated 0v-5v signal to the FP ecu while it's cranking and running. However, I'd first check the pump operation is good. Bridge B+ and FP n the diagnostic port and make sure your pump is running consistently. This will also confirm that the EFI relay is sending a signal to the pump ecu.

I have a UK engine fitted to a Facelift (series 2) shell. The stock boost gauge is going directly to maximum as soon as the ignition is switched on (Engine not running). The engine runs fine and I’ve traced the wiring back to the engine loom and no breaks were found. I’ve also spoken to Keron who said he’s done this type of install before and it worked fine (not specifically an EUR spec engine). Does anyone have any insights as to what could be the problem? I’m thinking this might be some specific to the UK engine…

Im fairly certain it works like this: The FPC wire (pin 22, block e10 on the Ecu) sends the ‘on’ signal to the FP Ecu. The engine Ecu also needs a signal back from the relay (DI, pin 21, block e10 on the Ecu) otherwise it will stop sending the on signal. DI is basically reporting the FP ECU is working.

So not too much to update, just a lot of very small jobs completed. 1) Rear lights are rewired and now fully work. 2) fuel pump cover is on, boot foam is in and started fitting the rear plastics 3) Tried to install some new front seatbelts but ran into a problem. They’re aftermarket and don’t quite fit right. Will try again next weekend, otherwise will just have to use the slightly tired ones that came with the car. 4) all dash wiring is tidied up and dash panels are fully fitted. Little things like fitting the ashtray light bulb are also done. 5) Fuel pump Ecu wiring tidied up and Ecu fitted to the oem point. Got dozens more jobs like this to finish so will get on with them in the week. One thing I’m struggling to find is the seatbelt plugs that go in the middle of the rear seats. If anyone has these please let me know

Big update today - it’s now running properly As always massive thanks to @evinXfor sticking with it even when things don’t go to plan and it gets frustrating! Also really appreciate @keron spending so much of his time on the phone today helping us go through potential issues. The man is a legend and we would have struggled without his extensive knowledge - Issue with fuel pump Ecu is fixed - Issue with overfueling is fixed There were numerous fixes done and probably a combination of them resolved the fuel pump issue. Essentially it’s now returned to oem and operates in a normal manner (no dangerous overrides!) We also found an ancient speedo converter hidden away that seems to have been causing the overfuel. Kev removed it, patched the wires and right away the car ran perfect. Keron mentioned he’s encountered this issue before when old speed converters develop faults. One additional thing that threw us was the car was short of fuel in the tank I put 2 gallons in thinking it was enough but after another gallon it no longer cuts after 10 seconds. Again thanks Keron for pointing out an obvious oversight! Tomorrow it’s time to tidy up all the wiring and finally put the rest of the car together. Ancient speedo converter: Couple of video shorts, there’s just a first decat pipe and no exhaust so it’s a bit loud.

For reference, there is a complete list of VVTi pin outs for the Ecu and body looms available here: http://wilbo666.pbworks.com/w/page/57949268/2JZ-GTE VVTi JZA80 Supra Engine Wiring#JZA80ToyotaSupra2JZGTEVVTi9098011555EngineLoomtoBodyLoomPlugOrangeBG1

Possibly sourced already. Rocking horse poo found in record time

Manual preferred but auto will work too. This is just for a one time test to confirm my current Ecu is not faulty, so if anyone is kind enough to lend me one please let me know

Possibly found an explanation for the signal so this is just for future reference and note to self: Engine ECU FPC & DI Pin Operation The engine ECU outputs a 0V to 5V Pulse Width Modulated (PWM) signal on the FPC pin which is connected to the Fuel Pump Control ECU to control the speed of the fuel pump. The Fuel Pump Control ECU also has an output to the engine ECU that indicates that the Fuel Pump Control ECU is healthy. The output from the Fuel Pump Control ECU connects to the engine ECU pin labelled DI. The Fuel Pump Control ECU connects the engine ECU DI pin to battery voltage when the Fuel Pump Control ECU is healthy. It is worth noting that at least on some engine ECUs that if the engine ECU DI pin is not connected to battery voltage then the engine ECU will stop the PWM output on the engine ECU FPC pin which will then signal to the Fuel Pump Control ECU to turn the fuel pump off.

