Homer

Thanks mate. That confirms I have it wired up correctly. I’m stumped.

Last items before the MOT next weekend!!! Help needed please on the horn: if any of you facelift owners have any idea how the horn connector in the wheel looks please let me know! The horn is still on all the time and I think it might be down to a compatibility issue. The facelift wiring is slightly different to pre facelift. I don’t have a facelift connector so I’m not sure if both pins are supposed to be used somehow. Prefacelift definitely only requires the right one but clearly this isn’t working for me. Items completed today: 1) The issue with the windscreen washer turned out to be a faulty motor. Not uncommon. Luckily @evinX had a new non oem spare so he plumbed that in. Front and rear washers are now working! 2) I managed to find some lower front arch liners for only £45 from @Chingy. Bargain as these are £285 new. Kev fitted these today and put in a lot of new clips and bolts for the rest of the arch liners. Most were missing as usual! We’ve left the front undertray off as I need to order a new front mount bar. The one I had is missing the square headed bolts so isn’t reusable. And that’s it. After 1 year and 5 months of work Kev and I think we have done everything to make this supra roadworthy again! Between us we’ve put in hundreds of hours of work. Thanks @evinX we did it (hopefully)!! UK wheel, only used right pin: 3 spoke wheel (celica): New washer motor: Arch liners in:

Also when I got the car it had a UK steering wheel (pic below). The white plug only uses the right pin on the facelift steering column, the left one is unused). Does anyone know if the left pin is used for the horn mechanism on the facelift? Maybe the issue is that this isn’t reaching anything. The wiring is definitely different on facelift as there are different plugs used on the column to connect the horn wire

I've got an issue where the horn is on all the time. So far we've replaced the horns, tried a different steering wheel, changed the fuse, relay and checked the wiring for breaks. No issues found. I've been through the wiring diagrams for the horn circuit and it all seems to check out, all connectors are plugged in. When the small wiring connector on the steering wheel is disconnected the horn does not go off. With it plugged in the horn is on all the time regardless of whether the horn wire to the wheel is plugged in or not. Does anyone know what could be the cause? Am I connecting the horn wire to the correct terminal on the clock spring? Also is the horn breaking the circuit when pressed or completing it? It seems to be breaking the circuit since it pushed the metal connectors apart.

I’d like to find one too. I’ve been searching for years. The only ones that come up are crazy money on eBay. I think I’m going to end up just sticking a gauge in there just to fill the hole lol

Sourced already, thanks @evinX I totally don’t recall you saying you had one lol

Does anyone have a spare or know of an alternative replacement? Toyota want a lot for this and I have an MOT looming so time is short!

The manual tunnel section is only available from Toyota, it’s not expensive. Slave cylinders are fairly cheap too. You’ll need the gearbox mount too and a lot of other little bits. I buy from amayama which supplies oem parts direct from Japan. It’s much cheaper than a uk dealer but has longer lead times.

Do you have a w58 5spd transmission or something else? The w58's are barely any good for 300bhp. Also, so you already have an LSD diff?

Bit of a delay as both @evinX and I were ill last weekend, back on it today (and a few days in between). There are now only two issues we haven’t resolved (if anyone has ideas on these please reply!). Either way I’m hoping to get it in for an MOT next weekend. 1) The horn is still on all the time. First we suspected a faulty relay as several relays were already bad in the car.@Swampy442 was kind enough to send one for free but this didn’t fix it. I changed the steering wheel and even tried it with no wheel and it still didn’t solve it. This means there is likely a wiring between the steering column and the engine bay fuse box. It must be grounding somewhere… 2) The windscreen washer isn’t working (motor isn’t turning on). We discovered this late in the day so I’ll do some testing on it before replacing parts. The rest of these items are now done 1) Alternator is now changed over to one that SupraTronix supplies. It worked perfect, battery is now charging! 2) All windscreen wipers were rusty so have been sanded, primed, sprayed and fitted. While doing this I also cleaned and painted a few other rusty bits… brake booster line, throttle cable support and a few small items. Still lots more parts need removing, cleaning and paint but that will come… 3) Front plastic radiator ducting is fitted back in. I’m going to redo the bonnet latch part after the MOT. 4) A LOT of missing bolts have been fitted all around the front of the car. Why so many were missing I have no idea, the entire front end was loose. There were only two bolts holding the metal rad support in… 5) All front lights and plugged in with nearly all new connectors. Fully bolted in along with the front bumper 6) Removed the upper rad pipe and cleaned up the aluminium, it was leaking and has signs of corrosion. This explains why it was leaking even with a brand new rad hose. I’ve not seen this before so may need to replace the neck. 7) number plates finally fitted. It was a shame to have to fit these as I’m switching over to a private one as soon as the mot is done. Horn still goes off with it disconnected: New alternator now providing a healthy voltage: Corroded water neck, no wonder it was leaking. We’ve used some ptfe tape to try and seal it for now. It seems okay so far but this needs to be addressed: Oem rad duct installed with new clips. also lots of new bolts in the rad supports: Plates on and some more tidy up done. Still lots more parts to do: New tyres, mentioned it before but it’s a big step for me to have proper rubber on the car! Final lights check, all good!

