Homer

Ooooh, good to know Do you have problems with it being a little too high rpm when at speeds above that (on the track of course )? How is the fuel consumption on the motorway? It looks like it'll be in the 2nd turbo zone in 5th at 100mph so I'm concerned it's going to be putting a lot of long term pressure on the engine and possibly poor mpg.

I'm installing a w58 in my TT and am in two minds what to do about the diff. I have an NA TRD small casing and a UK auto large casing diff (which is already on the car), so am weighing up the best option to go with for the TT The w58 and NA diff are a direct install as the NA one has the small casing. This means I have to replace the UK diff, prop and driveshaft's The w58 and UK diff will be problematic due to the driveshaft length (I'm pretty certain the UK diff has a different bolt pattern and positioning for the prop), but on the plus side I don't need to change the diff and drive shafts I did some calculations on the gear ratio guide and it looks to me the UK diff with 3.769 ratio is going to be a little too tal, but the UK option allows for lower RPM at motorway speeds. Has anyone done this before or have thoughts on the best approach? I'm thinking the NA TRD diff would be the better option, even though it's not going to be able to do 160mph (which is probably a good thing ) w58 with NA TRD diff: w58 with UK auto diff:

Unless you're looking at 600bhp+ there's no real point changing the fuel line, even my old one with the fuel dampner, stock lines, stock rail (with 800c injectors) and stock filter was more than capable to supply enough fuel for at 1.5bar on a T67dbb.

Hi, welcome to the club First it would be a good start to click the link in your own post where it says bpu. This is a quick summary of how it works and why it works, it should answer your question. In theory there's no issue with a 21psi cap set by the SARD ECU, on jspecs the boost is controlled by exhaust restriction (cats), or in BPU a restrictor ring placed between the de-cat pipes. The raised boost cut is just an extra safety measure in case something goes wrong or if you see a big boost spike when the air is much colder and denser (e.g. in winter ). Thor used to do a great little boost cut defender that capped it around 1.4 bar after 3 seconds, but I don't think these are available anymore. I don't know what's around on the market these days but there must be something else more simple than using a chipped ECU....

Thanks mate, that's a good price. I've been sent a few links by members on the forum and the alternators (though not OEM) do seem to be readily available. Not sure why so many people have issues finding them! Sorry for the late replies to PM's, work has been crazy this week and will be for the next month. Progress may slow down a bit on the project sadly, but I'll be tinkering here and there and collecting all the parts. So far I've sourced: - Driver a-pillar cover - Gasket set - Grab handle - Facelift rear lights & looms - OEM Trans tunnel plate - Flywheel - Battery tray & bracket - ECU cover - Starter motor +ve cable - Alternator - Battery +ve terminal - Cam cover bolts & washers - Temp sensor socket - All door card and various dash securing bolts - Auxiliary belt Still lots to find, particularly the manual pedals and clutch master/slave. They are proving to be a bit more difficult to locate. Next big update should be over the weekend if the rain holds off. I hope to visit Dr Jekyll this Sunday to pick up the gearbox, clutch and some other parts so that will be a big step closer once they are here. Then is a "simple" case of fitting it on the driveway... which I hate doing!

This. I've not heard of a back to back comparison before so I'm really interested in the results too.

Thanks Jason, most of the progress is due to Steve, he's far quicker (and knowledgeable) at trouble shooting these sort of issues than me, I'd still be trying to figure out the fuel pump problem right now without his help The club is a great thing and I don't think I contributed much aside from the odd pointers, silly questions and help here and there. I'm overwhelmed by the offers of help and parts on this build (and the last one), people are simply very generous here and I don't take that for granted for a moment. It's a great forum and I've made many life-long friends over the past decade because of it

They're fine in the snow too, so long as you have an LSD and winter tyres. On that note, I really would recommend winter tyre's on any heavy RWD car during the winter period, IMO it should be a legal requirement as it is in most of northern Europe. The difference between winter and summer tyre grip in cold/freezing weather is astonishing.

That's definitely not the one guys. That's one of the other plugs in the bunch of 3 in that section of the loom, the plug we need is black and is different to that. I'll get a picture tomorrow and post it here. Thanks both

Not yet, I need to have another look at the plug in day light tomorrow. I wasn't able to find it yet on Toyodiy

Yeah it does now I checked, added to the order list for tomorrow

Are you sure Adam, that's not listed against the Supra, only the Estima (whatever that is ). I'll take a chance and order it anyway, thanks!

Thanks Mark, it's really not all that bad, just a lot of little things to sort out. The biggest issue now is the trans tunnel mod. We're nearing the end of the electrical issues once the rest of the parts arrive (that's the bit that's most frustrating, sourcing and waiting on parts!). The rest of it is mostly mechanical and that's all quite straightforward. It just needs time, the correct tools, helpful friends and motivation

Edit, missed you update. I have a few spare looms here so might be able to help. Is it the NA or TT variant you need? I assume NA based on the pic.