Sorry for not being clear. As Steve mentioned before the FPC and DI are sending ‘a’ signal to the fuel pump ECU, however the fuel pump Ecu is not turning the pump on. At first this was expected to be a faulty FP Ecu, but this has now been ruled out. Does anyone know if FPC and DI are constant voltage feed (or even if they are feed or return signals) from the ECU or is it a modulation signal? These are pins 21 and 22 on the E10 block connector. Steve rigged up a bypass that’s uses FPC as a trigger but it’s inconsistent (sometimes pump on, sometimes off). Example: Ecu is reset. Battery is reconnected, pump is off. Turn key to ‘2’ pump is on. Fire engine and it runs. Turn key to off and remove key and the pump is still on! Disconnect battery, reset Ecu, next time the battery is reconnected the pump is on right away even with no key in the ignition.

So Kev and I started on the checks again today. There are two issues, both of which were present last time we started the car 7 or so years ago. 1) The car is overfueling. At first a poor maf sensor, complete lack of IC piping and numerous vacuum leaks was suspected as the cause. However all that has been replaced/fixed and it’s still the same. The plugs we just put in all show the signs of fouling starting and it’s the same amount on all plugs; ruling out stuck injector(s). 2) Fuel pump ECU is not working. FP ECU has been replaced and pump and power wiring has been tested and working (hence being able to start it), but with the fuel Ecu in it won’t turn the pump on. It’s not as simple as doing the 12v mod as the signal to turn on isn’t there at all. Thread up in tech about it here: http://mkivsupra.net/vbb/showthread.php?298998-Fuel-Pump-issue&p=3762703#post3762703

Dragging this topic back out of the archive. Since Steve posted this update I’ve tried 3 different Fuel Pump ECU’s and all have the same result. Steve did create a bypass for testing but it resulted in the pump being on even with the key our of the ignition. So, we know the pump works, we know at least the power wires to the pump are good, but the pump Ecu is not getting an ‘on’ signal from either the Ecu or there’s a break somewhere else. Any ideas folks?

Got her running today, but the old issue is still there… Work completed today: 1) Replaced the cracked water hose at the back of the block (very common issue) and repaired/reinstalled the rest of the lines to the heater matrix 2) ECV line has been cleaned of rust with detox gel and then painted. It’s now reinstalled. 3) Replaced the upper rad pipe with a new one. 4) Fitted new battery terminal, new battery, battery tray and new battery clamps. 5) Put approx 2 gallons of E5 in the car (turns out this might not be enough!) 6) Fitted new spark plugs 7) We couldn't get the FMIC to work with the IC pipes I have so we put a stock side mount in for now. Will sort these out at a later date. 8. Tested the electrics in the car. Most things appear to working, just some weirdness with the rear lights so we’ll go through that tomorrow. 9) Filled the clutch master and bled the clutch line. 10) 1st problem: the fuel pump is running without even the key in the ignition There is definitely something wrong with the pump wiring so we’ll look at that tomorrow! 11) Test started the engine. It’s running but is overfueling. This is the same issue I had years ago. We will go through the recommended steps tomorrow to check the temp sensor signal, crank fuel enrichment isn’t triggering, there’s enough fuel in the tank, etc, etc. We did find one line I’d failed to cap off (pressure line to charcoal canister which was causing it to stall) but this didn’t stop the overfuel. Not many pics today as there wasn’t much to see. Side mount in: Pretty much complete here now: Power!

@evinX and I ended up going to see Keron (Extreme Performance) today to get parts and have a 4 hour long chat with the man Got some really great advice that helped make sure we’re on the right path with the car. He’s confident the ABS will work and our fuel pump issue is caused most likely by a broken wire from the old Clifford alarm. Basically everything should work if we’ve done it right. Massive thanks to him for his time and extremely valuable help! I also spent rather a lot of money on some new parts, some of which I don’t need soon but I didn’t realise they’re discontinued and Keron has most of the last stock. @Big Supes Keron gave some more insights to the EGR system and pointed out some issues the US forums didn’t discuss. Primarily ‘pollution’ of the breather system and cam area (most UK engines he’s seen have heavy carbon deposits that none of the non-egr cars ever get). He highly recommended I get rid of it so that’s what I’ll be doing at a later stage. Tomorrow is hopefully startup day. Some items here are potentially running out of new stock: E.g hood latch and bumper supports. Possibly one of the last new rear crash bars. Not a cheap item but didn’t want to miss out:

So Toyota Northampton turned out it be absolutely hopeless. Despite many reminders they still haven’t ordered my parts after over a month!! I’m going to have to find another dealership locally. This means we will have to do some some temporary fixes to get the car running at the weekend. Started on a few of the pre-start checks today. Looks like these plugs are not reusable then!

