Homer
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Everything posted by Homer
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No problem Chris: 47715A 47715-24010 9305-9605 PIN, FRONT DISC BRAKE CYLINDER SLIDE 47715B 90109-08214 9305-9605 BOLT (FOR FRONT DISC BRAKE CYLINDER SLIDE) 47713C 90389-08101 9305-9605 COLLAR (FOR FRONT DISC BRAKE CYLINDER) 47775 47775-50010 9305-9605 BOOT, BUSH DUST (FOR FRONT DISC BRAKE) 47769 47769-50010 9305-9605 BUSH, CYLINDER SLIDE NO.1 (FOR FRONT DISC BRAKE) 47779 47769-50020 9305-9605 BUSH, CYLINDER SLIDE NO.2 (FOR FRONT DISC BRAKE)
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There are a few posibilties here.. If you hold it in say 2nd or 3rd gear at 2000rpm and take it up to ~5500rpm, what boost at you seeing through this range? For example, does it start building to 0.5bar at 3800rpm then start dropping down again? Any sign of black smoke from the exhaust? Does it idle okay? Are the plugs fouled? If you can find that out it should help identify the cause. I think I know what this is (EGCV sticking).
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Thats not correct, well unless the stock one is knackered.. The stock valve is there to remove the noise of compressor stall on lift off, the aftermarket ones simply route the compressed air to atmosphere rather than back into the intake. Some people (or most it seems!) like the sound these Vent-to-atmosphere ones makes, but not all. They have no performance benefit
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It looks like the rad had been replaced and it's missing the fan shroud. The front wings and bonnet also look a slightly different colour to the rest of the car - possible sign it's had some front end damage? I think you did the right thing walking away, if only for the V5 issue
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Here's what EPC says. I'm not sure why there are two part numbers for the pins, hopefully it means something to you. 01 47715C 47715-50010 9305-9605 PIN, CYLINDER SLIDE (REAR) - SUB PIN SIDE 02 47715C 47715-50030 9305-9605 PIN, CYLINDER SLIDE (REAR) - MAIN PIN SIDE 03 47775D 47775-50010 9305-9605 BOOT, BUSH DUST (REAR) 04 47769A 47769-50010 9305-9605 BUSH, CYLINDER SLIDE NO1
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Which year chris? There are several part numbers listed in EPC, seems some changes were made every 12-18 months for the early models
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Thanks rediculous!!!!! ... two wives, who needs that headache!
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There are a sh*t load for much less than that. There's a couple of NA's for sale on PH for less than £2k. TT's for less than £5k. I've just refused an old TT auto fro £3.9k at auction You can get average/sh*tty Supra's for bugger all now if you know where to look. I'd never want to own one though!
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How do you fit Exhaust Gas Bypass Valve actuator?
Homer replied to Jim_1979's topic in mkiv Technical
A nightmare job Are you replacing just the actuator of the valve itself? Remove turbo's and system, remove exhaust to get acess to the bolts. Remove and replace. It's 2nd greatest PITA job to do on a Supra. -
Technical discussions concerning turbo's will always get complicated, simply because it's a complicated There is far more to it than what has already been mentioned but I fully agree with what Nic and Wez have posted. UK and Jspec have roughly the same capabilities in terms of outright power, hybrids allow a little more due to the slightly large size turbine and compressor. Fuelling and additional injection (meths) is the only way to get more power from either jspec or UK turbo's. Either way it's seriously diminishing gains.
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Hi mate, I would take the lot, I ideally need a known workling full jspec setup (Inc the lines from the copper hardpipe to the caliper if you still have them - IIRC they won't be of use when changing to UK calipers). It's mainly the front lines, calipers and brake pads I'm after, but the rest would be really handy as some of the current parts came from a crashed car Let me know... Cheers Darryl EDit - arrghhh b*llocks, too slow That'll teach me for taking a phone call mid-reply!
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No, just the plastic bit. I had to salvage the originals.
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Lol, push bikes! I thought you meant a motorbike. Unfortunatly I very much doubt any insurance will cover it apart from your own
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I was just wondering the same Jamie. There's only two supras I know using that turbo, DJ Craigs old one and Captiain Chaos (or was it Cleland?) (both drag cars) IIRC it's a copy of an old truck turbo so totally unsuitable for road use.
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Crikey, they're going to be in a LOT of trouble! Presumably their dad had insurance on the bike so any damage should be covered by them. Wonder if the dad gave them permission to ride it? If not they'll be looking at a theft charge
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Hi Kev, I have a brand new spare one but went and sent it with most of my other parts to storage in Gloucester I can get you the part number. Which sensor is it, the temp sensor for the ECU (two wires) or the one for the temp gauge (single wire)? I think they're each about £7!! They do not come with any wiring
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Thanks mate, some other useful pics in that thread too
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Thanks Scott, if it's the sump that will explain a few things
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I have to be missing something obvious here, but what do the two points indicated below attach to? They screw into something, but it's not clear what!
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Sorry missed that bit. To get it to hook up you absolutely need to get the tyres heated with a good burnout. It made 0.5s difference to the 60ft on my last car and that was using F1's (which are useless for drag racing). Line lock isn't needed at all to get a good burnout, but it'll save the discs getting overheated.
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Did you get a good burnout beforehand? What tyres and pressures were you using? If it was cold/wet you're going to be really disadvantaged anyway, there's only so much you can do in poor conditions...
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Really nice work We NEED a video of this ASAP!
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Respectable time, but the 60 ft isn't great (about the same as a BPU supra on normal road tyres). On the plus side it shows how much potential it has if you can get it to hook up!
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Oh, you might be right. Sometimes the full show is on ITV4 and the ITV1 show just shows the main fight. They don't always show the main fight on the ITV4 show starts 9.15 ITV1
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Any predictions on the round Khan is going to end it? I'm going for round 5 or 6