Legend, thanks Craig!!

It’s this one, I can’t seem to find any generic replacements for it. 3 pins:

Bit of a long shot but does anyone have one of these lying around? It’s kind of urgent.

Thanks @Hamilton that shows it perfectly! Much appreciated, I’ve got some work to do on re-routing this. Also looks like I’ve got to source a few oem clips.

A little help please folks…. Does anyone know how the bonnet latch cable is supposed to route past the chassis leg? It came like it is in the picture but I’m certain it’s wrong. Should it go through the white grommet, or somewhere else? I can’t get the cable splitter to mount to the upper plastic radiator ducting with it like this. In the mean time I’ve been getting on with a few small jobs but I’ll update those tomorrow. Still can’t get the horn to work even with replacement horns. It’s on all the time. Also fitted the oem wheels with a set of new Michelin Pilot Sport 4’s.

Correct Darren, it’s the wrong wheel. It came with the UK spec one when I got the car (a UK spec was the donor for the drivetrain). I’ve never been a fan of them. I have a very good condition 3 spoke from a Celica which I’ll put in for now. It’s very similar to the facelift supra one but at £40 it’s an easy way to get it near correct. I’ll likely change it at some point in the future but getting the car back on the road and painted is the priority right now.

Tyres getting fitted tomorrow to the oem wheels. Tonight I put her on a set of wheels I got from a scrap yard for £200. I’m warming towards these after fitting them! They are insanely heavy though!

That’s how they look in every supra that’s not been fully restored. There’s a few parts that have the same finish and are ALWAYS rusty! Rear suspension plastic supports are another common one. Love the attention to detail on your build!

Quick update from today, just a couple of things left before booking the MOT! 1) Kev finished up the headlights, all working. 2) finished the fog light mod, all working as intended. The fog switch is ugly as hell but it was all I could get my hands on at the time. I’ll change it for for a smaller one in the future 3) We didn’t get time to test the alternator but strongly suspect it to be at fault. It was bought from SRD 9 years ago but was never really used. I’ve messaged Lee at for a replacement at my own cost but he was kind enough to suggest I send it back for an inspection and repair. That’s some great customer service! In the mean time of anyone has a spare one I could buy or borrow for the mot that would be very much appreciated. 4) Started cleaning the interior of the car. It’s coming up well although some bits need replacing. Annoyingly there is weld splatter on the inside of the windscreen caused by the monkeys who did the trans tunnel mod. It’s made a bit of a mess of it and damaged the glass. It’s a facelift windscreen so all but impossible to replace with an oem one. 5) SBA tuning stickers are finally removed 6) There’s a bit of an odd noise coming from the engine/exhaust area which we’ve not pinpointed yet. There is a video below (hopefully) which shows it. If anyone has an ideas let me know. It sounds like a coughing sound and is fairly consistent. Working lights. Might not seem like much but this was a mission for Kev! No more dodgy wiring splices and broken connectors. All band new hardware. Fugly fog lamp switch, but it works and will fulfil the mot requirement: Temporary fog lamp solution. I’ll do a proper one in the future: Cleaned up a bit. Ran out of cleaner so it’s not finished yet. Steering wheel will be changed to good condition Celica one shortly. No more SBA stickers!