Stunning. Great choice on the black RMM lip, that really works

That’s a lovely example and I’m sure it was previously owned by someone from the club. Congratulations on the win and enjoy it

This might be one for the tech section but my understanding is egr and the ‘scoop’ cooler serve different purposes. The scoop cooler was added to EUR cars to pass the more severe type approval regs. Ie higher sustained speeds, eg Germany. JPN cars were limited to 112mph but EUR were 155mph and therefore tougher type tests. That’s where the scoop came in, to keep cyl 5 & 6 cooler during long high speed runs. In my situation this really isn’t applicable as I’m not likely to go above 100mph (younger me would laugh at that!). Besides, the hood scoop on my car is not functional so it doesn’t work anyway. Now EGR is a bit different and unless all the reading I’ve done on this is incorrect we have a different understanding From what I’ve read here and on other sites is the EGR is an emission requirement but interestingly it has a side effect - it LOWERS the EGT’s as some of the heat is bled off to the intake. There was a huge discussion on Supraforums years ago about it. One of the big companies back then did some testing with it kept and removed and found that EGT’s were significantly lower on 5 & 6 with it kept in place.

Thanks mate, that would be great. I'll keep searching in the meantime as they're not exactly common!

Wow, is that gunk from the coolant lines coming out or just froth (not sure how that will translate)? Either way this will be first on the list for next weekend

Thanks for the response Peter. It’s very good point and it was my first thought. I’m not at all ruling it out but there’s two factors that make me think it’s not oil contamination at the moment: 1) This buildup is ONLY on aluminium parts. The rubber lines are completely clear and normal. Additionally it doesn’t feel or smell like the milky water/oil mix you get. 2) The drained oil was in very good condition, absolutely no sign of water ingress. Kev and I were thinking it might be a reaction of the wrong coolant on the Alu parts, possibly coupled with being stood for so long. Either way we are thinking about flushing out the coolant system, using the hosepipe method

Does anyone have one of these or know where an aftermarket one can be found? If not a picture of a removed one would help me fabricate a replacement

Back at it again after a break in Spain Had a really good day on the car and the end of this stage is nearly in sight! As always thanks @evinX for the help. Nearly there! 1) Timing belt is on. We had a bit of trouble getting the match marks lined up but we will check it when the engine is running. 2) Timing belt covers, Tensioner pulley, hydraulic dampener, belt tensioner, crankshaft pulley and auxiliary belt are replaced with new items. Other removable pulleys have been cleaned of rust and repainted. 3) Decided to paint the vacuum hard pipe lines as to be honest we couldn’t get the two rear ones off. This was soaked with Hydrate 80 first to dissolve the rust then rattle can painted. I do have a mint replacement but for now this will do. Also replaced all of the vacuum lines with Gates ones and put new spring clamps on. 4) we had to rig up temporary lines to the heater matrix while I wait on OEM ones from Toyota (Blue silicon lines in the pics). This is just for getting the car started and moving. 5) Spare rad from Kev is fitted along with the shroud. There’s a gap around the side but that’s fine for now. A big rad will go in at a later stage. We had to leave the AC electric fan off because there’s no mount point for it on the NA rad. 6) Decided to change the thermostat, which turned out to be worth it since the old one was full of gunk. What a pain that was, thanks to Kev for sticking at it!! 7) Airbox is refitted 8. Started on the IC pipes. I’m taking a different route to normal on these and using as much stock lines as possible with an FMIC (less heat soak and less likely to leak). It’s slightly more tricky but I think we can make this work with a mix of cut stock pipes and typical alu pipes from an aftermarket IC. 9) As always parts are being taken off and repainted as I’m working through things. The rusty bits will all eventually be gone. 10) Removed the UK turbo cooler as it’s not functional and just gets in the way Next step is hope that Toyota can deliver the needed bits for next weekend. If all goes well we can try and get the engine running again. Belt on. Screwdriver in no1 piston is to confirm TDC: SST tool and a large torque wrench for the crankshaft bolt. These are Kevs and make this job so easy Wierd gunk that’s coating much of the water lines. Not sure what this is but we’re clearing it out as we go through things. Bit concerned about what’s in the block. Stock line to the intake, aftermarket to the FMIC. Should hopefully work with a bit of measuring and cutting: Nearly there:

Good progress mate, coming together nicely! Those pistons look pretty crusty, must make sure I check the mine when it comes to the restoration stage. We just removed all the old brackets and fitted the replacement units, with new washers and nuts both sides to keep it waster tight. @evinXis that right?