Homer

What James mentioned, plus the gear ratio's are better balanced, they are more equally spaced so it's smoother to drive, especially when moving from 4th to 5th.

Either you are wrong or it's been retrofitted, the v161 wasn't made until 97. The v161 equiped cars had the smaller diff casing and a slightly smaller and lower ratio crown wheel, but still an LSD as standard. Only the v160 cars had the big diff casing. The smaller diff is the weaker of the two, though the v161 claims to have a stronger 3rd gear syncro.

The 98 onwards RZ-S definetly had the v161. Not all facelifts had them, there were some from the crossover period (1997) that were facelift bodies but had the non-VVTi, big diff and v160.

You're not the only one! Looked like a fun trip, seems like everyone had a great time

The big hulk of rusty junk fan in front of the radiator that some imports came with. To this day I only saw it on a half dozen Supra's, but have no idea what it's purpose was.

See edit bud, I got the wrong fan. Grr, back here 5 minutes and already getting things wrong!

Big edit, thinking of a a different fan... It's not *needed* but it helps the air con unit. If you still use one on a TT then it's probably best to have it there. It does turn quite a lot of air. The wierd thing is, not all cars I've seen have this, including some (if not all) of the NA's. My car was a TT originally, but it has a big rad and shroud from a TT which has no air con fan... I never managed to figure out why some cars have it and some don't

This works Did the same on mine with a similar tool from B&Q.

All a bit last minute but Ben dropped by this evening to have a look at the caliper. There is nothing really wrong with it... the sliders have some small score marks but nothing major, they are not sticking at all. The piston is also working absolutely fine. It is getting a little hot but after his 30 minute drive here it wasn't anything significant, cool enough to touch after a couple of minutes stopped. Did a bit of a clean up of the sliders as there was way too much copper slip on them, but that was it. It didn't seem to be a claiper issue, so have suggested it might be an air lock in the ABS system. There is also a small leak from the gasket between the pbrake pressure cylinder and brake master which may not be helping. Can't really suggest what else it could be, but at least his headlights are now working

That is very nice indeed, congrats and good luck with the project I have to ask though, why the dinosaur turbo over something more modern?

He secretly loves it. Just don't tell anyone

No worries, speak to you tomorrow if needed. I've got all the tools and parts here to get it fixed up for DB

The village idiot would be more appropriate Ellis

I have a spare set of rear calipers here in Reading you can have. They are in storage but I can get them out of there as it's only 5 minutes away. I can help you change them out on my drive if needed. Postcode RG2 8AR. I'll PM my mobile. Edit, good point Ellis, I assumed by previous posts it was the little ones (edit, oh and he mentioned sliders, so it is them)

Yep. That is all I have to say on the matter

I got a fiancé, it's rather distracting. Hope all is well mate

What you're missing now, Ellis will make up for. I've heard he is quite gentle though.

Another vote here for the rad cap, had one go on mine a long time ago and it was the same symptoms. Is it a stock one? The little plastic seal does have a habit of going brittle and breaking up, should be an easy spot

They need to be bypassed, not capped. However for the life of me I can't recall why! It was discussed here a very long time ago but I can't find the thread...

Just bypass it, it's really not needed unless you're using it for hard track days. It is however possible to recreate the lines and cooler from Chinese parts if you want to retain it, the coolers were about £20 last time I checked. Original coolers are around £180, if they are still available.

Just had a look on Toyodiy.com and found the following: 90080-31029 - SEAL, OIL(FOR MANUAL TRANSMISSION EXTENSION HOUSING) - €30.95 - Thats the output shaft seal 90080-31032 - *** STD. PART - €9.21 - I *think* this is the selector seal, but it's not entirely clear from the picture The likes of Chris Wilson, Whifbitz, etc will likely have these in stock so best to contact them. For the selector seal it simply needs to be pushed into place over the top of the existing one. Since the selector and prop will need to come out you might as well do them both. Again CW, Whifbitz or others will be familiar with this, so best to ask them for confirmation if you order parts from them

Oil leaks at the back of the v160 are most commonly caused by the shifter seal not the output shaft seal. They are very tricky to replace so the tried and tested workaround is to have a 2nd one pushed over the top. My old one had that done 10 years ago and it's not leaked since.

Little bit of a brown trouser moment there! IMO that is completely the other drivers fault, they appeared to be off line through the previous corner and possibly on a cool down lap, they should have keep their mirrors checked...

I've not been online here much due to getting engaged, moving house and a promotion at work, but thought that it might be worth updating this thread... It's been over 2.5 years since the car was on the road and it's been pretty smooth sailing. The only issue I had was the clutch and flywheel needed a swap and a rear wheel bearing needed replacing. I also changed the brakes to "UK" spec ones which was well worth it, other than that I haven't taken a spanner to the car since mid 2011. I'm ashamed to say it hasn't even been serviced since the engine got pulled from the car in the junk yard in 2008. No new oil, plugs, filters, etc. It gets driven every day, starts first time and has never let me down. It gets treated hard, really hard, but the girl just keeps going without complaint. Supra's are seriously tough machines, got to love them

Congrats fella, the car looks great I'm interested in your feedback about the diff swap, have you found the gears noticably longer with the diff being under geared? Do you find it any slower to accelerate? From a techincal perspective it should make a bit of a difference negatively, but it's not always the case when it comes to the seat of the pants feeling