Back to work today with @evinX and more good progress. Nearly there!! It doesn’t look like much but this took 6 hours.. we’re back at it again tomorrow. 1) Kev soldered in all new headlight bulb holders. This was supposed just be two but he found all the wires were extensively hacked, so decided to hardwire in new wiring with new holders. Lights are tested and all are working now. 2) I got on with the adding a fog light. For now I’m just using one of the reverse lights for this, but I’ll change over to the proper method when I get more time. Wiring is all in but I made a stupid mistake I need to correct tomorrow (terminal the wrong way round, doh!) 3) The boot carpet is now properly fitted and the tonneaux cover installed (like everything it needs a clean). I also installed the missing suspension caps which support the boot plastics. These were sourced for a few quid from a forum member. Also cut a boot floor panel from a bit of leftover plyboard. It’ll do for now. I’m still missing the foam section that goes behind the seat, I’m really struggling to source one so might have to buy a block of foam and make one. 4) Stereo cage is installed and dash wiring tidied up. 5) Passenger side window has never worked, we suspected a broken wire but all seems okay. After some testing we found the motor is starting to engage but then does nothing. It’s got a good 12v feed so I t could be a faulty motor but we need to check further. 6) Kev tried to install a pair of Hella horns I bought (One oem is missing and the other one looks like it’s been at the bottom of the ocean). However they have two terminals and no matter how we tried to wire them the horns were on all the time. The horn mechanism on the steering wheels appears to be working correctly so we’re not sure what the matter is. I’m going to order some single terminal ones and see if that fixes it. 7) The OEM hockey sticks and pods are now fitted properly after the welding work. 8. Fitted a new battery clamp I got from amayama. Headlight work, messy connectors cut too short: Old horn and crusty condenser (AC is a later project, will probably need completely replacing): All working: Stereo cage in and wiring tied up a bit. There’s no speakers in the car so ICE is a later project: New battery strap: Missing rear plastic support installed: Temporary boot floor and rest of the parts fitted: Side pods and hockey sticks fitted:

Had another good day of progress with @evinX Todays main job was to try and resolve the idling issue. As mentioned above we thought we’d found a bad IACV, turns out I wasn’t testing it correctly and it was fine. A relief as they’re very expensive to replace! During this process we found one of the coolant pipes for the iacv was leaking so decided to bypass it. It’s not really needed for British weather. We also cleaned up the surfaces and fitted the missing bolt. Kev also thightened up the throttle cable as it was very slack. After running it up to temperate it finally settled out to an even idle and ran smooth for about 20 minutes. I think it was a completely fouled iacv combined with a small air leak that was the culprit. I took it out on the short private road for a test drive, no issues found, it’s drives great and both turbos spool up well. No smoke either which is a relief! We also got on with a few of the remaining issues for the MOT: 1) Installed all the driving light bulbs and replaced where necessary. We ran into an issue with the facelift lights so will swap from 9006(J?) to 9005 plug for the dipped beam. It makes it easier to find replacement bulbs. This will be completed next time. We have a small issue with the front fogs as the back plates are missing but I think we can make some from a set of prefacelift looms I have left over. 2) It was my birthday last week and Kev’s present was a set of Supratronix mats. They look awesome and finish one of the last bits of the interior. 3) Kev noticed that someone (not me, honest!) had previously fitted the front wiper arms the wrong way round. No wonder they were hitting the bonnet!! Previous garage strikes again… fitted new wiper blades, but decided to keep the arms off to repaint them. 4) Interior dome light sourced and installed 5) We found that the alternator is not charging the battery. The car had a brand new alternator installed 9 years ago but it’s possible it’s packed up after being left idle for so long. We’ll start testing that next weekend but this should be simple enough to fix. 6) Found some facelift wheel centre caps in a spare parts box so fitted those. Plus dozens of other little jobs not worth mentioning. IACV coolant bypass with lines blocked off to avoid corrosion: Supratronix floor mats: Wiper arms on the wrong sides: Testing the lights: Off the driveway for testing driveline and brakes: Facelift centre caps fitted:

