Homer
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Everything posted by Homer
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Did this happen as soon as you started it or after reaching a certain speed? Is the engine check light lit up at all?
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Superb! Thanks very much Kev that answers all the questions I had The old saying is true, a picture can say a thousand words Your engine bay is incredibly clean!
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Whoops, forgot to join the group yesterday!
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Would anyone be able to PM me these for a pre facelift auto TT? For some reason my EPC doesn't like my VIN (frame number AJPZZ not recognised). Aero/non-aero isn't important
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I'll ask one of my Belgian team tomorrow what the rules are over there. I seem to remember them having some crazy rules on car imports. In the mean time, Marco can probably help?
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Thanks guys That would be really helpful if you take a couple of pics Kev, It's not the sort of thing people normally photograph so haven't tracked down any pictures so far
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My mates dad has one of these with a 2.8i V6 ford engine. There seems to be quite a lot of room in the engine bay, but a big heavy 2JZ might not be the best choice...
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Oh, I see that he edited it. Shall I remove the thread to avoid causing such terrible offence to the newbie? Seeing that myself and others have broken the rules of *his* thread it would only be fair... That wouldn't be at all acceptable in a discussion forum after all.
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Eh?
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You are supposed to removed the dash panel to fit a head unit. Normal head units no not fit in the supra dash panel so the facia panels should not be connected. WTF have you done?!!
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IIRC the TTC mod should remove the VSV from the equation. Good point and certainly worth a a try. Edit: too slow!
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All the details of the various wideband to EMB setups have been posted here in the past, but it'll take some time to dig out all the details. For example the LM1 has a linear signal were as the AEM I used had a scaling one. To be honest it sounds like your mate doesn't know what he's doing. Anyone who has the slightest idea of fueling will know that if those AFR's are correct the engine will be busy lunching itself. I'm not convinced providing him with the correct logging will allow him to setup a safe map...
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Sorry for the slip, I'll try and take more care with my wording when replying in future Good result though, can't complain at any team beating the French!
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If the valve is still working it's got to be a problem with the VSV hasn't it?
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They look very nice, but at that price think I'd go for a genuine Recaro rather than an unbranded make
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Have yet to watch the match (have it on Sky+), but superb result for a home nation
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The actuators are notoriously sticky on older cars, but it's rare for one to freeze completely (not sure I've heard of it before). They normally freeze once the car has been running off boost for a while and you suddenly go for WOT. A lift off and re-apply of the gas pedal normally solves it. Is the actuator arm still properly attached?
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Love that car One of the nicest on the forum. No stupid kit, just very tasteful additions
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It sounds very much like the EGCV isn't opening. As Mike says this causes massive overspeed of the 1st turbo. Not good for that turbo.
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You take what as a no? There's no problem with anyone turning up, it's a public car park.
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IIRC the 0-5v output from the LM1 needs to be wired to one of the additonal inputs on the EMB (can't recall right now). That'll allow the afr reading to be logging by the EMB software.
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Bingo You need to be a paid up full member to edit your avatar options and get access to the full forum.
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Very impressive, that must be interesting to drive on the road Did you build this car? Only ask as I'm working on an LS1 install for my Supra...
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I'm trying to identify the correct routing for the main battery connectors. In the first pic below is it correct that the positive terminal wire should connect directly to the fuse box positive supply and also spliced to the starter motor? In the secon pic, is this the correct point to wire the negative battery terminal to the chassis and starter motor (or does it go to the engine itself?) Obviously I'm not going to reuse the wires in the pic!
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Looking at the attached pic, is this leak likely to just be the gasket between the master cylinder and the brake booster? There's a lot of surface rust so not sure if the brake booster itself needs swapping. Thoughts?
