Homer

After checking, it's only parts of the country that have them this May: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/United_Kingdom_local_elections,_2008

As Wez says, what boost are you seeing? What did you gap the plugs to?

As title. Which party will you voting for? It's an anoynmous poll.

Just thinking about this from another angle.... I'm sure you've not done this recently, but lets say you get it fully warmed up (i.e. seeing lean condition on the AFR gauge) and took it out for a drive, set the BC to off (1 bar) and go for a WOT run in 4th. Do you get a det warning flash up? If it doesn't detect det, what is the afr reading at the max load point (about 5.3krpm) It's slightly risky to try this as it means you're relying on the knock sensors to tell you to back off... Try again at 1.2 and then 1.4 bar provided there are no det warnings. The reason for suggesting this is to ascertain if you're seeing an afr reading that would *certainly* cause det, but no knock is being found by the sensors. Risky approach though!

I can see there are a lot of people replying to this thread so will just add that the exhaust sniffer test did not help (in this case) confirm anything as it wasn't done while it was apparently running lean. It needs to be done under the 'lean' condition to show if there is a leak when its fully up to temp. So in summary, the potential for a coolant leak from the cartridge is still a possibility. Great responses so far, it's certainly getting closer to finding the real issue here.

This is a very good bit of info. If the exhaust test was done while the car was experiencing the lean condition and turned up no coolant it can't be a cartridge or head gasket (since either would result in a positive exhaust gas test). However, the fact that you *are* losing coolant suggests a very small leak somewhere. Are there any signs it's losing fluid from any of the lines (particularly the turbo water lines). IMO this might indicate O2 getting into the exhaust causes the AFR gauge to run lean. To be honest, the amount time the engine has been apparently running lean, I'd have expected it to have shat itself by now. However the recent leakdown test showed pretty much the same as those taken while the car was BPU (They were actually a pecentage better)

Hopefully Darren can confirm this, but from what I understand the car appears to run fine except for the occasional Det warning at VERY high load (it did this occasionally when I had it too). Edit - not that I think Darren has used the car in anger since the problems began. The AFR gauge is the one thats showing the lean condition, whether it's the one in the car or the Ryan's one. Mark also mentioned that he thought one of the "turbo" gaskets is leaking (from a conversation with Darren this afternoon, it appears this is the one between the manifold and turbo). So, we have two possible sources of O2 getting into the exhaust and causing a lean reading on the AFR gauge: - coolant from a cartridge leak - air from a gasket leak One other posibility is a head gasket failure, however this seem unlikely as there is no sign of carbon in the coolant and the leakdown tests showed a healthy engine. As the lean condition appears only once the engine is at full operating temperature this would tie with the two possibilities above (thermal expansion causing either to fail). Thats the situation as I see it now.

Great, thanks guys. In fact the work is already carried out... the problem was that I thought he'd said £200 for both jobs, he said it was £200 for just the ceiling (probably I misheard). Anyway, he's dropping by tomorrow to pick up the cash as I forgot to go to the bank today (he lives up the road); just wanted to make sure I'm not getting ripped off. The plastering took the two guys 3 hours and the window took him 6 hours. They did a very good job too, I cannot fault the finish at all. I think my assumption it was £200 for both jobs was a little unreaslistic! Nice blokes too, but cleared me out of tea bags!

Perhaps some of the tradesmen here can advise if these prices are about right £200 to plaster a ceiling and about 6in down each wall (16ftx9ft) £195 to remove a window (it's on the inside of my house after building an extension), Remove the soilder brinks above, fit a concrete lintle and re-plaster This is from a good quality builder so I'm not expecting these to be cheap, but are they 'reasonable'?

Do you happen to know which part of the diff failed? Was it the crown wheel or the diff itself? There are several different crown wheels available, some which appear to be much stronger than others.

Thanks for the advice guys I had a really good search this evening for similar cars and found only two that were similar, both were priced below £1500 so it seems this is a good offer. I'll be accepting it. Also think I have secured a '98 528i SE Touring manual (new model) for only £1600, less miles than the 518i too! Bonus

The bolt pattern is correct, they will probably rub on the front and are too narrow for the rear. I would not recommend you go with these sizes at all. For reference stock is: F: 8x17 -50 R: 9.5x17 -50

Oh, you don't want to know about that...

I agree, that carpark is a nightmare, especially now with all the work going on. The do luck front on my last supra grounded out everywhere

Isn't the NA diff a bit weak for a motor thats putting out more torque than a BPU supra? I'm concerned that even the LSD TT auto diff isn't going to be strong enough! (edit - this question isn't neccesarily directed at rxV8) What is your axle code on the VIN?

I have been offered £1500 for the car, which is about £50 more than it cost me (got it cheap off my brother in law). I cannot find a replacement which is a PITA, but there are some better models for only a few hundred more. What do you think - accept this offer or not? It seems fair as that was about what the car was worth, but it's going to cost me in the long run...

I hear this is an original Hitler rap: And repost queens, yes I've posted it before!

You need to become a member to post pics. PM me for details.

Yes and your response(s) in the tech section are not helping clarify this. A coilover unit does not mean adjustable suspension. That would be a 'height adjustable coilover'. Please do not muddy the waters here In order to make this clear for current and future views of this thread: ALL supra's have coilover suspension. A few aftermarket suspension kits have adjustable ride height and adjustable damper settings.

The stock supra suspension has coilovers (whatever spec) Coilovers are when you have the spring mounted over the damper in a single unit, there is no other way to explain the stock setup. A non-coil-over suspension would have the spring and damper mounted separately, this is impossible on a supra. With regard to the OP's question, the UK spec has a much higher suspension height than the jspec. It's designed to be softer and more complient (i.e far more travel) than the imports. This is why the car will look like a monster truck if the suspension is still stock UK.

looking forward to the weekend now! I've never been in one without a screamer pipe.

Jakes correct, but if you have a crash you'd only be covered for the 3rd party.

How much difference has the re-route made in terms of noise? Is it significantly quieter on boost? Does it still sound like a jet engine? And finally, have you noiced any performance difference?

Welcome Which part of Sweden are you from? I visit the south (Malmö area) every few months, beautiful country with beautiful women Lovely looking car, but I must ask if the shopping list on the door is your addition? It's not very 'tasteful' IMO

I'm the wrong person to ask about styling I doubt they're + size offset as there are very few cars that use this type of offset, however if they are then there is zero chance of them fitting (it'd put the outer edge nearly 7cm from stock position!).