Yep, that's the one on the jspec ECU. I can't order a repair plug from Toyota for the UK one as it only comes with the loom section and that's £125. Keron doesn't have any either. BTW, I've mailed Keron about most of the parts so I'll let you know what's missing after that. I'll also place an order to Toyota tomorrow for the following: - Cam cover gaskets - Cam cover washers - Cam cover bolts - Temp gauge sender socket (If I can find the damn part number) - Battery terminal & bolt - Trans tunnel plate (If dude doesn't have one) - Clutch cover bolts - Flywheel bolts

Does anyone have the part number for the water temp gauge sender plug, I can't seem to find it on EPC. This is the single wire one that goes into the water feed neck, not the one with two wires (which is for the ECU). TIA

Like I said before it's been more of a pain in some areas, less in others. It's about the level of work I thought it'd need, the time consuming part is fixing other peoples mistakes or poor workmanship, putting it back together is actually quite straightforward Brilliant Shane I don't want to disturb David's project so perhaps you could check with him when it's available. I had a message from Graham earlier who knows a place that makes new replacement alternators for £130, so if your one is going to be a while I'll just buy one of those. Steve can confirm but the part we need is 89570-14240, if you don't have one of those, then 89570-14210 should in theory also work. Let me know what you want to cover costs and I'll send some money.

Good news, Steve fixed it (well worked around it!). It looks like the replacement jspec fuel pump ECU is faulty. It was getting all the correct feeds and signals from the engine loom, but for some reason was not sending a 12v singal to the pump. For now, this has been bypassed but pump ECU needs to be replaced. The car could actually be driven now if we put all the fluids in. The shifter can be fitted albeit a bit bodged (due to the poor welding job it hits the handbrake sensor) so we could select gears. But, we figured it's not worth it as the box needs to be pulled out anyway to covert to manual. Here's a vid to show it running properly for the first time: Not much else to report apart from a long list of parts to buy. We also removed the faulty alternator and found why it was seized, it's cracked through the entire housing so will have to go in the bin This was obviously working when the donor car was delivered, but it looks like it's been dropped during the install as the crack is fresh. Steve also wired in the replacement water temp ECU sensor with the new plug and tidied up the wiring we had to pull out to test the pump system. Parts list from today: - Replacement altenator - Water gauge temp sensor - Cam cover gaskets - New plug for engine bay loom fan relay - Throttle cable for a TT - Positive cable from starter to battery - Trans tunnel plate - Fuel pump ECU (again!) - Line for missing tank vent - Replacement banjo for fuel feed on tank - Battery positive terminal - Washer bottle, pump and feed line - Flywheel bolts - Cam cover washers and bolts - Bracket for resistor pack

So much better than the orange blobs

Thanks mate, I completely forgot to ask you about this. Do you still have ready access to the UK OEM manuals at your work place? Steve will know if this is useful, I don't

A big request for any UK owners out there that still have the stock fuel pump system... If you have time, would anyone be able to post a picture of the fuel pump ECU while it still has the fuel pump socket plugged into it? This is to help try and identify the colours on the wires that go into the fuel pump ECU socket. The more detailed the better. There's a case of beers in it for anyone that can help (That should hopefully get a response from the likes of Pig or Burna )

Thanks guys and especisally Shane for your offer, awesome of you and it will help a hell of a lot Thanks Lee, that is what Steve and I are trying to work out now. I do suspect there is a compatibility issue going on, there's few other explanations. Steve would be the best to reply to this, he's posted a more detailed thread in the tech section tonight. We would like to try a known working jspec ECU (part revision *****-****40 if possible), please let me know if you have one for sale or to borrow for a test.

I know mate, T61's are awesome but this is still a fairly budget build for now. First up I need to get it running, I'll think what to do with it much further down the line Thanks Shane, I'll take the new one, can you PM me with the price please? The engine crane would be a huge help, would it be okay to buy or borrow it, I'd only need it for a week or two maximum

Some good progress today but we ran into problems again with the fuel pump not priming. Steve will create a separate thread about that in Technical as we can't figure out yet what's going on. I need to get another jspec TT fuel ECU to rule out a fault on this one, something very odd is going on with the voltage supply to the pump.... The big job of the day was completed, the engine bay loom was successfully replaced and we were able to fire the engine up and keep it running for longer this time. Everyone likes pictures and vids so here's some from todays work: 1) Stripped down again: 2) The old ABS & TRAC relay box mounted under the headlight, this has started to corrode so it will be moved back into the engine bay 3) Old fuse box and faulty loom ready for removal 4) Yet another hole drilled into the chassis, no protection so it's started to rust. This will be repaired and rust proofed 5) More bad wiring, this is the headlamp wire which was just wrapped around a screw 6) Old loom ready for pulling out. Needed to unbolt and tilt back the main and air con radiator to get it out 7) Loom finally removed, this took over an hour alone! 7) Old relay box with sealant, which was not very effective given the corrosion 8) New loom laid out 9) New loom and fuse box installed, back where it should be 10) ABS/TRAC relay box back where it should be 11) All back in 12) And all bolted back together, for now So, that's it for today. Time to start looking at wiring diagrams and attempt to figure out what's going on with the fuel supply, we've ruled out most of the loom, the pump itself and the fuse box. We think it's either a UK/jspec compatibility issue, fuel pump ECU or something else we've not thought of. Thanks today goes to Steve as always, Hackin' n' Bashin (Adam) for dropping off a free UK rear wheel and a w58 flywheel and Keron for shipping the loom on short notice Nice one guys!

No T78's for me gents, but I appreciate your enthusiasm for trying to sell the package If the weather holds out there should be a big update tomorrow, but sadly it looks like heavy rain most of the day... not exactly recommended conditions for swapping fuse boxes and wiring looms! If the rain holds off I think Steve and I should be able to get it moving under it's own power tomorrow.