Today @evinX and I started looking into why the engine starts to cut out once it’s warmed up a bit. I’ve gone through the vac lines and can’t see any breaks or uncapped lines so next step is the IACV. During removal I found it was only bolted on with one bolt, so someone has been messing with this before. It looks like the bolt has been missing for a very long time as there’s corrosion inside the thread. As expected it was caked with residue and the little one way valve was almost completely gummed up. These are been removed and cleaned. Next is the test the IACV: 1) check the resistance across the 4 signal wires. These were all 21ohms which is normal (10-30 is in the manual) 2) check the IACV operation. This check sends power to each of the control wires to switch the iacv open or closed. No matter how we tried it wouldn’t close. You can hear the motor try to turn each time but it doesn’t move the valve. Either I’m doing this test wrong or this is the cause of the idling issues. I’m going to replace it anyway as they’re quiet cheap (well Chinese version anyway!) Video below showing the check process, is this correct? Also had a visit from Adnan who used to be in the forum years ago. Awesome to catch up after over 10 years. A very dirty one way valve, it also shows where the bolt was missing: Removed and cleaned with carb cleaner: IACV after a partial clean, it was pretty caked up as well: checking the iacv valve (is this the correct way?):

Some great progress today with @evinX. It’s almost ready for the MOT. 1) The issue with the stock boost gauge is possibly fixed. It’s now got a PIM signal from the MAP sensor going to the Series2 dash wiring loom (the UK spec car doesn’t send this to the dash loom as doesn’t have a boost gauge). Kev soldered a bridge wire from the Ecu loom to the dash loom to orange dash connector and now the gauge is reacting to pressure. It seems a bit lower than expected but there’s a thread in the tech section about that… 2) since the fuel pump Ecu is now working normally all the rear interior panels and boot carpet are now back in. 3) Rear seat buckles are installed and rear seats finally fully fitted. 4) Front seats are also finally fitted properly and seat belts are bolted in. 5) Kev donated a new Veilside style gear knob to replace the horrible plastic stock one. It had also gone a bit tacky which was odd, not even sure it’s a supra one. 6) Replaced the aftermarket resistor pack mounting plate with an oem one. Just a cosmetic thing but it looks better I’m the oem place. 7) Kev installed a pair of Supratronix bonnet struts. No more hood stick! These work perfect. 8. I still have an issue with it trying to stall out after it’s warmed up. I’ve checked the IACV resistances and they’re all at 21-22 ohms, which is exactly in the middle of normal. I guess next step it to remove it and check it’s not gummed up. A total pita from what I’ve read! Resistor mount before: After: PIM wiring to make the stock boost gauge work with a UK spec engine: Boot finished (missing some clips for the carpet, I have some somewhere!) Rear seat belts and bench finished. Needs a clean… Bonnet struts installed New gear knob, need to sort out the gator.

So a year later I finally got around to adding in the PIM wire to the dash. It worked, but I'm not sure if this it's reading correct. It seems to read a bit lower than it should. When ignition is keyed on it's reading below the '0' mark. Does anyone know if this is normal (See vid):

After over 3 months the car is finally back from the bodyshop. All the rust repair is finished and I’m very pleased with the quality of work. It was only £2k in the end so considering the time that went in it was surprisingly cheap. I don’t have too many pics to share as most of the work was done on parts that aren’t visible anymore. So now we can start getting it MOT ready. There’s two main issues to solve - why the fuel pump system isn’t turning on and why it’s bogging down when switching over to warm idle. After a huge amount of checks on the loom the fuel pump issue is now fixed. It turned out to be an issue with one of the EFI relays. Even though it was working normally it didn’t seem to trip when keying on. @evinX suggested swapping the two EFI relays over and it started working Next up is to figure out why it bogs down and stalls once it’s warmed up. ICV checks are next on the list. Here’s only some of the metal that was cut out: After pics, not the best but gives an idea: It’s going to be tidied up a little bit and then fully cleaned and undercoated. All interior sections are rust protected. I also finally got a set of rear seat buckles. These were incredibly difficult to find but only ended up costing £20.