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The mkiv Supra Owners Club

Homer

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Everything posted by Homer

  1. I won't be there early, probably around mid day. I'll be on my own so will be looking for Supra peoples to chat to
  2. Lol, I missed that boat by a good 10 years
  3. It does depend on what Supra I end up buying, but as it stands there's about £3k of easily saleable parts on it, maybe £4k. I can't see anyone in their right mind paying anywhere near that for the car as a whole. Some people seem to prefer the aero's. Not me, especially being follically challenged
  4. Here you go., It's much worse in real life, trust me on that!
  5. The thought crossed my mind Ian, but it's an aero top so not well suited to the track. Plus I don't get time for that sort of shenanigans these days Believe me, it gets driven hard, it spends most of it's time sideways. I wouldn't be happy with it with a home-done spray job, or even a cheap one, plus it needs a lot of work and a TT engine, so it just doesn't make financial sense. Thanks for trying though, I've had this argument with myself all day
  6. I somehow doubt it, this one is bad, really bad! I knew someone would mention the diff That's one thing I will be keeping You're right though, I had a moment of realisation earlier today after a year of dithering and trying to make good. It's just not worth it. The way I see it, I saved the car from the scrap yard in the first place as it was almost a shell when I got it, it's been driven daily for nearly 4 years so I got some decent use from it, now it's time to return it to the state I got it in!
  7. Well the time has come to give up trying to fix up my supra, I've realised it's going to cost many times what it's worth to get it to TT and looking nice. The paint is terrible, there's dents on every panel and the gearbox is faulty. It really is the worse supra in the club, it's got to the point where I'm embarrassed to drive it. So, difficult decision, buy another Supra TT or get something sensible? I think I want to stick with the supra as I hated not having one after I sold my TT6 single.... If anyone knows of any cheap TT's (inc auto's) that have decent bodywork please let me know I think I will end up breaking the current car as the paint is so bad, it'll be worth lots more in parts than as a whole.
  8. I'll be coming along tomorrow, only live down the road now so it'd be rude not too!
  9. CJ (and Jake) - amusing as always back in the old days
  10. Loving your work Facelift lights and indicators and your car will look even better, they make such a difference especially on a black car
  11. They are definitely different, I have the same issue and have not been able to find them separately yet... Will post here if I do.
  12. I happen to have a set of VS spats available. This is another set on my old black car (with OEM skirts) and my silver car with no skirts (which is why it looks a little odd). I only have one shot of them from the rear
  13. Or a fiver for a bleed valve Not the best way to do it, but well, it is cheap!
  14. The jump from 1.0 bar to 1.2 bar is as big as the jump from 0.76 to 1.0 bar IMO. You are only half way there yet H 1.2 bar is when it really comes alive in the jpsec, I never got tired of the 4k rpm kick in the backside
  15. Looks very nice, good choice of colour. Is that the stock Supra Gunmetal?
  16. Good luck Steve, that new clutch looks like a tasty bit of kit
  17. It can be done on axle stands, but I wouldn't recommend it and won't be doing it again! Make sure you have the correct clutch alignment tool, I stuffed up on the first attempt as I had a 6spd one... If you have a two poster, some decent length extension bars and a wobble joint it's not too bad a job provided you have a mate or two to help (or better yet a gearbox jack)
  18. TT is the way to go, but if you do go for an NA the manual is a must in my opinion. Both are very reliable but you should be wary of very low priced TT cars, some are not well looked after and can cost a fortune to fix. The NA's are absolutely bullet proof. Good luck, and always ask on here before buying a car, there's a wealth of knowledge available and many cars are already known to the club
  19. The breakfast baps & coffee were great Dean, thanks from me and Nisha Love the restaurant too, very pretty and in a great countryside location. We'll add some trip advisor feedback
  20. What a fantastic day, great to meet old and new people, really missed being part of the club the past couple of years. The Missus really enjoyed it too and even though 6 months ago she didn't like them she now wants one of her own. Oh dear!! Huge thanks to all those involved in organising and managing the day I have a few hundred pics to go through, but will look at them tomorrow, too knackered now!
  21. Got to the Missus place in Northampton, all set for tomorrow. I even gave the car it's annual wash (but it still looks terrible!)
  22. To replace those pipes, I'm pretty certain the heater matrix has to come out, like dude said. It's a fair bit of work, but it's not as bad as it appears. I did mine in an afternoon, took about 5 hours.
  23. On my current one, since it was (re)built 4 years ago I've only replaced parts I've fitted that turned out to be faulty (wheels, clutch, flywheel and rear wheel bearing). It's never broken down and as for failures of parts it hasn't cost a penny. I'm also a bit naughty as I've never serviced it or changed the oil It's only an NA with an engine from a scrap yard...
  24. The TRD is switchable between 1.5 and 2 way, though most I've seen are 2 way (including mine) You'll need a heavier oil than 75w90, I was recommended 75w140 but there are many options, I asked the same question a couple of months ago: http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/showthread.php?291609-Which-diff-oil-TRD&highlight=trd+diff oil changes would depend on use, but I'd say every 3 years for a road car. I believe the crown and pinion wheels are different on the large casing diff, The diff itself is different too, I believe it to do with the bolt pattern being 12 instead of 10 (or similar ) If you go large casing you'll also need to change one of the driveshaft's and the rear section of the prop Don't take that for gospel though, Nic is one of the guys that really knows about this stuff.
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